I'm one who is driven by emotion. I google searched but nothing came up so I thought I would post. I Thought I should mention that before I get reamed for "not searching"

Friday:

I have VTA2 issues on My PFC - TPS voltage was too low. I just had the PFC installed and tuned with my new motor as of 2 weeks ago. Chris at RP in Garland stated that its not to uncommon for cold weather to create some issues. so I planned getting the TB off and adjusting my TPS this sunday.

Saturday morning:

I drive to work and have no issues! volts are reading .48 to .51 all the way to work. " self corrected." I thought, awesome, great!

Saturday evening:

some very aggressive fuel cut and bogging starts to occur. The car is jerking violently and I can't get it past 2-2500 RPMs. I pull over at the next gas station and it dies. I have a new fuel pulsation dampener, RP fuel pump, and new fuel filter installed. Nothing with the fuel system has been upgraded, all OEM.

So I got her started and referenced the Sensor switch check with my commander- "FPR" was the indicator that would black out every time the jerking started to occur. What is the "Fuel Pump Control" on the FD and how do I fix this problem?

Thanks in advance guys!

 

The fuel system only has two electronically controlled devices not counting the injectors.

(1) Fuel pump high speed relay: at a certain engine load the ECU energizes it which causes a set of contacts to close and short out across the speed resistor. This increases the voltage to the FP from about 9 VDC to full battery/alternator voltage which is about 12.9 to 14.2 VDC depending on the temperature.

(2) Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid:
This valve is used while starting (cranking the engine) to switch the vacuum/pressure source to the FPR from the manifold which would be vacuum over to atmosphere.
This is suppose to help prevent vapor lock while starting.
Vapor lock on a high pressure FI system - pure BS!

After starting it directs the source to the FPR back to the manifold so the FPR can adjust to vacuum and pressure again instead of fixed atmosphere.

Most of us remove this totally useless piece of crap.

This is most likely your problem! If stuck in the wrong position, the FPR is stuck at low pressure and can not adjust.

 

Very possible bad TPS... Try another one. Iv also seen the wires break(open circuit) near the tps connector due to old cracking harness.. You shoud have a ground, 0-5v signal, and 5v constant. Without any of those three the ecu will not get the reading it needs and cause it to be undriveable