Engine Building Thoughts
10-10-06, 12:32 PM
#76
Rotary Enthusiast
Hi Blake,
I plan to buy a JDM FD3S, so far i have being dealing with a very reputable company called J spec import out of Australia. I imported a 1990 Nissan Skyline (80000km exellent shape etc etc) i was very impressed with the condition of the vehicle and the dealer maitnance records since new in the groove box.
Anyways, what i am getting to. If I find a nice quality STOCK FD3S from japan, adult driven, with around 70-80000 km's on it (43-50000mils) in all reality how long will the 13b-rew last on average before i need a rebuild, assuming i preform all the important reliability mods such as cooling etc and have good maintance of course and good driving habits. Thanks for you time, i look forward to your response.
I plan to buy a JDM FD3S, so far i have being dealing with a very reputable company called J spec import out of Australia. I imported a 1990 Nissan Skyline (80000km exellent shape etc etc) i was very impressed with the condition of the vehicle and the dealer maitnance records since new in the groove box.
Anyways, what i am getting to. If I find a nice quality STOCK FD3S from japan, adult driven, with around 70-80000 km's on it (43-50000mils) in all reality how long will the 13b-rew last on average before i need a rebuild, assuming i preform all the important reliability mods such as cooling etc and have good maintance of course and good driving habits. Thanks for you time, i look forward to your response.
10-10-06, 12:43 PM
#77
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Mr. Blake, as others have said before, this is an awesome thread, thank you. I noticed on the pineapple site you listed you gentleman are capable of putting together a 4 rotor. I assume this is in regards the Kiwi RE 23A kit. If my assumption is correct would you be willing to share any expeirences with building such an engine?
Also thank you for sharing your expeirences with the P ports, normally I read and hear that they are utterly unberable on the street.
Also thank you for sharing your expeirences with the P ports, normally I read and hear that they are utterly unberable on the street.
10-10-06, 01:31 PM
#78
Originally Posted by apexFD
Hi Blake,
I plan to buy a JDM FD3S, so far i have being dealing with a very reputable company called J spec import out of Australia. I imported a 1990 Nissan Skyline (80000km exellent shape etc etc) i was very impressed with the condition of the vehicle and the dealer maitnance records since new in the groove box.
Anyways, what i am getting to. If I find a nice quality STOCK FD3S from japan, adult driven, with around 70-80000 km's on it (43-50000mils) in all reality how long will the 13b-rew last on average before i need a rebuild, assuming i preform all the important reliability mods such as cooling etc and have good maintance of course and good driving habits. Thanks for you time, i look forward to your response.
I plan to buy a JDM FD3S, so far i have being dealing with a very reputable company called J spec import out of Australia. I imported a 1990 Nissan Skyline (80000km exellent shape etc etc) i was very impressed with the condition of the vehicle and the dealer maitnance records since new in the groove box.
Anyways, what i am getting to. If I find a nice quality STOCK FD3S from japan, adult driven, with around 70-80000 km's on it (43-50000mils) in all reality how long will the 13b-rew last on average before i need a rebuild, assuming i preform all the important reliability mods such as cooling etc and have good maintance of course and good driving habits. Thanks for you time, i look forward to your response.
10-10-06, 02:17 PM
#79
Originally Posted by Rhode_Dog
Mr. Blake, as others have said before, this is an awesome thread, thank you. I noticed on the pineapple site you listed you gentleman are capable of putting together a 4 rotor. I assume this is in regards the Kiwi RE 23A kit. If my assumption is correct would you be willing to share any expeirences with building such an engine?
Also thank you for sharing your expeirences with the P ports, normally I read and hear that they are utterly unberable on the street.
Also thank you for sharing your expeirences with the P ports, normally I read and hear that they are utterly unberable on the street.
10-10-06, 07:10 PM
#80
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by Blake
Well, if it's never seen a track day or any other situation where is has gotten warm, we usually expect to see 80-90K in stock form. If it has seen elevated temps, it might only be 50-60K, when the water seals start to go. What we normally advise people to do is find a great-condition FD with a bad motor and have it rebuilt to your standards, if at all possible. The overall cost is similar, but you will be starting the engine count-down clock at zero. Just a suggestion.
