Street ported, single turbo, stock 550 cc primaries, stock ignition, Idle air control valve unplugged, emmissions removed, hot start solenoid removed No cats 3" exhaust.

I have a new engine with a PFC/dataloggit/LC-1 and the setup above.
The car seems to be injecting alot of fuel during cranking. The [fuel] voltage on the commander shows 3.96. is this too high? I have o2 sensor feedback turned OFF, i have not made any changes to any of the maps on the PFC.

I have spark, the injectors aren't stuck open. Map sensor is fine and connected.

With my setup should i adjust the timing or fuel maps for gettting my car started? It seems to keep flooding out. Will the o2 feedback (off) effect this?

 

S1: stock 550 cc primaries.
Q1: Which secondaries?

S2: stock ignition.
A2: not good enough! You need better plug wires, and an ignition amp.

S3: The car seems to be injecting alot of fuel during cranking.
A3: Maybe bad injector setup.

S4: The [fuel] voltage on the commander shows 3.96. is this too high?
A4: That is the fuel temperature which the PFC manual tells you.
The Mazda manual gives the voltgae range per temperature range. The senor is the same used by the PFC to show watre temperature. Thus it has the same voltage to temp range.

The car should start with the PFC base mod map with minimal chnages.

 

You should PM check about buying his tuning notes, WELL WORTH THE MONEY

 

i got the car started lastnight after i did the deflood, put a nice big battery in and changed the plugs.. I do have upgraded plug wires, don't have an ignition amp yet.. right now im running the stock fuel system. 550 primaries/ 850 secondaries, stock fuel pump and everything. at this point i just want the car drivable and i wont be running much boost until i upgrade the fuel system. the car is running very rich right now. prob because i have 02 sensor feedback off and havent done anything to the maps or timing

 

the car should run fine during cruising without an ignition amp right?

Also my idle is bouncing up and down from 600-900 rpms is this due to having the ICS/bac/IAC whatever you wanna call it disconnected? with my butterfly adjustments all the way closed the idle air screw has to be out like 8 turns instead of a half a turn... ???

 

With a single turbo and no air pump forcing air into the exhaust before the O2 sensor, the O2 F/B Cntl has to be off.

Idle is rich because you have not tuned it. Get in there with the commander and do it. So easy a caveman can do it!

 

The throttle adjusting screw (TAS) is the main idle speed adjustment. The
air adjusting screw (AAS) is for fine idle speed adjustment. If you would experiment with the AAS, you would discover that after opening it about 6-7 turns, idle speed does not increase any more. Thus you open it about 3 turns and then use the TAS to adjust to the speed you want.

If you removed the plug to the ISC solenoid or remove the ISC solenoid, then the PFC can not control idle speed. You now have to go to manual idle speed control.
Find my posts on it. Better get my tuning notes.

 

If i was u I would PM cewrx7r1 (Chuck) about buying his notes, it would be the best thing you did for your car

It is a small price for the wealth of information in his note package.

 

yeah i PMed him about the notes about a week ago, i figured i should get the car starting before i worry about getting it tuned but i suppose i should go ahead and get the notes now so if i do get it running again i can start on it right then