Power FC Few simple PowerFC questions
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Few simple PowerFC questions
Ok i have my powerfc now so im going to brave installing it myself, i only have a ported engine and cat-back so i would of thought the base maps would of been fine (?)
Anyway reading the instructions i just want to clarify 2 things.
Can i completely remove the old ecu (never looked at this so is it just the harness that connects to the stock ecu or are there other connectors which need to remain?) Or can i completely remove the stock ecu when the powerfc is fitted??
And secondly, looking at the learning cycle instruction it says after 10 mins turn on rear demistor, then after 10 more mins turn on the air con.
#1 do i turn the demistor off then the air con on, or leave them both running together??
#2 Does it matter how high the fans are running on the air con, or should i whack the temperature down and fans all the way up??
Also, is there any wires that need to be cut on a stock jap harness? I've seen mentionioned about 4 wires that need cutting, is this for the american domestic market only??? My car is a Jap import
Or do these wires only need to be cut if you have removed the air con??
Thanks
Ryan
Anyway reading the instructions i just want to clarify 2 things.
Can i completely remove the old ecu (never looked at this so is it just the harness that connects to the stock ecu or are there other connectors which need to remain?) Or can i completely remove the stock ecu when the powerfc is fitted??
And secondly, looking at the learning cycle instruction it says after 10 mins turn on rear demistor, then after 10 more mins turn on the air con.
#1 do i turn the demistor off then the air con on, or leave them both running together??
#2 Does it matter how high the fans are running on the air con, or should i whack the temperature down and fans all the way up??
Also, is there any wires that need to be cut on a stock jap harness? I've seen mentionioned about 4 wires that need cutting, is this for the american domestic market only??? My car is a Jap import
Or do these wires only need to be cut if you have removed the air con??
Thanks
Ryan
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"Can i completely remove the old ecu (never looked at this so is it just the harness that connects to the stock ecu or are there other connectors which need to remain?) Or can i completely remove the stock ecu when the powerfc is fitted??)
You just remove the 4 connectors from the stock ECU and plug them into the new ECU. Some PFCs also require you to cut some wires. The ones from SR come with the pins cut internally. Just follow the instructions.
"And secondly, looking at the learning cycle instruction it says after 10 mins turn on rear demistor, then after 10 more mins turn on the air con."
There are three idle conditions (1) normal with no A/C or electrical load(fans), (2) electrical load such as driving lights or fan on 3 or 4, (3) A/C.
You most likely will have to help adjust the idle by manually reducing it by one of the two screws.
You just remove the 4 connectors from the stock ECU and plug them into the new ECU. Some PFCs also require you to cut some wires. The ones from SR come with the pins cut internally. Just follow the instructions.
"And secondly, looking at the learning cycle instruction it says after 10 mins turn on rear demistor, then after 10 more mins turn on the air con."
There are three idle conditions (1) normal with no A/C or electrical load(fans), (2) electrical load such as driving lights or fan on 3 or 4, (3) A/C.
You most likely will have to help adjust the idle by manually reducing it by one of the two screws.
#5
It is simply a case of unplugging the old ECU and plugging the new one in to fit it. If the ECU has never been out before you may find the connections are less than keen to come apart, but beyond that it is straight forward.
You'll find that even after the learning cycle the idle is rubbish, over the next month it may or may not learn to behave itself (it's a feature).
Don't assume that the base map is OK. On most cars it will be fine, but not all, I've had to dump huge amounts of fuel into the map just to make it safe in the past. The base map will be OK for cruise, but I wouldn't trust it under WOT until you've got a wideband on it.
You'll find that even after the learning cycle the idle is rubbish, over the next month it may or may not learn to behave itself (it's a feature).
Don't assume that the base map is OK. On most cars it will be fine, but not all, I've had to dump huge amounts of fuel into the map just to make it safe in the past. The base map will be OK for cruise, but I wouldn't trust it under WOT until you've got a wideband on it.
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yep, second that.
The base map on a std. car with exhaust+induction runs lean top end, and the ignition table wont let you run 0.8bar boost without det.
get it tuned properly!
The base map on a std. car with exhaust+induction runs lean top end, and the ignition table wont let you run 0.8bar boost without det.
get it tuned properly!
#7
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i'm going "slightly" hijack this thread..
i've been running on my new powerFC for about a month now, but i've been having an awful time trying to tune it correctly. i have a few major issues:
1. i cant pass emissions. not even close. i'm at 9% CO and 3500 ppm HC. i need 1% and 220 ppm to pass at idle. i think i'm failing one of the cruise numbers too, but i cant remember exactly.
