My friend bought the power fc and we need to know if we need the datalogit to tune. He bought the fc from SR and they said it would be pretuned for his mods. Well for some reason it doesn't seemed to be tuned at all. If he gets into boost at all he gets lots of knock. We used the inj map adjustment and tried richening it up but it doesn't seem to help. Do we need to get the datalogit or should we be able to tune with just the commander? Just in case anybody needs to know his mods are: single t60, sotck injectors, cosmo fuel pump, 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat), rats nest removed, stock map sensor (but he has a msd 3 bar lying around), pettit cool charge 3 intercooler, aluminum 3 core radiator, and I think thas about it. So if anybody can help us out that woulb be great.

 

How much is a lot of knock? Value please?
Do you have a wideband 02 sensor?

You should be seeing changes in you AFR by changing the values in the INJ map. You do not need the datalogit to tune the motor. You can change you timing and injection by the 20x20 grids in the commander.

This thread is going on right now and may help
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/engine-pinging-but-does-not-show-wideband-358253/

I know others have posted tuning tips and experiences, you may have to search for those.

 

By a lot of knock I mean it's over 80 on the pfc commander and very audible. We have retarded the timing and richened it up a lot and it's still the same.

 

Too many questions need to be asked to help you guys. Boost? Fuel pressure? plugs? etc, etc?

Suggest you find someone local or I predict a blown motor. Ray's pretuned maps are not very good, they simply cannot predict how your motor combo flows or what fuel pressure you are running so be very careful. I recall their timing being conservative and their fuel pig rich if you tell them single turbo. It won't make up for low fuel pressure though.

If you guys can get a WB and perhaps a Datalogit, confirm fuel pressure is not falling off, and gets someone to assist you ... may be able to save that motor.

 

Make sure you wiring harness to the three coils is correctly hooked up.
Front coil = white connector, close to the nose of the car.
Middle coil = black
Rear coil = blue, close to the firewall



Also make sure that the correct plug wires go to the correct plugs.
Middle coil to the leading (lower plugs)
Front and rear coils to upper(trailing plugs)

 

I am going to check out the wiring for the coil packs and the plugs when I get off work today, you are the second person to suggest that, thanks for the info. We don't have anyway to adjust the fuel pressure, shoould we get an adjustable fpr? I'll hook up my fuel pressure tester today and see what the pressure is at. How much pressure should we be looking for?

 

As per Mazda:

28 to 32 psi with engine idleing.
36 to 38 psi at zero boost, or engine not running but FP running

On boost psi = (36 to 38) + boost psi

Thus for 12psi boost it should read between 48 and 50 psi.

WIth the gas return line from the FP to the tank closed off, engine not running, and pump running, 71 to 107 psi.

 

It was the wiring for the coil packs, holy **** the car is fast. Knock value of under 20 all the way to redline. Set up an appointment for tuning tomorrow morning. What should redline be on this setup? Thanks for all of the help guys I greatly appreciate it.

 

If the engine was set up for high rpms and dynamically balanced, you could pull past 8500 rpm. If normal rebuild and dynamically balanced, 8500. Normal rebuild, 8000.

In reality it depends on the porting and torque curve. Ported engines move the torque up the rpm band thus making the higher revs more useful.
Mine was normal rebuild with improved oiling and dyamically balance but my porting is almost stock. I shift between 7500 and 8000 with the rev limiter set at 8500.