cpa7man

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking of removing the oil cooler temperature controlled bypass valve and welding it shut. This would force oil through the cooler even when cold. I'm trying to eliminate the bypass valve as a point of failure. I saw very high oil temps in my last race. I pulled and flushed the cooler yesterday and I'm going to test the bypass valve today.

The potential problem I see is with the oil still cold will I get a drop in oil pressure due to the fact that the cold oil won't pass through the cooler fast enough. The other issue could be that the bypass is active during high rpm operation.

I'm running a Mazda Comp oil pump with racing bearings and all. I know I need to get a larger oil cooler, it's just not in the budget right now.

Rx7carl

Air/Oil cooler I assume. Good to do on a race car for just the reason you pointed out. I knwo someone posted about doing it way back when. Not here though, maybe on the SA22 mailing list? IIRC you remove the bypass valve, install a bolt to block the bypass passage in the cooler and only re-install the cap. Memory is a bit hazy about any more details sorry.

Speed Raycer

That hazy memory is still pretty clear Carl!

Yep, bolt or pipe plug and reinstall the cap is what I've always been told. It's on my to-do list this winter as well.

Feds

Why only on race cars? What is the disadvantage of removing it on street cars?

Feds

Why only on race cars? What is the disadvantage of removing it on street cars?

speedturn

iTrader: (1)

If you remove it on a daily driver street car, it will take longer for your motor to warm up.
Cold motor = bad gas mileage, because a lot of the thermal energy from the burning gasoline is wasted trying to get the metal motor up to operating temperature