Thanks for that info. Obviously your figures are in Miles. I know of a few reliability mods such as the cooling issue, vacuum lines, your oil pans would help i think; what exactly are all of the reliability mods you would recomend doing to a stock FD3S. Also beside engine reliability mods, would there also be electrical compoments that i should be worring about, like what type for things im preticular should i be looking for in a good FD3S.
The closest engine rebuilding shop in my area that i can think of on the west coast is ForceFed Perormance shop in Langley BC run my man named Marco(i dont know his last name), have you ever heard of these guys from waht i hear marco is know for rotary related things. Thanks again
10-11-06, 01:16 AM
#81
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Originally Posted by Blake
No, we have no experience with the Kiwi RE 23A. Our 4-rotor is custom made from two 13Bs. It is actually shorter than the factory 26B. One of a kind.
10-11-06, 12:02 PM
#82
Originally Posted by Rhode_Dog
There is where I ask...do you have any pictures?
10-11-06, 12:46 PM
#83
Originally Posted by apexFD
Thanks for that info. Obviously your figures are in Miles. I know of a few reliability mods such as the cooling issue, vacuum lines, your oil pans would help i think; what exactly are all of the reliability mods you would recomend doing to a stock FD3S. Also beside engine reliability mods, would there also be electrical compoments that i should be worring about, like what type for things im preticular should i be looking for in a good FD3S.
The closest engine rebuilding shop in my area that i can think of on the west coast is ForceFed Perormance shop in Langley BC run my man named Marco(i dont know his last name), have you ever heard of these guys from waht i hear marco is know for rotary related things. Thanks again
The closest engine rebuilding shop in my area that i can think of on the west coast is ForceFed Perormance shop in Langley BC run my man named Marco(i dont know his last name), have you ever heard of these guys from waht i hear marco is know for rotary related things. Thanks again
The main thing is cooling. The stock radiator plastic end tanks often start leaking at 70-80K, which is obviously a bad thing. Upgrading the radiator is a good idea, but even a good stock radiator with Evans NPG+ will be a huge improvement. NPG is waterless coolant with a boiling point of 375ºF at ZERO pressure. Unlike conventional coolant, it does not nucleate boil (little tiny bubbles that insulate the engine hotspots from the coolant), so heat transfers better. Because there is no water, it doesn't need all the additives to prevent corossion that only have a limited life, so you don't have to change the coolant periodically; it is "lifetime" coolant, provided you don't contaminate it. This is not the bad orange stuff that is perportedly "lifetime" but causes a lot of problems...that stuff uses tons of additives to make it last longer and whatever they use seems to attack soft seals. We have been using NPG for many years with great success. The downside is cost. At $34.50 per gallon, the initial cost is not cheap, but you never need to change it and the benefits to the engine are significant, in our opinion. You also have to factor in that you can't top it off with water and you can't find NPG just anywhere, so you have to keep some with you. On the other hand, you can run your cooling system at zero PSI so there is less stress on the hoses and water seals. Overall, we think these are good trade-offs.
If you drive the car "normally", the stock oil cooling is probably adequate, but if you push it hard at times (like track days or whatever), you at least need the R1/R2 dual coolers or other additional oil cooling. At least monitor the oil temps and try never to exceed 205ºF. If you do get a rebuild in the future, strongly consider oil system modifications.
Other than that, just try to keep heat out of the engine bay (downpipe, thermal wrap on the turbo if possible, good venting, etc.) and keep the stock systems in good repair (replace vacuum lines if necessary, for example).
10-11-06, 02:06 PM
#84
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i was wondering where you think the intake port should be placed in a Pport motor that is going to be using a T04R 67 turbo. its by no means a street car but i would like your input as to the placement of the intake port and the RPM the intake and exhaust runners should be tuned for.
10-11-06, 04:01 PM
#86
Originally Posted by ikari899
i was wondering where you think the intake port should be placed in a Pport motor that is going to be using a T04R 67 turbo. its by no means a street car but i would like your input as to the placement of the intake port and the RPM the intake and exhaust runners should be tuned for.
