Power FC Installed pfc ,hard start , idles like ....
Installed pfc ,hard start , idles like ....
Hi there I have a 93 r1 model
Mods are
Emission removed
Emission related wires are removed from original harness
550 pri 1300 sec
Fmic
Non sequential set up
Air pump removed
We've just install the pfc with a map loaded by banzai for the mods above ,the car started up with a lot of cranking and the gas pedal to the floor .. The car holds idle and runs but idle like crap . Idles like it running on one rotor I have spark on all four plugs and replaced with new plugs. Fuel is there also .
The first time we crank the motor over with the pfc installed the idle control valve made noise so we disconnected it got it to start but the motor shakes idle rpm is smooth ,motor just shaky and no power through the first 1000 rpm .didn't want to take it any higher than that . Is this part of idle learning process ? Or is there some sort of problem .. Also the knock sensor shows there are some knocking at idle . Pfc shows it's going up half of the first bar while idling .. Any suggestion will be appreciated thank you
Mods are
Emission removed
Emission related wires are removed from original harness
550 pri 1300 sec
Fmic
Non sequential set up
Air pump removed
We've just install the pfc with a map loaded by banzai for the mods above ,the car started up with a lot of cranking and the gas pedal to the floor .. The car holds idle and runs but idle like crap . Idles like it running on one rotor I have spark on all four plugs and replaced with new plugs. Fuel is there also .
The first time we crank the motor over with the pfc installed the idle control valve made noise so we disconnected it got it to start but the motor shakes idle rpm is smooth ,motor just shaky and no power through the first 1000 rpm .didn't want to take it any higher than that . Is this part of idle learning process ? Or is there some sort of problem .. Also the knock sensor shows there are some knocking at idle . Pfc shows it's going up half of the first bar while idling .. Any suggestion will be appreciated thank you
The knock bar does not mean anything, press the up arrow to see the real number value.
What is the boost reading with the key on and car not running? What is the boost reading with the car idling?
What is the boost reading with the key on and car not running? What is the boost reading with the car idling?
Thanks banzai with the quick reply the boost pressure is reading -27 to -30 with the key at on position. And with the car on it's at -330 -331 some where Around there . Ill probably check the wiring again... It keeps flooding the only way it'll start is if I pull the egi fuse crank it for a while .plug it back in and crank it while feathering the gas pedal then it'll start
I think you might be right one might be stuck but I cant quite hear it with the shop running all the machines I'll take off the intake manifold and check it out later on . Ill keep you updated thanks
Yep no vacuum leak idles not haunting .motor just shakes .if I'm sitting it he car it sounds like a helicopter is above me . Injectors a're not stuck they all click when grounded and add power to ... would bad ecu ground cause this ?
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I have fuel spark and compression .. I think it's running too rich all injectors click so they arnt stuck .. Are the primary injectors suppose to be set at 100 % percent on the pfc ?
Of course 550cc are supposed to be at 100%. If you think it is the map that is the issue just reset it to the factory default. Pretty simple just "initialize all" and turn the key off and back on. Then you can turn off the twins and set the secondaries to 1300cc. You will lose all the lower fan setting and the dyno tuned map, but if you think it is the issue, then it does not really matter.
However I use this same base map for every 550/1300 cc set up and the cars run near perfect with very little manipulation.
You sure you have the injector connectors on the correct injectors? I have been seeing this a lot lately with DIY built cars that have been shipped to the shop because the owners can't get the cars running/drivable.
However I use this same base map for every 550/1300 cc set up and the cars run near perfect with very little manipulation.
You sure you have the injector connectors on the correct injectors? I have been seeing this a lot lately with DIY built cars that have been shipped to the shop because the owners can't get the cars running/drivable.
Wheeeew after a long day of checking wire colors too see if I have all the injectors plugged in the right spot I am happy to say that I didn't mess up on the wiring , but what I'm embarrassed to say is that I I DiD pinch the o ring on the front secondary injector ...=\ even tho the injectors were clicking giving me symptoms of injector that are not stock open it was leaking once the fuel pump primed .... ( should have been pulled off the fuel rail to test ) thanks for all the advice and info to all those that helped . Much appreciated . Now it time to install everything back on and see if she will run ,and not run into any minor mistakes .. Thanks guys
Yealp everything is fine now starts up and idling perfectly. But it was getting late so we closed up shop .wont open till Monday. By the way banzai with the current map on the ecu what's safe boost on psi .ots currently set at 10 -12 but I'm just making sure thanks
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