2. i cant hold boost levels above stock. currently i'm using the powerFC as my only method of boost control (i dont have the extra boost control option, just the basic powerFC). i have the #1 setting for .5 kg/cm2 (as low as it goes -- 7psi) and the #2 setting for 1.1 kg/cm2 (15psi). neither work -- the low setting holds at about 9psi, and the high setting briefly reaches 14psi, but then falls off to about 11.
3. tuning has been nothing short of a nightmare. i dont have the datalogit kit for the powerFC yet, so i'm using the commander. changes dont seem to take affect when i expect them to. i've had decent luck with the global injector duty setting and the rev-specific and pressure-specific adjustments on the PIM voltage page. messing with the numbers in the fuel correction map cells has been much more difficult.
4. i have no idea what to do with the injector lead and trail timing. are adjustments to these settings common? do i need to make changes here that correspond to the injector duty adjustments that i make elsewhere?
so, i'm suspecting that perhaps my (stock) O2 sensor is on the fritz. i've already ordered the innovative wideband from the rx7store groupbuy. that will also get me the nice digital A/F readout, which should help a lot. then i'm planning to get the datalogit kit so that i can log runs that cover the whole fuel map without having to pay for dyno time.
i'm also wondering if my base map is somehow screwed up. i'm considering hitting the "all data init" option on the commander. will that restore everything to factory defaults? then after i do that, should i put my current settings back, or should i use one of the maps on http://opus.bloomcounty.org/~patrick/pfc/ ? on that site, the SPOAutos list of mods seems the closest to mine, but most of the adjustments for that car were made in injector timing rather than in injector duty.
as for the boost issues, should i be bothering with the boost control function on the powerFC? with a wideband O2 sensor, should the powerFC be sufficient to hold boost at 15-17psi? or should i just go get a greddy profec?
if anyone has any suggestions or more knowledge that they're willing to share, i'd really appreciate it.
i've been running on my new powerFC for about a month now, but i've been having an awful time trying to tune it correctly. i have a few major issues:
1. i cant pass emissions. not even close. i'm at 9% CO and 3500 ppm HC. i need 1% and 220 ppm to pass at idle. i think i'm failing one of the cruise numbers too, but i cant remember exactly.
2. i cant hold boost levels above stock. currently i'm using the powerFC as my only method of boost control (i dont have the extra boost control option, just the basic powerFC). i have the #1 setting for .5 kg/cm2 (as low as it goes -- 7psi) and the #2 setting for 1.1 kg/cm2 (15psi). neither work -- the low setting holds at about 9psi, and the high setting briefly reaches 14psi, but then falls off to about 11.
3. tuning has been nothing short of a nightmare. i dont have the datalogit kit for the powerFC yet, so i'm using the commander. changes dont seem to take affect when i expect them to. i've had decent luck with the global injector duty setting and the rev-specific and pressure-specific adjustments on the PIM voltage page. messing with the numbers in the fuel correction map cells has been much more difficult.
4. i have no idea what to do with the injector lead and trail timing. are adjustments to these settings common? do i need to make changes here that correspond to the injector duty adjustments that i make elsewhere?
so, i'm suspecting that perhaps my (stock) O2 sensor is on the fritz. i've already ordered the innovative wideband from the rx7store groupbuy. that will also get me the nice digital A/F readout, which should help a lot. then i'm planning to get the datalogit kit so that i can log runs that cover the whole fuel map without having to pay for dyno time.
i'm also wondering if my base map is somehow screwed up. i'm considering hitting the "all data init" option on the commander. will that restore everything to factory defaults? then after i do that, should i put my current settings back, or should i use one of the maps on http://opus.bloomcounty.org/~patrick/pfc/ ? on that site, the SPOAutos list of mods seems the closest to mine, but most of the adjustments for that car were made in injector timing rather than in injector duty.
as for the boost issues, should i be bothering with the boost control function on the powerFC? with a wideband O2 sensor, should the powerFC be sufficient to hold boost at 15-17psi? or should i just go get a greddy profec?
if anyone has any suggestions or more knowledge that they're willing to share, i'd really appreciate it.
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#8
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Originally Posted by StrikeRx7
1. i cant pass emissions. not even close.
2. i cant hold boost levels above stock. currently i'm using the powerFC
3. tuning has been nothing short of a nightmare. i dont have the datalogit kit for the powerFC yet, so i'm using the commander. changes dont seem to take affect when i expect them to. i've had decent luck with the global injector duty setting and the rev-specific and pressure-specific adjustments on the PIM voltage page. messing with the numbers in the fuel correction map cells has been much more difficult.
4. i have no idea what to do with the injector lead and trail timing. are adjustments to these settings common? do i need to make changes here that correspond to the injector duty adjustments that i make elsewhere?