10-11-06, 04:04 PM
#87
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Originally Posted by Blake
If you like, shoot Rob an email <rob@pineappleracing.com> and maybe he will help you out or try to point you in the right direction, but stuff like this is getting a bit too proprietary to share freely.
10-11-06, 08:39 PM
#88
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by Blake
boost is blown out the exhaust port scours the chamber of all residual exhaust.
The downside to adding overlap on a turbo motor is that you lose some boost out the tailpipe at lower RPM.
The downside to adding overlap on a turbo motor is that you lose some boost out the tailpipe at lower RPM.
In a turbo application, the turbocharger places a great deal of restriction to the exhaust gases leaving the engine. In almost every circumstance, this exhaust pressure is much higher than the boost pressure, typically up to 2 times the manifold pressure. This is easily identified by placing an auxilary pressure gauge into the exhaust before the turbocharger and comparing its readings to the manifold boost gauge.
During rotational degrees of overlap, when both the intake and exhaust port (or valve, in piston applications) are open at the same time, this higher exhaust pressure forces exhaust into the intake charge. Fluid flow always occurs from a system of higher pressure to that of a lower pressure.
These exhaust gases dilute the intake charge with an incombustible oxygen-depleted gas, which lowers combustion rate and causes misfires.
Overlap charge dilution becomes less and less of an effect on combustion as the rpms come up because the duration of time of which the ports are simutaneously open linearly decreases.
In naturally aspirated and off-boost applications, a similar situation is present, where the exhaust pressure, due to exhaust system restriction and the expansion of burning gases causes a positive exhaust pressure, where as the intake system will be at a pressure much below atmospheric due to the restrition of the throttle plates creating a relative vacuum. Again, the higher exhaust pressure causes the exhaust gases to flow into the intake charge and dilute it, which forms a reduced combustible charge, and lower idle quality.
10-11-06, 10:15 PM
#89
Rotary Enthusiast
Thank you for all of the exellent information Blake!
On the first page you were mentioning that...
"The retail price of a 13B-REW rotor housing is currently $815.05...EACH! While most established builders get a pretty nice discount from Mazda, you are still looking at over $1,100 per engine, just for the rotor housings on a 13B-REW. Added to the rest of the list if parts necessary to build a quality engine, the engine builder's cost is over $2,000 in parts, let alone all the hours of labor put into dissasembly, parts cleaning, refurbishing re-usable parts, and re-assembly. At $2,800 for a basic rebuild, if we spend more than 10 hours on an engine, we are losing money! This is not counting porting, oil mods, milling rotors or other extra services."
I wasnt clear if in your price of 2800US for the 93-95 Performance Rebuild.(5y/60000 mile warrenty) Are new rotor housings were used in your rebuild on top of everythign else you mentioned that makes a quality rebuild complete. Please correct me if im wrong. Also how does you rebuild process work, do you need the whole car, just the core? As you can tell i am very interested in your company. Thanks again
On the first page you were mentioning that...
"The retail price of a 13B-REW rotor housing is currently $815.05...EACH! While most established builders get a pretty nice discount from Mazda, you are still looking at over $1,100 per engine, just for the rotor housings on a 13B-REW. Added to the rest of the list if parts necessary to build a quality engine, the engine builder's cost is over $2,000 in parts, let alone all the hours of labor put into dissasembly, parts cleaning, refurbishing re-usable parts, and re-assembly. At $2,800 for a basic rebuild, if we spend more than 10 hours on an engine, we are losing money! This is not counting porting, oil mods, milling rotors or other extra services."
I wasnt clear if in your price of 2800US for the 93-95 Performance Rebuild.(5y/60000 mile warrenty) Are new rotor housings were used in your rebuild on top of everythign else you mentioned that makes a quality rebuild complete. Please correct me if im wrong. Also how does you rebuild process work, do you need the whole car, just the core? As you can tell i am very interested in your company. Thanks again
10-12-06, 12:19 PM
#90
Originally Posted by scathcart
This is incorrect. Exhaust pressure > intake pressure. Flow goes from high to low.
Last edited by Blake; 10-12-06 at 12:41 PM.
10-12-06, 12:34 PM
#91
Originally Posted by apexFD
Thank you for all of the exellent information Blake!
