Carl Byck

test fit my 16x12s with 24.8x13x16 goodyear slicks My advanced design dampers should be here friday, and then i'll know if there are any issues, but for now they look good.

bcty

those looks sweeeeeeet.. must handle good driving around town

Carl Byck

another

reboot

clayne

That is phat.

DamonB

If you were to drive into a lake I bet it would float

Falcoms

Speaking of sliks, I am wondering, is the 2nd Gen. suspension equip. able to handle OE size slicks or does it need to be built up a bit?

T_Racer

iTrader: (1)

Those look really good. They look identical to the ones on our 7. I believe ours are Real, what brand are those.

Damon, I don't know about floating, but they will steam roll cones. We are running 16 X 12 on our 1st gen. We were at an autocross last summer. Really hot so the cones were really soft and there was a offset left right right off the start line. I was watching my buddy leave the line and on the left hander, the driver left tire hit the cone. instead of the cone shooting out of the box, the tire just steam rolled it. We were all amazed at watching the cone pop back up behind the tire, about an inch out of place. We were trying to figure out how to do this on purpose to shave some time, but haven't gotten it down yet.

Travis R

Nice!

in2twins

The rims are Real Racing, about 250.00 a piece, they took 8 weeks to get. they are light, the 16x12 was ~15lbs, the slicks are 22.5lbs, so about a 10lb reduction in weight over a 225-50-16, and a stock rim. The weak link when using slicks road racing are the wheel bearings, I have custom machined hubs that allow me to service the bearings, the stockers are not servicable. The next weak link are the axles, with ~500hp and 13" slicks I will be using custom chrome moly axles as well. one thing about the Real wheels is that they are not hubcentric. For this reason, I ordered my front rims with an offset to allow me to add a custom hubcentric spacer. This will be machined to mate the TII hub to the Real wheel center bore. Most likely I will be widening the Tripoint kit about 1.5" all the way around so that I can tuck the 13" tires inside and have some more flexibilty with ride height. I prefer this solution to the myriad of suspension mods that 25BP, and Steve O'Blenes have done to fit 12" tires. I have to say thank you to 25BP, talking to him about the pitfalls of the very large front tire helped me alot.
Carl

M's

carl, can you please post some pics of your custom hubs. thanks

gnx7

iTrader: (10)

Spectacular Carl. You have researched this to the nth level and it appears to have paid off.

I just hope that if/when you need to upgrade your front brakes that you aren't limited with the 16" rim. That car looks frickin' wicked now. That hot pink paint scheme you talked about should look great. .

Keep us posted... I wonder what that sucker will weigh?

I have another T2 rear end if you need a spare from an '87 model. Rebuildable clutch pack style.

I'm doing a little AP Racing brake research right now for my FD project.

-Mark

SoloIIdrift

Wow that looks so sweet! I'm thinking about the same kit... how hard was it to mold the tripoint kit?

What model of real wheels are those, I've been on there site and I'm trying to figure it out. Thanks

in2twins

The wheels are PRO-6, the price is right, the quality is ok, they have pretty sharp edges on the rim halves, and some other minor defects. The Tripoint kit is definitely a project, even the front "bolt on" fenders had to be modified. by the time you buy the kit, wheel, tires, install, and paint, you can expect to spend ~6-8000.00 minimum. So you need to be sure you are going to utilize all that tire. In my case it was the only way to actually harness ~500hp on the road course. If you are going to do say 275-40-17s in the rear I would say use flairs in the back, and Corksport fenders in the front. That would be a couple thousand bucks instead of many thousands. My .02
Can you tell I am a little jaded by the experience... I would probably do it again, but it is alot of work, and a large investment. If you do it all yourself, the kit is ~1500.00, wheels are ~1200.00, used slicks 400.00, you still have paint, and a clutch to deal with. Moulding the rears is doable if you have some body work experience, but to do a good job, I would say it is best left to a pro. Carl

tinner

iTrader: (2)

Looks awesome, where are you getting the chromoly halfshafts from?

in2twins

I am still sourcing the 1/2 shafts, I am talking to Summit, and some local shops. They are available from the RX7store I believe, but they are pricey.

torean

that looks like a monster....

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

my god.

SoloIIdrift

Are there any pitfalls to running a 15X10 rim and 10 inch tire? I assume you are refering to the extra wheel bearing stress and making it phyiscally fit, correct?

in2twins

I think alot of Solo guys run 15x10, you can also run a 15x8 with a cantilever slick. The 15" will allow you tto lower the car w/out loosing suspension travel, and it will help spool the turbo faster if you are using one. The pitfalls for 25bp were fitment related, and I believe he took a difficult path of suspension mods to overcome them.

88IntegraLS

$$

nathantheman

fack! if your gonna do it right.......

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

SWEET!!! I have been waiting for an update for too long. Carl you need to win the loto so you can finish that thing faster

peejay

Daddy likes.

Now, time to start making fender flares like what are on John Coffey's 240Z, so I can get similar badassedness in a 1st-gen.

- Pete (room for those 12" rotors, donchaknow)

PwRFreaK

looks great i love to see a 7 with some fatty's out back and all around in your case.