Bad Hot start and idle.
Bad Hot start and idle.
Hey everyone,
Ive been holding off making a post about this but I can’t seem to figure this out alone. I’ve just finished building a S4 Full Bridgeport NAT FC rx7. When it’s cold it will start off the key, maybe a little finagling with the accelerator and it’ll light off no problem. When it’s hot however, it’s a beast to get started. Fresh engine so I know compression isn’t an issue. Messing with the tune myself and using fc tweaked lead me to good cold starts. But now I’m stumped with hot starts. My second issue is the car won’t hold an idle after it warms up. Cold, no problem it’ll pulse away, even warm is meh, but hot no chance. I can hear the BAC trying to keep up but the rpms just drop. I tried adjusting the throttle body to let more air in, but that seems to make starting the car more difficult, and throws my tps beyond where I can adjust it to spec. I even went the distance and built a 2kw starter and installed an optima red top battery. My most recent discovery is I’m able to get it started again hot after adjusting the cranking ms to 40ms! I know Bridgeport’s are thirsty, but damn….
if anyone has any insight or tips for me to try I’m all ears. Thanks everyone!
Ive been holding off making a post about this but I can’t seem to figure this out alone. I’ve just finished building a S4 Full Bridgeport NAT FC rx7. When it’s cold it will start off the key, maybe a little finagling with the accelerator and it’ll light off no problem. When it’s hot however, it’s a beast to get started. Fresh engine so I know compression isn’t an issue. Messing with the tune myself and using fc tweaked lead me to good cold starts. But now I’m stumped with hot starts. My second issue is the car won’t hold an idle after it warms up. Cold, no problem it’ll pulse away, even warm is meh, but hot no chance. I can hear the BAC trying to keep up but the rpms just drop. I tried adjusting the throttle body to let more air in, but that seems to make starting the car more difficult, and throws my tps beyond where I can adjust it to spec. I even went the distance and built a 2kw starter and installed an optima red top battery. My most recent discovery is I’m able to get it started again hot after adjusting the cranking ms to 40ms! I know Bridgeport’s are thirsty, but damn….
if anyone has any insight or tips for me to try I’m all ears. Thanks everyone!
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
it kind of sounds like its too lean? on my car, hot start is like a point AFR leaner than when its running. couple reasons for it, the intake temp sensor heat soaks for one.
i added fuel in the idle cell, and all the cells below it. so like N2 P5, N2 P4, and then N1 P1 to N1 P10. this worked for me, but i'm also stock port/stock fuel
also if you go into the commander you can use the temp +/- fuel screen.
i added fuel in the idle cell, and all the cells below it. so like N2 P5, N2 P4, and then N1 P1 to N1 P10. this worked for me, but i'm also stock port/stock fuel
also if you go into the commander you can use the temp +/- fuel screen.
Hey everyone,
Ive been holding off making a post about this but I can’t seem to figure this out alone. I’ve just finished building a S4 Full Bridgeport NAT FC rx7. When it’s cold it will start off the key, maybe a little finagling with the accelerator and it’ll light off no problem. When it’s hot however, it’s a beast to get started. Fresh engine so I know compression isn’t an issue. Messing with the tune myself and using fc tweaked lead me to good cold starts. But now I’m stumped with hot starts. My second issue is the car won’t hold an idle after it warms up. Cold, no problem it’ll pulse away, even warm is meh, but hot no chance. I can hear the BAC trying to keep up but the rpms just drop. I tried adjusting the throttle body to let more air in, but that seems to make starting the car more difficult, and throws my tps beyond where I can adjust it to spec. I even went the distance and built a 2kw starter and installed an optima red top battery. My most recent discovery is I’m able to get it started again hot after adjusting the cranking ms to 40ms! I know Bridgeport’s are thirsty, but damn….
if anyone has any insight or tips for me to try I’m all ears. Thanks everyone!
Ive been holding off making a post about this but I can’t seem to figure this out alone. I’ve just finished building a S4 Full Bridgeport NAT FC rx7. When it’s cold it will start off the key, maybe a little finagling with the accelerator and it’ll light off no problem. When it’s hot however, it’s a beast to get started. Fresh engine so I know compression isn’t an issue. Messing with the tune myself and using fc tweaked lead me to good cold starts. But now I’m stumped with hot starts. My second issue is the car won’t hold an idle after it warms up. Cold, no problem it’ll pulse away, even warm is meh, but hot no chance. I can hear the BAC trying to keep up but the rpms just drop. I tried adjusting the throttle body to let more air in, but that seems to make starting the car more difficult, and throws my tps beyond where I can adjust it to spec. I even went the distance and built a 2kw starter and installed an optima red top battery. My most recent discovery is I’m able to get it started again hot after adjusting the cranking ms to 40ms! I know Bridgeport’s are thirsty, but damn….
if anyone has any insight or tips for me to try I’m all ears. Thanks everyone!
it kind of sounds like its too lean? on my car, hot start is like a point AFR leaner than when its running. couple reasons for it, the intake temp sensor heat soaks for one.
i added fuel in the idle cell, and all the cells below it. so like N2 P5, N2 P4, and then N1 P1 to N1 P10. this worked for me, but i'm also stock port/stock fuel
also if you go into the commander you can use the temp +/- fuel screen.
i added fuel in the idle cell, and all the cells below it. so like N2 P5, N2 P4, and then N1 P1 to N1 P10. this worked for me, but i'm also stock port/stock fuel
also if you go into the commander you can use the temp +/- fuel screen.
As you can see, this table richens the fueling by up to 20% at the hottest IAT's, and only for the first few minutes of engine run time after starting. These fuel trims progressively null out to zero after a few minutes of engine run time.
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