On the first page you were mentioning that...
"The retail price of a 13B-REW rotor housing is currently $815.05...EACH! While most established builders get a pretty nice discount from Mazda, you are still looking at over $1,100 per engine, just for the rotor housings on a 13B-REW. Added to the rest of the list if parts necessary to build a quality engine, the engine builder's cost is over $2,000 in parts, let alone all the hours of labor put into dissasembly, parts cleaning, refurbishing re-usable parts, and re-assembly. At $2,800 for a basic rebuild, if we spend more than 10 hours on an engine, we are losing money! This is not counting porting, oil mods, milling rotors or other extra services."
I wasnt clear if in your price of 2800US for the 93-95 Performance Rebuild.(5y/60000 mile warrenty) Are new rotor housings were used in your rebuild on top of everythign else you mentioned that makes a quality rebuild complete. Please correct me if im wrong. Also how does you rebuild process work, do you need the whole car, just the core? As you can tell i am very interested in your company. Thanks again
On the first page you were mentioning that...
"The retail price of a 13B-REW rotor housing is currently $815.05...EACH! While most established builders get a pretty nice discount from Mazda, you are still looking at over $1,100 per engine, just for the rotor housings on a 13B-REW. Added to the rest of the list if parts necessary to build a quality engine, the engine builder's cost is over $2,000 in parts, let alone all the hours of labor put into dissasembly, parts cleaning, refurbishing re-usable parts, and re-assembly. At $2,800 for a basic rebuild, if we spend more than 10 hours on an engine, we are losing money! This is not counting porting, oil mods, milling rotors or other extra services."
I wasnt clear if in your price of 2800US for the 93-95 Performance Rebuild.(5y/60000 mile warrenty) Are new rotor housings were used in your rebuild on top of everythign else you mentioned that makes a quality rebuild complete. Please correct me if im wrong. Also how does you rebuild process work, do you need the whole car, just the core? As you can tell i am very interested in your company. Thanks again
Most customers send us just the core motor to rebuild. We have accounts with a couple of the major truck-freight companies, so shipping is pretty affordable. Turn-around time, at this point, is approximately 2 months. We can do complete jobs, including pulling and reinstalling the engine, but that is on a case-by-case basis when we can fit it into our schedule.
10-12-06, 03:59 PM
#92
Rotary Enthusiast
Wow that is really awesome! I had a good friend of mine who owns a nice s5 TII, he bought a streetported non dowled engine, i think the thing ended up costing him 8000CAD, i dont think it had new rotor housings for taht price, the shop that did it was ForceFed in langley BC, it had a 50000km warrenty, but i think that all it is goign to last... anyways I think i have made up my mind on who is goign to rebuild my engine already.
10-16-06, 08:11 PM
#93
Mazda Remanufactured engines
There is a lot of misleading information floating around on Mazda Remanufactured engines. Some people think they are virtually new engines and other's think they are piles of crap. There was a time when they were not so great but a couple years ago they started puting in a lot of new parts, making them a bargain in some respects.
We have been buying the remanufactured engines from Mazda for quite a while, simply to use as cores for rebuilds. Customer engines are often so blown up that there are few re-usable parts. This is pretty common for FD motors (13B-REWs) that were detonated by running lean, running too much ignition timing or some fatal combo of the two. What we have found is that Mazda DOES put a lot of brand new parts in their rebuilds...far more new parts than is reflected in the ~$2500 price tag. However -- and this is a big one -- they also often put some scary parts in there as well. Keep in mind, we tear them down before ever running them, so we see the parts in the same condition as installed. Lately, the pattern seems that they are installing bearings that are unbelievably bad. Sometimes it's other parts. A while back, we had one FD engine with two different rotor housings...one was a series 4 NA housing, with exhaust diffuser and different leading spark plug location! Generally, though, it's the small stuff like bearings and the big, expensive stuff is almost all brand new. One that came in the other day, in addition to worn out bearing, the flywheel had ALL BUT ONE pressure plate bolt holes filled with sheared-off bolts. How did they not see that?! Instead of extracting them, we just removed the flywheel and put it on the core we were returning.
