rotary-guy

iTrader: (24)

ok, so i have finially got my set up done, the problem is i did a test fire just to check everything out and the car started and idled some what with 8 vaccume leaks, maybe ran it for 30 sec if that. shut it off, got lunch and went and got vaccume caps and vaccume hose, tighted my alt belt, added coolent, and capped any unused vaccume ports. i went to start it up again and let it run for a while so i could do more checks and what not but the damn thing would not and will not start up again. kinda getting frustrating, i have fuel and spark but no serious firing happens, maybe a back fire every once in a while. any ideas on this problem would be VERY helpfull. heres the set up

1989 TII
garrett gt40 turbo
twin tial 44mm wastgates
banzai racing PFC to s5 patch harness with resestors added
720cc primarys, 1600cc secondarys
a1000 fuel pump and regluater, -10 line from tank to pump,-8line from pump to y-block, and -6 from y-block to rails, regulater and back to tank.
FD UIM
GM 3-bar map sensor

i loaded the map banzai sent me also.
if there is any other info you might need to help me solve this please feel free to ask.

thanks guys

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you did check to see if it's flooded right

prjct87rx7

iTrader: (7)

sounds like fouled plugs

rotary-guy

iTrader: (24)

oh it was deffentily flooded, the plugs are brand new, i can try another set of new plugs though, iv deflooded the motor like crazy

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

What is your base fuel pressure?
How long does the fuel system hold pressure after you turn the key off?
What does the commander read for boost when the key is in the "on" position but not running?
What are your TPS (VTA1 & VTA2) readings on the sensor screen?

rotary-guy

iTrader: (24)

base fuel= 38-40 psi if pump is runing full w/ regulater backed all the way off
the fuel system holds no pressure once power to pump is off
boost reading with key on = +.01 kg/cm2
tps vta1=.60v, vta2=1.34v

hope that helps

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Base pressure was set with the key on car not running, right?

The fuel system should hold pressure and slowly bleed down over 15-20 min.

This could be an indicator that you have an injector stuck open, or it could be the FPR has a piece of debris holding it open, or the pump could be bleeding back into the tank.

Out of those only the injector malfunction would be causing your current problem. Check your injectors make sure each one clicks when 12v and ground are supplied.

The very first thing I would do is change your spark plugs. You started the car and shut it down before it reached operating temp. You had a bunch of vacuum leaks, so the FPR was most likely providing higher pressure then it normally would, as it was not seeing as much vacuum as it should. The base maps are set up with a healthy amount of fuel in the water temp correction screens, this needs to be adjusted by the user as every car requires different settings to run through the cold start just right. I see you are in WA if the weather is anything like it is here then the temps are in the 20's this means the PFC is looking at the -10C & 0C water temp correction values, on initial start up, there is a lot of fuel being added for these temps.