MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

Ok here is what I want to do. I just purchased one of Rob's (pineapple Racing) Intake flow balancers to tune my car with. This device mounts between the upper and lower intake manifolds, and allows the tuner to adjust the amount of flow in each runner. This was designed to help correct the imbalance that the stock 3rd gen LIM creates causing the rear rotors to run lean and have high egt's.

In order to use this device, I need dual egt's, one in each exhaust manifold tube. I have a gt40r from a-spec and his manifold.

I want to be able to connect the sensors that I plan on using(tre fast response egt probes) to the datalogit. I am currently using an1 and an2 for my techedge wideband. I have an1-an2 turned on. This leaves me an3 and an4 for the egt probes. The question is how do I set this up. From my understanding, you need a device to go between the sensor and the datalogit.

Fjo has a dual egt module that sells for $160. It accepst 2 k-type thermocouples and outputs two 0-5v signals. These I assume wound connect to the an3 and an4 inputs. But how do you set up the dattalogit to make sense of the voltages and output the info in degrees f.

Also, if anybody knows how to make the fjo or similar device from less money, I am all ears. And how good are the tre thermocouplers. They seem to be fast reacting, a plus for dattaloging, but no mention of an inconel sleeve for longevety and high temp abuse.

Mike

books

iTrader: (8)

Jeff48 was datalogging 2 egts. He has a schematic listed on this forum. I believe Howard Coleman may be logging 2 also. I am presently logging 1 probe using an Autometer gauge and a voltage divider circuit to feed 0-5v to AN3.

Wankel7

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

James

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Don't forget to calibrate then both to the same temperature souce at the same time before instaling them into the manifold.

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

wankel7 thanks for the link. I am going to inquire about the 2 channel version.

Here are 3 probes that I am considering. Any input would be appreciated.

http://redlinegauges.com/product_inf...81f71e7b957472

http://www.teamrip.com/accessories.html

http://www.ifamilysoftware.com/1900.html

mike

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

Chuck, how do you calibrate them? Are you refering to the values I need to set up in the datalogit or are you talking about the device that amplifies the signal.

and for that matter, what is needed to correctly input the info in the datalogit.

Do you just say that 0v = 0 deg and 5v = 2000deg or are their specific numbers that I need to know/obtain from the thermocouple manufacture.

Mike

books

iTrader: (8)

The probes are pretty linear. I used 500x + 50. I had a fluke meter hooked up at the same time as I recorded the output of the probe.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

here's the thread you need....

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...2&page=1&pp=15

Jeff feltmam (jeff48) graciously posted a wiring diagram that uses an Analog Devices chip. the AD site posts the conversion info you need.

i run a dual setup as per Jeff's design and log front and rear rotors w it. based on my egt readings and exhaust manifold pressure which i also log i have changed a number of things on my setup and i do tune my front and rear rotors separately.

use the TeamRip thermocouples.

good luck,

howard coleman

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

the AD chip is: AD595AD. Thermocouple amplifier.

check their site. i requested 2 as samples and they promptly sent them to me at no cost. you'll need a couple of other small items and a circuit box... Radio Shack. total cost not including the thermocouples, around $20.

don't screw around on the thermocouples... get them from Team Rip. they are instantaneous on my logs.

howard coleman

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

After you get the necessary converter for the probes to give a 0-5VDC input to the DL, and figure some type of poly to give a reading; take both probes and heat then at the same time with the same source while logging. Then adjust each
probe's poly so they record the same temp. This is vital if you want to equally match EGT for each rotor.

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys thanks for the info. Only one problem though, I can't seem to be able to see the diagrams in that thread. I had found it before but the links must have been removed or something. I see Jeff's posts but no schematic

maybe its my pc. anyway if someone has them, my email is mfilippello@verizon.net

Thanks
Mike

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

mike,

i just checked the thread and you are correct, no circuits currently.
i will repost them both to that thread and this thread by monday. sorry but am tied up for the next few days.

howard coleman

jeff48

Mike and anyone else in general interested in logging egts. I am looking for the original schematics of the Amplifier/converter/linearizer circuits and if I find them I will repost. The beauty of these circuits is that, when correctly constructed, they output a simultaneous 10v/degree C and a 5 volt/degree C set of readings. By setting up Aux 3 and 4 on the DL to accept the 5 Volt readings raw voltage 0=0 and 5=5 volts from the front and rear rotor, and at the same time connect one of the 10v/degree C output to a DVOM, you can see what the actual temp in C is from the DVOM while noting what the datalogit corrupted 0-5 volt output is. You make a series of tests from idle to 1000 degrees C for each rotor noting what the voltage is for each DVOM temp reading. After you finish the list, put it in an spreadsheet and see if it turns out linear. If you are lucky like I was you will have a linear result so then you put in the parameters in the AUX spaces (e.g. low end 1.9 volts = 450 C, high end 3.15 volts = 985 C). If you are not lucky have the spreadsheet figure the polynomial for you and enter it. Do the same thing for the other rotor and you have a reliable and accurate datalogit system.

