Power FC automatic owner using power FC, you need to read this!!
#1
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automatic owner using power FC, you need to read this!!
I have great news for you automatic owner who is running Power FC. Every single one of you should know your hold button is not working anymore. I have known this for a long time because I was running upgraded manual ECU on my automatic RX-7 since 1995 and I am the first guy who uses power FC on an automatic RX-7. I know that because I got the first batch of Power FC and I installed it on my car right away and I started passing out info to people to let them know it works in an automatic. Now your new info will come from me again. I have researched the differnces between the manual and automatic ECU and I found a way to make both work at the same time in the car. somewhat at this point. Read on....
After splicing some wires and cutting some wires, they work together. I use the automatic ECU just for tranny control and everything else with Power FC. The hold flashing symptom is gone. I can hold gear 1st, 2nd and 3rd. I can rev to 8000 rpm with first gear which you cannot do right now. You can only get to 6200 rpm and the comptuer shifts to 2nd. That sucks for me because I have the T51r kai turbo and the turbo does not really spool up until 5000rpm. Only 1200 rpm of usable power at 1st gear really sucks and when it shifts to second, it's back to 4000 rpm and I have to wait a little bit for it to spool up again. That sucks even more.
After I rewired everything, hold flasing was gone, I could hold gear. Everthing seemed right and I was very excited. After I pulled a few runs, the hold button was flashing again. hmmm...... turned off the engine and started the engine again. hold flashing was gone, again. drove for a while, hold was flashing again. Check the ECU code for the automatic ECU, no barometric input which seems weird because that input wire was spliced in. Anyways, I might need your help. I do not know if the auto ECU I bought has a bad barometric pressure sensor. I do not have access to another automatic ECU now.
If you have an auto and you are running power FC now and you have an auto ecu on the side, send it to me. The one I got is not the one I was looking for. I need a N3A4, an Cali spec auto ECU. I do not know if this is why but I cannot do more research on it until I find another good working auto ECU to work with.
Let me know if you can help. For those who help me, I will help you to get your hold function back. Email me if you have a N3A4 auto ecu so I can continue my research to solve the bug.
Chuck
After splicing some wires and cutting some wires, they work together. I use the automatic ECU just for tranny control and everything else with Power FC. The hold flashing symptom is gone. I can hold gear 1st, 2nd and 3rd. I can rev to 8000 rpm with first gear which you cannot do right now. You can only get to 6200 rpm and the comptuer shifts to 2nd. That sucks for me because I have the T51r kai turbo and the turbo does not really spool up until 5000rpm. Only 1200 rpm of usable power at 1st gear really sucks and when it shifts to second, it's back to 4000 rpm and I have to wait a little bit for it to spool up again. That sucks even more.
After I rewired everything, hold flasing was gone, I could hold gear. Everthing seemed right and I was very excited. After I pulled a few runs, the hold button was flashing again. hmmm...... turned off the engine and started the engine again. hold flashing was gone, again. drove for a while, hold was flashing again. Check the ECU code for the automatic ECU, no barometric input which seems weird because that input wire was spliced in. Anyways, I might need your help. I do not know if the auto ECU I bought has a bad barometric pressure sensor. I do not have access to another automatic ECU now.
If you have an auto and you are running power FC now and you have an auto ecu on the side, send it to me. The one I got is not the one I was looking for. I need a N3A4, an Cali spec auto ECU. I do not know if this is why but I cannot do more research on it until I find another good working auto ECU to work with.
Let me know if you can help. For those who help me, I will help you to get your hold function back. Email me if you have a N3A4 auto ecu so I can continue my research to solve the bug.
Chuck
#2
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Cool Chuck! Wish you could use mine, but mine's a non-Cali. LUVRX7 wired up the Haltech in parallel with the stock ecu. Ran into some snags, but I think he was able to work around it.
I still am going to the a manual swap, but this might be a good interim solution while I get caught up on my bills, hehe.
Keep us up to date!
