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Power FC My Fix for the power FC/AC problem..

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Old Sep 12, 2003 | 02:22 AM
  #26  
jpandes's Avatar
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From: San Francisco, CA
Thanks for telling me about this trick David. You may have saved my motor.
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Old Sep 12, 2003 | 10:22 PM
  #27  
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From: tx
check to see if you have too much or not enough freon. when my freon was overcharged, no of my settings worked. when i released the freon, now every settings work. (at least in the half settings anyways)
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Old Sep 12, 2003 | 10:50 PM
  #28  
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From: Buckhead
Originally posted by jpandes
Thanks for telling me about this trick David. You may have saved my motor.
looks like you owe me lunch again!! j/k...

what happened? How is the car running? You almost over heat?
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Old Sep 13, 2003 | 06:43 PM
  #29  
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From: San Francisco, CA
Originally posted by ZeroBanger
looks like you owe me lunch again!! j/k...

what happened? How is the car running? You almost over heat?
The car runs great now. I ended up buying and installing a Koyo rad. Temps are all good now. But w/o your fan mod trick I might not have made it to this point.

Now I am working on getting my wideband to talk to my datalogit so that I can fine tune your maps.

I do owe you lunch again...
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Old Sep 13, 2003 | 07:41 PM
  #30  
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From: Buckhead
im kiddin' about lunch. im just confused how the radiator could lower your water temps.
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Old Sep 15, 2003 | 01:17 PM
  #31  
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From: San Francisco, CA
Originally posted by ZeroBanger
im kiddin' about lunch. im just confused how the radiator could lower your water temps.
Well, if what I read on another thread: Hot Summer/Hot Temps is correct, my radiator may have gotten clogged up with engine sealant from my rebuild, insulating the core from within.

Oh yeah, you were right about the fitmet issues. The Installation was pain in the ***.

Last edited by jpandes; Sep 15, 2003 at 01:19 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2003 | 09:13 PM
  #32  
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From: Buckhead
I hope someone can answer this. My car is a 94, I tried to by pass the ECU by following these instructions:

Cut the two wires at ECU terminals 1L(Y/B wire) and 1E(V wire). This is the bottom connector with 11 pin columns. 1L is the center pin opposite the connector lock tap. 1E is third from one end. Connect the harness side of them together thus bypassing the ECU. Leave the ECU side open. I placed snap-in connectors on all four wire ends so that they could be easily reconnected back to stock.

When I did this and turned on my car, nothing changed. My ecu still registered the AC in position 1 and it blew cold. 2, 3, 4 did not register and was hot air.

I noticed the wire did not look to be voilet, it was kinda blue with a pink stripe, but it was 3rd from the right on the top..or 9 from the left on the top (the opposite side of the yellow with black stripe).

If anyone has any other suggestions I would appreciate it, thanks.

BTW..If I plug my stock ECU in , it works fine on all 4.
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