Power FC Which temp sensor?
Which temp sensor?
PFC seem to be very slow to read water temp. What unit's it display temps in?
By the time car is all warmed up - it could show 20-30. Then I shutdown car, start up again, warm up and see little increase.
59 is a top what I see. Air temp being very close at 45. Air temp follows water temp very closely.
It's all with ambient temperature around 0 degree Celsium..
Which temp sensor does it use? What is the best way to check if all my sensors operate properly using PFC?
By the time car is all warmed up - it could show 20-30. Then I shutdown car, start up again, warm up and see little increase.
59 is a top what I see. Air temp being very close at 45. Air temp follows water temp very closely.
It's all with ambient temperature around 0 degree Celsium..
Which temp sensor does it use? What is the best way to check if all my sensors operate properly using PFC?
There is an air temp sensor and a water temp sensor and they both display in celsius.
The water temp sensor and fuel temp sensor are the same sensor with different seals. They both have the same style green color connector. Both of which are about the same length and can be erroneously put on the wrong sensor since they are close enough to do it.
Pull off the UIM, and pull the FTS connector. On the ETC-Sensor screen, it will tell which connector it is by showing a fault. If it show FTS, then they are correct.
If correct, then maybe your WTS is going bad. The Mazda manual shows how to test the sensors.
The water temp sensor and fuel temp sensor are the same sensor with different seals. They both have the same style green color connector. Both of which are about the same length and can be erroneously put on the wrong sensor since they are close enough to do it.
Pull off the UIM, and pull the FTS connector. On the ETC-Sensor screen, it will tell which connector it is by showing a fault. If it show FTS, then they are correct.
If correct, then maybe your WTS is going bad. The Mazda manual shows how to test the sensors.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=18-8400-NF02 or call ray crowe
just get another one if it turns out that you have it hooked up correctly. mine was reading 40-50 degrees C too low. a friend of mine had one that was reading 10-15 C too high. when I bought a new one it fixed it immediately.
just get another one if it turns out that you have it hooked up correctly. mine was reading 40-50 degrees C too low. a friend of mine had one that was reading 10-15 C too high. when I bought a new one it fixed it immediately.
I had wiring re-wrapped and wrapped wrong connector leads into WT position off harness... Now I wonder if I can get it switched without removing UIM. I can always swap pins at ECU, but it just not right..
Had to remove UIM for that. Now I have other question about OMP..
My oil lines seems to be dry and clear. I replaced nozzles with good one and installed new lines. Car only seen maybe 3-4 "warmup" idle sessions since then, but I didn't get any oil?!
How PFC control OMP? Voltages were OK, there was no errors in FC-Edit. Maybe because of "cold" water PFC didn't activate oil pump? I would think it should do it anyway.
I know that OMP working, it was spraying oil all over place before (bad nozzle).
How do I check it while UIM off? I can't even see oil lines when UIM will be on.
Thanks!
My oil lines seems to be dry and clear. I replaced nozzles with good one and installed new lines. Car only seen maybe 3-4 "warmup" idle sessions since then, but I didn't get any oil?!
How PFC control OMP? Voltages were OK, there was no errors in FC-Edit. Maybe because of "cold" water PFC didn't activate oil pump? I would think it should do it anyway.
I know that OMP working, it was spraying oil all over place before (bad nozzle).
How do I check it while UIM off? I can't even see oil lines when UIM will be on.
Thanks!
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No answer for your question.
BUT: since the oil moves very slowly through the lines do the following for new lines..
Put everything back together.
Add premix to your full tank of gas for safety.
Using the DL bump up the low temp setting to a high value in the Oiler vs Water Temp table.
Drive for about 100 mile, take the UIM off for oil flow check. Go from there.
BUT: since the oil moves very slowly through the lines do the following for new lines..
Put everything back together.
Add premix to your full tank of gas for safety.
Using the DL bump up the low temp setting to a high value in the Oiler vs Water Temp table.
Drive for about 100 mile, take the UIM off for oil flow check. Go from there.
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The1Sun
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