I still am going to the a manual swap, but this might be a good interim solution while I get caught up on my bills, hehe.
Keep us up to date!
#3
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stock ecu work with haltec
I think you are trying to use haltec to control igntion, fuel, boost, etc but using the stock computer to control emission, double throttle, etc? I think it will work for haltec as well. It's pretty much the same idea. Just make sure you power up the stock ecu and get all the inputs wirings running to it. I do not know what the stock ecu's logic is. If some of the inputs are not there or some of the outputs are not there, it might get itself into a safe mode and things will not run smoothly as it's supposed to. There will be a lot of trial and error, I think it will eventurally work out for your setup as well. Good luck.
Chuck
Chuck
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Re: stock ecu work with haltec
Originally posted by rotaryextreme
I think you are trying to use haltec to control igntion, fuel, boost, etc but using the stock computer to control emission, double throttle, etc? I think it will work for haltec as well. It's pretty much the same idea. Just make sure you power up the stock ecu and get all the inputs wirings running to it. I do not know what the stock ecu's logic is. If some of the inputs are not there or some of the outputs are not there, it might get itself into a safe mode and things will not run smoothly as it's supposed to. There will be a lot of trial and error, I think it will eventurally work out for your setup as well. Good luck.
Chuck
I think you are trying to use haltec to control igntion, fuel, boost, etc but using the stock computer to control emission, double throttle, etc? I think it will work for haltec as well. It's pretty much the same idea. Just make sure you power up the stock ecu and get all the inputs wirings running to it. I do not know what the stock ecu's logic is. If some of the inputs are not there or some of the outputs are not there, it might get itself into a safe mode and things will not run smoothly as it's supposed to. There will be a lot of trial and error, I think it will eventurally work out for your setup as well. Good luck.
Chuck
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I am going to start working on this also. Instead of splicing, I had an idea for a pass through connector. Non essential wires would be pass throughs, while the needed sensors would have jump wires. I need to know what the connectors look like. It looks like a molex connection for the ECU plug ins. The connectors are here http://www.molex.com/cgi-bin/bv/molex/index_login.jsp
I'm not an engineer, so any help I can get, pics, etc. would be nice. I'm not really as interested in the hold button. I'm more concerned about lockup, etc. I'm not sure we're getting all the power the engine is making without the tranny ECU functioning. I also have a letter in to level ten asking about their shiftronic. Yeah I know it's cheesy, but like I said, I want to control lockup. Speaking of this, can anyone explain or give me a link that explains this. I know there is a fluid coupling until lockup, where you get a 1:1. It seems in the high gears the car is not pulling like it should.
I'm not an engineer, so any help I can get, pics, etc. would be nice. I'm not really as interested in the hold button. I'm more concerned about lockup, etc. I'm not sure we're getting all the power the engine is making without the tranny ECU functioning. I also have a letter in to level ten asking about their shiftronic. Yeah I know it's cheesy, but like I said, I want to control lockup. Speaking of this, can anyone explain or give me a link that explains this. I know there is a fluid coupling until lockup, where you get a 1:1. It seems in the high gears the car is not pulling like it should.
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weaklink:
Yes, that ECU is the one I am looking for. As for connectors. the best way is to get another set of stock wiring harness and use the ECU connnectors on those. As for right now, I do not want to release how I have it done since it's not 100% working. I do not know what's the negative effect of it not working 100%. You might blow your engine, something might happen and I do not want to be responsible for it. I do not want to hear from people talking crap about me later on when they tried it and blew their stuff. I will only release info on it once it's working 100% and I have done extensive road test. Same thing as the manual ECU, I have used it for 4 years on my car so I can tell people it works. Same thing for the Power FC. As for the torque converter lock up. You will not have any torque converter lock up at 1st and 2nd gear. Only at 3rd and 4th. If you want to further investigate the mechanism, I would recommend you to buy a shop manual and look at both section F and sectoin K. So I guess no one else is interested in this. I will not waste the bandwith on the forum so those of you who are interested. Send me an email. I will not add any updates on the forum.
