Power FC interpreting commander, starting problem
interpreting commander, starting problem
don't know where to place this thread, here or third gen.
cant start, trailing plugs get saturated wet, bench tested resistance of coils, crank angle sensors, continuity from igniter to coils. checked continuity to grounds from 4a-4c. Installed stock ecu same result wet trailing plugs, no codes. compression fine.
Reinstalled PFC and commander. sensor check numbers and indicator buttons appear operate normally, no highlights. water and air temps accurate. Commander maps look normal. cant check the INJ because all 100's, but duties look normal. Seems like a quality of spark issue.
Of question is Monitor function: When starting, should Leading plugs fires at 7 degrees and trailing at 1? nNew Battery voltage at 12.7 drops to 9.8v. are these normal enough?
Waiting for helper to check for spark quality which I think will be poor and also trying to find easy test for ignitor.
taking suggestions of solutiions, other items to check or r&r, I have a spare starter, though the old one turns fast and strong. if it matters the 40A fuses have some corrosion. thanks.
cant start, trailing plugs get saturated wet, bench tested resistance of coils, crank angle sensors, continuity from igniter to coils. checked continuity to grounds from 4a-4c. Installed stock ecu same result wet trailing plugs, no codes. compression fine.
Reinstalled PFC and commander. sensor check numbers and indicator buttons appear operate normally, no highlights. water and air temps accurate. Commander maps look normal. cant check the INJ because all 100's, but duties look normal. Seems like a quality of spark issue.
Of question is Monitor function: When starting, should Leading plugs fires at 7 degrees and trailing at 1? nNew Battery voltage at 12.7 drops to 9.8v. are these normal enough?
Waiting for helper to check for spark quality which I think will be poor and also trying to find easy test for ignitor.
taking suggestions of solutiions, other items to check or r&r, I have a spare starter, though the old one turns fast and strong. if it matters the 40A fuses have some corrosion. thanks.
Honestly, it sounds like you need to do a compression test. Banzai Racing Compression Test
did a quick and dirty compression test with finger over spark plug hole earlier. putt, putt, putt, good compression. putt, sworsh = broken seal. I'll check again when I check for strength of spark.
Shouldn't I be able to start with just leading plugs?
tried checking voltage outputs at ignitor with digital multimeter, got a 2v bounce on leadings but only when it wanted to almost start. Got 0v on rear trailing.
I think the crank angle sensors check out from FSM page F-26,27.
started a thread in 3rd gen specific about how quickly one could get codes off a stock ecu. I wasn't getting any though I have no aws, egr.
Shouldn't I be able to start with just leading plugs?
tried checking voltage outputs at ignitor with digital multimeter, got a 2v bounce on leadings but only when it wanted to almost start. Got 0v on rear trailing.
I think the crank angle sensors check out from FSM page F-26,27.
started a thread in 3rd gen specific about how quickly one could get codes off a stock ecu. I wasn't getting any though I have no aws, egr.
spark is jumping over an inch on both trailings. trailing plugs were wet. compression is a strong swosh, swosh, swosh both rotors.
I don't do compression test often. Just recall that the patterns are not steady with a broken apex seal.
is leading firing at +7 degrees and trailing +1 degree normal while cranking?
i'm trying the stock ecu again to try to get some codes.
I don't do compression test often. Just recall that the patterns are not steady with a broken apex seal.
is leading firing at +7 degrees and trailing +1 degree normal while cranking?
i'm trying the stock ecu again to try to get some codes.
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, North Mexico
Try pouring some 2cycle fluid down your intake manifold via the brake booster port on the UIM and if it turns on, most likely you have low compression and in need of a rebuild. Make sure you have a strong battery. Good Luck
it was fouled saturated trailing plugs.
Has anyone done a write up on observed normal pfc operations from the commander? I pieced some info together through search of pfc sensor check. Some had posted pics of their commander in various states which was helpful too.
didn't find any info about what was normal firing when cranking. I take it a 7 degrees leading and 1 degree trailing is probably normal for a stock car. Maybe its stored on the map for starting rpms'.
Has anyone done a write up on observed normal pfc operations from the commander? I pieced some info together through search of pfc sensor check. Some had posted pics of their commander in various states which was helpful too.
didn't find any info about what was normal firing when cranking. I take it a 7 degrees leading and 1 degree trailing is probably normal for a stock car. Maybe its stored on the map for starting rpms'.
If you look at the maps, the initial starting point is at P row 10 and N column 1.
As the cranking revs increase, timing moves to the right to higher N columns, and vacumm increase to lower P rows. Then the engine starts somewhere and the revs increase.
If you ever look at real time IGL/IGT for idle, they do not match the map.
The PFC only runs the idle timing seen in the maps when the idle speed function is turned off which deactivates the ISC system.
For most PFC knowledge, the PFC yahoo group by contacting arghx.
As the cranking revs increase, timing moves to the right to higher N columns, and vacumm increase to lower P rows. Then the engine starts somewhere and the revs increase.
If you ever look at real time IGL/IGT for idle, they do not match the map.
The PFC only runs the idle timing seen in the maps when the idle speed function is turned off which deactivates the ISC system.
For most PFC knowledge, the PFC yahoo group by contacting arghx.
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alphawolff
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