Power FC After Tune Problem
After Tune Problem
So i got my car tuned the other day. It was tuned at 12 PSI. Everything under the hood is stock, ive got wats listed in the sig. The A/F is 11.2 low end -mid, becoming 10.8 higher up to redline. My injector duty is between 85-88% Now when i drive my car it boosts always around .73-.80 kg/cm2 ~ 11.4 psi. I dont know if during the tune sesh it was this or .85(12 PSI)
So my idea is that with an effini y-pipe, intake, and SMIC would i run the designated boost of 12psi safley? I know the mods will raise the boost (with a SMIC nothing big) Or would my A/F rise too much. If it begins to spike past 12 i can just lower it 12.
But, if the car is tuned at ~11.3 Psi, then wouldnt jumping to 12 do no good and again run lean? Wat u guys think. I know a wideband will come in handy but if i had 250$ for one ill just retune it.
SO overall, Should i let the car with the other mods go to 12 psi and set it there or should keep the boost about the same after the other mods by lowering it with the PFC Commander, or should i get it retuned after the mods which is not what i want to do. THnx guys i know most of you are smart and will know exactly what to do
So my idea is that with an effini y-pipe, intake, and SMIC would i run the designated boost of 12psi safley? I know the mods will raise the boost (with a SMIC nothing big) Or would my A/F rise too much. If it begins to spike past 12 i can just lower it 12.
But, if the car is tuned at ~11.3 Psi, then wouldnt jumping to 12 do no good and again run lean? Wat u guys think. I know a wideband will come in handy but if i had 250$ for one ill just retune it.
SO overall, Should i let the car with the other mods go to 12 psi and set it there or should keep the boost about the same after the other mods by lowering it with the PFC Commander, or should i get it retuned after the mods which is not what i want to do. THnx guys i know most of you are smart and will know exactly what to do
First off the PFC reads out lower boost than actual, here is a thread on it.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...pfc+boost+gauge
So more than likely you are actually running ~12.5 psi. if I had to guess. If it was tuned right then the cells above it shouldn't hurt it to turn the boost up alittle anyway, but I'm not saying do it, that's your decision.
11.2-10.8 afr at 12psi is alittle rich. You could easilly run 11.5afr at your level. I run 11.2-11.3 at 15psi
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...pfc+boost+gauge
So more than likely you are actually running ~12.5 psi. if I had to guess. If it was tuned right then the cells above it shouldn't hurt it to turn the boost up alittle anyway, but I'm not saying do it, that's your decision.
11.2-10.8 afr at 12psi is alittle rich. You could easilly run 11.5afr at your level. I run 11.2-11.3 at 15psi
Originally Posted by SPICcnmGT
11.2-10.8 afr at 12psi is alittle rich. You could easilly run 11.5afr at your level. I run 11.2-11.3 at 15psi
First get a real boost gauge that reads correctly as the PFC and DL do not unless you calibrate the map sensor. You should have correlate that when it was tuned.
Even if you put on some new mods that might affect boost, just re-adjust your boost level down to 12psi again. 11.5AFR-11.2AFR is fine. Any richer is
NON-GREEN as it is wasteful for no reason. Richer past max torque is not needed as keeping the AFRs the same is also richer than needed. Actually going a little leaner past max torque will give more power but we keep it linear for cooling as at higher rpms more heat is produced.
If your air temp sensor is still under the UIM, it reads higher than it should especially in cooler weather and this can cause a leaner mixture.
I move it to the IC outlet or throttle elbow where it will heat soak less and will give more accurate temperature readings. If you do not do this or do not reset the Air Temp VS INJ table, your AFRs will change between summer and winter.
I have done seasonal AFR tuning so that now my AFRS are the same in summer as winter.
It is best to power tune in winter when the engine is making more power so that your timing will be optimized then. That way in summer when you make less power, you do not have to worry about having too much timing.
If you maximize timing in summer, then in winter it can be too high and then BOOM!
Same boost with cold air makes more power than same boost with hotter air if AFRs are similar. Cold air is like running more boost which requires less timing.
Even if you put on some new mods that might affect boost, just re-adjust your boost level down to 12psi again. 11.5AFR-11.2AFR is fine. Any richer is
NON-GREEN as it is wasteful for no reason. Richer past max torque is not needed as keeping the AFRs the same is also richer than needed. Actually going a little leaner past max torque will give more power but we keep it linear for cooling as at higher rpms more heat is produced.
If your air temp sensor is still under the UIM, it reads higher than it should especially in cooler weather and this can cause a leaner mixture.
I move it to the IC outlet or throttle elbow where it will heat soak less and will give more accurate temperature readings. If you do not do this or do not reset the Air Temp VS INJ table, your AFRs will change between summer and winter.
I have done seasonal AFR tuning so that now my AFRS are the same in summer as winter.
It is best to power tune in winter when the engine is making more power so that your timing will be optimized then. That way in summer when you make less power, you do not have to worry about having too much timing.
If you maximize timing in summer, then in winter it can be too high and then BOOM!
Same boost with cold air makes more power than same boost with hotter air if AFRs are similar. Cold air is like running more boost which requires less timing.
Trending Topics
Direct answer:
(1) you do not understand or have enough knowledge of how all the control systems for timing and fuel injection work to control the operation of the engine.
(2) go buy a book/magazine that goes over all of this and study.
(3) buy a DATALOGIT and experiment with tuning: idle, then cruise, then vacuum to boost transistion, and finally boost.
(1) you do not understand or have enough knowledge of how all the control systems for timing and fuel injection work to control the operation of the engine.
(2) go buy a book/magazine that goes over all of this and study.
(3) buy a DATALOGIT and experiment with tuning: idle, then cruise, then vacuum to boost transistion, and finally boost.
Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
Direct answer:
(1) you do not understand or have enough knowledge of how all the control systems for timing and fuel injection work to control the operation of the engine.
(2) go buy a book/magazine that goes over all of this and study.
(3) buy a DATALOGIT and experiment with tuning: idle, then cruise, then vacuum to boost transistion, and finally boost.
(1) you do not understand or have enough knowledge of how all the control systems for timing and fuel injection work to control the operation of the engine.
(2) go buy a book/magazine that goes over all of this and study.
(3) buy a DATALOGIT and experiment with tuning: idle, then cruise, then vacuum to boost transistion, and finally boost.
I didnt ask you guys to comment on my knowlege of timing and ****. I didnt even know why you said that. Just say yes you might get lean, or no you should be fine under these circumstances. And based on my facts given, you dont have enough information to judge me.
I guess you cant understand my question, so ill make it easier. With a A/F of 10.8, would ic,ypipe,intake with controlled boost cause any leaning. I have checked, and their are many threads of people asking similar questions, but my A/F is richer than normal.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
Sep 16, 2018 07:16 PM
msilvia
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
15
Sep 11, 2015 12:13 PM