Chuck
Yes, that ECU is the one I am looking for. As for connectors. the best way is to get another set of stock wiring harness and use the ECU connnectors on those. As for right now, I do not want to release how I have it done since it's not 100% working. I do not know what's the negative effect of it not working 100%. You might blow your engine, something might happen and I do not want to be responsible for it. I do not want to hear from people talking crap about me later on when they tried it and blew their stuff. I will only release info on it once it's working 100% and I have done extensive road test. Same thing as the manual ECU, I have used it for 4 years on my car so I can tell people it works. Same thing for the Power FC. As for the torque converter lock up. You will not have any torque converter lock up at 1st and 2nd gear. Only at 3rd and 4th. If you want to further investigate the mechanism, I would recommend you to buy a shop manual and look at both section F and sectoin K. So I guess no one else is interested in this. I will not waste the bandwith on the forum so those of you who are interested. Send me an email. I will not add any updates on the forum.
Chuck
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Originally posted by rotaryextreme
weaklink:
Yes, that ECU is the one I am looking for. As for connectors. the best way is to get another set of stock wiring harness and use the ECU connnectors on those. As for right now, I do not want to release how I have it done since it's not 100% working. I do not know what's the negative effect of it not working 100%. You might blow your engine, something might happen and I do not want to be responsible for it. I do not want to hear from people talking crap about me later on when they tried it and blew their stuff. I will only release info on it once it's working 100% and I have done extensive road test. Same thing as the manual ECU, I have used it for 4 years on my car so I can tell people it works. Same thing for the Power FC. As for the torque converter lock up. You will not have any torque converter lock up at 1st and 2nd gear. Only at 3rd and 4th. If you want to further investigate the mechanism, I would recommend you to buy a shop manual and look at both section F and sectoin K. So I guess no one else is interested in this. I will not waste the bandwith on the forum so those of you who are interested. Send me an email. I will not add any updates on the forum.
Chuck
weaklink:
Yes, that ECU is the one I am looking for. As for connectors. the best way is to get another set of stock wiring harness and use the ECU connnectors on those. As for right now, I do not want to release how I have it done since it's not 100% working. I do not know what's the negative effect of it not working 100%. You might blow your engine, something might happen and I do not want to be responsible for it. I do not want to hear from people talking crap about me later on when they tried it and blew their stuff. I will only release info on it once it's working 100% and I have done extensive road test. Same thing as the manual ECU, I have used it for 4 years on my car so I can tell people it works. Same thing for the Power FC. As for the torque converter lock up. You will not have any torque converter lock up at 1st and 2nd gear. Only at 3rd and 4th. If you want to further investigate the mechanism, I would recommend you to buy a shop manual and look at both section F and sectoin K. So I guess no one else is interested in this. I will not waste the bandwith on the forum so those of you who are interested. Send me an email. I will not add any updates on the forum.
Chuck
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Originally posted by dclin
Hehe, you should post it to the 3rd gen section, for more feedback. You'll probably catch all the auto owners there. I was wondering about the plug. I wonder if that is available other then buying a new/used harness? I nkow Mazda used another company for the plugs and such, and I know someone has researched it. I can't find that thread now...
Hehe, you should post it to the 3rd gen section, for more feedback. You'll probably catch all the auto owners there. I was wondering about the plug. I wonder if that is available other then buying a new/used harness? I nkow Mazda used another company for the plugs and such, and I know someone has researched it. I can't find that thread now...
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Originally posted by dclin
LUVRX7 wired up the Haltech in parallel with the stock ecu. Ran into some snags, but I think he was able to work around it.
LUVRX7 wired up the Haltech in parallel with the stock ecu. Ran into some snags, but I think he was able to work around it.
rotaryextreme: Before I put in the Haltech, my hold light would start to flash after a good run and the hold mode wouldn't be available - if I brought the car to a complete stop, the flashing would stop and it would work again. Anyways if yours does that also, it may not be the ECU itself since I didn't replace mine and haven't had a bit of trouble with it since putting the Haltech in.