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

thanks alot everone. I will keep you guys updated and await the schematics.

Mike

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

Oh and check this out. I just picked up one on ebay for $300. I am going to use it as a semi permanent pc for the car.

Here: http://www.fujitsupc.com/www/product...stylistic_c500

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

I did something similar. Got an old Compaq Armanda M700 700Mhz for $500 and use it only for logging.

jeff48

Until I got a full time car-pc I used a Fujistu 510 Point (which is an earlier and slower model of what you are talking about). It worked perfectly with FC Edit.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

i do hv a hand written circuit copy from Jeff and will post it monday. BTW, my setup ended as linear.

howard coleman

GQMRacerX7

Is this it?



It is actually from Innovate Motorsports but I thought Jeff's was similar...

jeff48

Yup that is very similar but in its current form, it allows for only 5 volt output AND it is for only 1 K type TC. For dual EGT systems you need two of the circuits.

The 8-9 legs output 10 degrees C/mvolt. According to the schematic it is immediately run through a voltage divider so as to output 5 degrees C/mvolt. Unless you can access both the 0-5 and the 0-10 volt system you will have a hard time calibrating the datalogit corrupted 0-5 v readings.

I would suggest, at least having two connectors at the 8-9 connection. One you can access with the DVOM for a direct reading (move the decimal point to the right for direct degrees Celsius). The second connector should tie to the AN3 or AN4 User connection on the Datalogit.

GQMRacerX7

Jeff,

That's great advice about using the 2 outputs to allow comparing/corrections easily.

One question. Will using a PC Board type terminal and a jumper wire to connect the TK to Pin1 & 14 cause an error? On page 3 of the AD595 datasheet it states in reference to Figure 3:

Here the AD594/AD595 package temperature and circuit board
are thermally contacted in the copper printed circuit board
tracks under Pins 1 and 14. The reference junction is now composed
of a copper-constantan (or copper-alumel) connection
and copper-iron (or copper-chromel) connection, both of which
are at the same temperature as the AD594/AD595.

The datasheet can be found:
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/****.../AD594,595.pdf

jeff48

Yeah I worried about that myself....cold junction references and all, and what about the additional electric charge generated by the different materials.....blah blah blah. In the end, I simply soldered in a screw type PC Board connector for each the positive (Yellow) and the negative (red) leads from the K type and ran a VERY short raw wire to the 1 and 14 legs of the AD595. I just didn't find a problem with that set up at all. You can, if you prefer, go to digikey and get a correct connector, but you still have the problem of the wire from the connector to the AD595....In other words, don't sweat the small stuff.

When you all are ready, I have some great instructions (step by step) on how to do the calibration.....I actually save them from when I wrote them out for Howard.....

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

I received my T/C's today. I am going to start the build on the IC. Jeff, do you have the updated schematic in it's final form available yet. A guy I know has a software/ device for printing and etching the circuit onto a board. As soon as I get the Ad595's and the schematic. I am going to set it up.

as for the tablet PC. I am getting a second docking station for it that I plan on hacking up. I want to seperate the dock from the cradle and use a new cable to allow for the extra distance between the connections. I then plan on mounting the cradle side to some sort of articulating arm, and hide the dock under the dash. I hope to run the extension cable in the center of the articulating arm or at least zip tie it to the arm. This way I can either swing the display towards the driver side or the passenger side. I can also Hook up a GPS to the dock and use it for NAV. Also play MP3's from hard drive. I can get a USB dvd drive and put it in the glove box for playing movies. I can pull it out when I want, and store it in the bin along with the keyboard. I will let everyone see pics when its done.

If any one knows where to get some cool gimbal mounts and arms, I am open to suggestions.

Mike

jeff48

Sorry Mike

Apparently when I got the new computer, I did not copy the files onto the new harddrive.......Hence they are gone. You should be OK with the one listed here though as long as you remember to use a second output for the 0-10v output pre-divider, for the DVOM calibration.

GQMRacerX7

Thanks. I almost soldered the TK wire to the pin with a 96/4 solder (compared to the 60/40 I used for the rest of the circuit) BUT then I remembered I'm using a socket instead of soldering the AD595 directly to the board, so screw it.


I would really appreciate seeing that. I finished the circuit last night. With my DMM the output matches the ratio it is supposed to reduce the Pin 8/9 output very closely. The theoretical reduction is 5/11 = .4545. With the car just sitting in the garage output = .1486 V and Pin 8 = .3272 V produces a ratio = .4541

Now when I hooked up to the Datalogit the logged values are all screwy due to the noise in the Datalogit I guess... AN3-AN4 doesn't work ...I guess since it's also the power's ground...