2. i cant hold boost levels above stock. currently i'm using the powerFC
3. tuning has been nothing short of a nightmare. i dont have the datalogit kit for the powerFC yet, so i'm using the commander. changes dont seem to take affect when i expect them to. i've had decent luck with the global injector duty setting and the rev-specific and pressure-specific adjustments on the PIM voltage page. messing with the numbers in the fuel correction map cells has been much more difficult.
4. i have no idea what to do with the injector lead and trail timing. are adjustments to these settings common? do i need to make changes here that correspond to the injector duty adjustments that i make elsewhere?
(1). First off your porting is going to make it harder. I imagine your air pump is working??
Turn off the O2 idle control, never use it. Lean out the fuel cells used for the emissions testing as lean as possible but still runs smoothly. Before testing, add 1 gallon of ethanol to a 1/2 tank of gasoline. Drive your car very fast on high boost on the way to the test to clean out the exhaust. Leave car runnning until tested, you want all of it hot!
(2) Get an aftermarket boost controller!!!!!
(3) Get a wideband, DATALOGIT, and laptop; or find someone with them.
(4) what are you talking about here?
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Originally Posted by StrikeRx7
wideband and datalogit have been ordered. i'll get a boost controller as well.
where do i go to disable the O2 idle control?
where do i go to disable the O2 idle control?
ETC screen on the commander.
#11
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ok, i just want to be sure i get the right option.
<img src="https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103659&stc=1">
#4 says:
[O2 F/B Control] -- Enable or Disable O2 feedback control. Disable only when O2 sensor is damaged.
#5 says:
[Idle-IG Cntrl] -- Enable or Disable Ignition timing Control for stable idle. Only disable when checking Ignition Timing. Ignition Timing will be constant during idle at this time.
you're saying i should disable option #5, right? and i should leave it off forever?
thanks for helping me out with this, btw.
<img src="https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103659&stc=1">
#4 says:
[O2 F/B Control] -- Enable or Disable O2 feedback control. Disable only when O2 sensor is damaged.
#5 says:
[Idle-IG Cntrl] -- Enable or Disable Ignition timing Control for stable idle. Only disable when checking Ignition Timing. Ignition Timing will be constant during idle at this time.
you're saying i should disable option #5, right? and i should leave it off forever?
thanks for helping me out with this, btw.
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Originally Posted by StrikeRx7
ok, i just want to be sure i get the right option.
#4 says:
[O2 F/B Control] -- Enable or Disable O2 feedback control. Disable only when O2 sensor is damaged.
#5 says:
[Idle-IG Cntrl] -- Enable or Disable Ignition timing Control for stable idle. Only disable when checking Ignition Timing. Ignition Timing will be constant during idle at this time.
you're saying i should disable option #5, right? and i should leave it off forever?
thanks for helping me out with this, btw.
#4 says:
[O2 F/B Control] -- Enable or Disable O2 feedback control. Disable only when O2 sensor is damaged.
#5 says:
[Idle-IG Cntrl] -- Enable or Disable Ignition timing Control for stable idle. Only disable when checking Ignition Timing. Ignition Timing will be constant during idle at this time.
you're saying i should disable option #5, right? and i should leave it off forever?
thanks for helping me out with this, btw.
Last edited by cewrx7r1; 03-29-05 at 09:34 PM.
#13
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give me a break. one says "O2", the other says "idle", both say "control". you said disable "O2 idle control". i had a 50/50 shot.
i thought the O2 feedback was the system that sends clean air to the catalytic converter for emissions purification. you're saying thats what i want to disable? can you explain in more detail?
i thought the O2 feedback was the system that sends clean air to the catalytic converter for emissions purification. you're saying thats what i want to disable? can you explain in more detail?
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Originally Posted by StrikeRx7
give me a break. one says "O2", the other says "idle", both say "control". you said disable "O2 idle control". i had a 50/50 shot.
i thought the O2 feedback was the system that sends clean air to the catalytic converter for emissions purification. you're saying thats what i want to disable? can you explain in more detail?
i thought the O2 feedback was the system that sends clean air to the catalytic converter for emissions purification. you're saying thats what i want to disable? can you explain in more detail?
Anyway, the air pump and secondary air injection system pumps air to the exhaust manifold and cat, and it is independant of any of the idle control systems.
The O2 idle control is used to keep the AFR mixtures around 14.7 for clean emissions. BUT, once you start modding the engine, the ECU programming (logic) can't handle all the changes that were made. That is your problem you are having.
Thus you have to manually force the engine to do it. That is why you disable the O2 control and manually adjust the AFRS.
If you read/study section F of the Mazda manual, you might learn a few things about the different control systems for the engine.
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