I don't follow the PFC forum much at all, but I could have sworn some months ago a person thought he was super-duper close to having a harness ready that would make the tranny ECU work with the PFC. What happened to that?
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I think that was Matt (spigot) and I think he is busy with other stuff so that is pretty much dead. I don't think these need to be wired in parallel (ie 2 ecus). As I understand it, there is a seperate tranny ecu. I think it just needs to get the sensor input that it needs to do its job. Now, the trick would be to get the tranny ecu's output back to the PFC (like torque reductionsignal, ignition retard, etc.) I'm not as interested in those. This wouldn't fix the hold light, but would enable the tranny to function as it was intended more or less. Yeah it works now, but I have always wondered if it goes into some sort of limp home mode when it gets stranded from its necessary input like so many other systems do (think MAP sensor).
Last edited by weaklink; 11-17-01 at 10:29 AM.
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it wont work
Just a Power FC can never work with the tranny ECU because it does not send the barometric signal, slip signal, and other signals to the Tranny ECU. The ecu plug that's responsible for all that is the plug 2. The smallest ecu plug. On the manual car, there are only two wires on it. One is for rpm input and i forgot what the other one is. On the automatic ecu, there are like 5 wires on it. The addtional wires are linked to the tranny ecu. I do not have the shop manual with me now so I cannot give you the exact spec but you get the idea. The whole thing is not about making a harness. It's about linking two acutally 3 ecu's together (power fc, stock ecu, tranny ecu).
Chuck
Chuck
Originally posted by Viper jr
Did you mean LUV94RX7 or did you really mean me?
rotaryextreme: Before I put in the Haltech, my hold light would start to flash after a good run and the hold mode wouldn't be available - if I brought the car to a complete stop, the flashing would stop and it would work again. Anyways if yours does that also, it may not be the ECU itself since I didn't replace mine and haven't had a bit of trouble with it since putting the Haltech in.
I don't follow the PFC forum much at all, but I could have sworn some months ago a person thought he was super-duper close to having a harness ready that would make the tranny ECU work with the PFC. What happened to that?
Did you mean LUV94RX7 or did you really mean me?
rotaryextreme: Before I put in the Haltech, my hold light would start to flash after a good run and the hold mode wouldn't be available - if I brought the car to a complete stop, the flashing would stop and it would work again. Anyways if yours does that also, it may not be the ECU itself since I didn't replace mine and haven't had a bit of trouble with it since putting the Haltech in.
I don't follow the PFC forum much at all, but I could have sworn some months ago a person thought he was super-duper close to having a harness ready that would make the tranny ECU work with the PFC. What happened to that?
Last edited by rotaryextreme; 11-18-01 at 01:47 AM.
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Re: it wont work
Originally posted by rotaryextreme
The whole thing is not about making a harness. It's about linking two acutally 3 ecu's together (power fc, stock ecu, tranny ecu).
The whole thing is not about making a harness. It's about linking two acutally 3 ecu's together (power fc, stock ecu, tranny ecu).
#17
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It will be much easier for Haltec since it has it's own wiring harness. For the power fc, it's not that easy. There is only one set of wiring harness and sometimes when you wire both inputs to both power fc and stock ecu, it will not work. It's really a pain in the butt. If the new AEM ECU can control automatic tranny just like what it does for the supra, I am switching. Screw the power fc. I will just sell it with the commander for around $800-900.
Chuck
Chuck
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Originally posted by rotaryextreme
If the new AEM ECU can control automatic tranny just like what it does for the supra, I am switching. Screw the power fc. I will just sell it with the commander for around $800-900.
Chuck
If the new AEM ECU can control automatic tranny just like what it does for the supra, I am switching. Screw the power fc. I will just sell it with the commander for around $800-900.
Chuck