allrotorfd

iTrader: (1)

I plan on getting the Innovate LC-1 kit pretty soon, so I was reading a little about it and I saw this post:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...0&postcount=21
about how moisture during startup is the biggest thing that kills sensors...

I don't really want to put a switch inside the car and manually turn on the wideband after the car is on. Has anyone tried putting some kind of delay on the turn-on wire so it doesn't turn on till x amount of time after the car is on?

I came across this and it looked interesting:
http://www.davidnavone.com/amp.html
The N-66A seems like it would work.

Only problem is that it would somehow need to be tied into something that would be powered only when the car is actually started, that way the timer starts once the car is actually running.

-Mike

Railgun

If you start it instead of waiting for the O2 to warm up I think you'll be ok.

Aeka GSR

iTrader: (4)

i myself have just been turning the car on without waiting for the sensor to warm up, so far so good after 7 months as a daily driver.

mjw

iTrader: (1)

I agree with the post above, I had an LM-1 for over a year with no problems, now I have the LC-1. My sensor starts to warm up as soon as the ignition is turned to the 'on' position and I haven't had a problem. I think some of it depends on your local climate and where you park the car, myself being in SoCal and parking in a garage I don't see much moisture build up in the exhaust.

EFS.O

Same here...

allrotorfd

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input guys, looks like I won’t need anything fancy then.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

I do not believe this theory about the ceramic heating instantly, and then the moisture of starting combustion cracking it.

More likely due to just being the cheap $50 sensor. Maybe they are overdriving the heater for this application and thus is overheated beyound what it was designed for.

Why doesn't it happen to other heated sensors that are stock components on cars?

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

^good point Chuck.

But I believe I did loose one sensor in this way(at least that is what I attributed it to)

I think I had let the sensor warm up as I paused to talk or was working on something, and then cold cranked the car after a half a minute or so.

Found out after tinkering with bad (high) AFRs that the ceramic inside the sensor was cracked ( I could hear it rattle)



I think this would be a great question to ask Klaus, if they are overdriving the sensor to force it to heat up quickly, as opposed to having the sensor know when the car is running and make this a stipulation of operation.

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

ive had a lm-1 in my car for over a year. i have the sensor mounted at the 12'oclock position about 10-12" after my turbo. its wired up with my ciggiret ligher so its off while cranking, then once its started the lm-1 comes on. no problems to date. i daily drove this to work last year, 65+ miles a day for work alone.