I just had my street ported 2 mm motor blow up at the end of last year. It was all tuned very nicely at KD rotary. I have just dropped in a street ported 3mm seal engine. Will my tune be way off now? Or are there a few parameters I can change in the PFC?
Thanks
Shane

 

Why did it blow up?

 

The difference in the seals should not affect the tune.

But still as asked, why did it blow? The answer might affect the tune.

 

Thanks for the quick replies guys. Without going into a ton of detail, I went through 3 motors last year, and came to the conclusion it was my crispy wiring harness or not up to par fuel pump All motors were tuned after installing and all motors blew up under full throttle runs on the highway at the top end of 3rd or 4th gear. All were the rear rotor. After talking to several people, we determined that a big problem could be the old harness or fuel system. I replaced all the injectors with brand new (1680/550), replaced the wiring harness, the fuel pump, fuel filter and pretty much EVERYTHING now!
I was running a brand new GT35R at only 10 lbs of boost when all this blowing up happened! The turbo center Housing has also been replaced since the last motor took it out.

So basically everything is fresh now, and I dont wanna blow up because 3mm seals would make a big difference in my tune.

Thanks for any input... It is GREATLY appreciated!!!!

 

Rear rotors do tend to blow more do to running leaner with stock intake manifolds and TB. You can add more lag to the rear secondary injector to richen it up.
Ideally, you would need twin EGT sensors to measure both exhaust and use lag to match them up at full throttle. Or just add .10 more lag to the rear as an estimate.

I run a fuel pressure gauge just to periodicly check pressure against boost to insure all is working OK.

 

Here's what I do. I have my wideband AFR display mounted on my steering column, right below the tachometer (way harder to read it on the pillar), using a universal Autometer mounting cup. Every time I go WOT my eyes are on the tach and the AFR display. This isn't necessarily going to save an engine but you should ALWAYS know what your AFR is. If you had a fuel pressure drop, you would see the car leaning out even if you couldn't necessarily look at the fuel pressure display. After every WOT run I check peak knock and beak boost on the PFC Commander as well. Yes this is borderline paranoia, and I know you paid a professional to tune the car, but you can't just trust that everything is going to go right on the car all the time.

As for PFC settings... well start the car up and if for whatever reason it's not idling as well as it used to, you need to start playing with fuel, timing, and air (if you are running manual idle control. see Chuck's notes). You can tune idle with the Commander. In fact, I find it easier to do so using the diagnostic mode.

 

Arghx is not paranoid, I do similar readings all the time. Especially after filling the gas tank. Unfortunately it is a requirement to have these cars last.