Our recommendation is to buy the Mazda Remans for the wealth of new parts, tear them down, check everything, replace any bad parts, port, oil mod and re-assemble. I would never just run one out of the box, having seen what they sometimes put in there.
We have been buying the remanufactured engines from Mazda for quite a while, simply to use as cores for rebuilds. Customer engines are often so blown up that there are few re-usable parts. This is pretty common for FD motors (13B-REWs) that were detonated by running lean, running too much ignition timing or some fatal combo of the two. What we have found is that Mazda DOES put a lot of brand new parts in their rebuilds...far more new parts than is reflected in the ~$2500 price tag. However -- and this is a big one -- they also often put some scary parts in there as well. Keep in mind, we tear them down before ever running them, so we see the parts in the same condition as installed. Lately, the pattern seems that they are installing bearings that are unbelievably bad. Sometimes it's other parts. A while back, we had one FD engine with two different rotor housings...one was a series 4 NA housing, with exhaust diffuser and different leading spark plug location! Generally, though, it's the small stuff like bearings and the big, expensive stuff is almost all brand new. One that came in the other day, in addition to worn out bearing, the flywheel had ALL BUT ONE pressure plate bolt holes filled with sheared-off bolts. How did they not see that?! Instead of extracting them, we just removed the flywheel and put it on the core we were returning.
Our recommendation is to buy the Mazda Remans for the wealth of new parts, tear them down, check everything, replace any bad parts, port, oil mod and re-assemble. I would never just run one out of the box, having seen what they sometimes put in there.
10-17-06, 06:41 PM
#94
Tore apart another MANA motor (Mazda remanufactured) and it's another case of it being a gold mine of new parts assembled by idiots. New front and rear plates, new rotor housings, new rotors, new eccentric shaft, new seals...but used main bearings (as always with MANA motors) and someone went crazy with the silicone sealant.
Here are some pics:
They used so much silicone on the oil pan and gasket that it virtually plugged up the oil pan pickup tube. Good thing no one got it that was just going to run it without tearing it down first!
The massive quantity of silicone they used on the pulley hub bolt went *everywhere*, including down the eccentric shaft.
This is the mess they left when helicoiling the oil pan bolt holes in the front cover. Some of the chips were inside the engine. They didn't even bother to wipe off the chips on the outside of the front cover.
Here is one of the used bearings. It actually looks better than usual for a MANA.
Conclusion: If you buy a MANA motor you are getting a great deal on parts but you really should pull it apart and re-assemble it yourself.
Here are some pics:
They used so much silicone on the oil pan and gasket that it virtually plugged up the oil pan pickup tube. Good thing no one got it that was just going to run it without tearing it down first!
The massive quantity of silicone they used on the pulley hub bolt went *everywhere*, including down the eccentric shaft.
This is the mess they left when helicoiling the oil pan bolt holes in the front cover. Some of the chips were inside the engine. They didn't even bother to wipe off the chips on the outside of the front cover.
Here is one of the used bearings. It actually looks better than usual for a MANA.
Conclusion: If you buy a MANA motor you are getting a great deal on parts but you really should pull it apart and re-assemble it yourself.
10-17-06, 07:01 PM
#96
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
All I can say is, wow. I've always recommended customers get their reman torn down so everything can be inspected and clearanced, even without seeing such major oversights.....
10-18-06, 11:29 AM
#98
Originally Posted by fritts
Blake,
Are there any issues running Mazda 3 pc seals with FD corner seals? I am not a fan of the older style plugs as it seems every engine I have taken apart the plugs have been either smashed by the seal or rotated out of position.
Are there any issues running Mazda 3 pc seals with FD corner seals? I am not a fan of the older style plugs as it seems every engine I have taken apart the plugs have been either smashed by the seal or rotated out of position.
10-21-06, 05:41 PM
#99
Rotary Enthusiast
Hi Blake,
Im trying to plan ahead on a few things. Ok, so i am waiting for the FD3S to become 15 years old, so i can import one from japan. The car i will be getting will be in the less than 50 000 mile range. From your aproximation the stock engine will last ~90 000miles, so i will have some time to play with until rebuild. I know i want to go with pineapple because i have not only read but heard a lot of good things, any simply put nobody else conciders NEW rotor housings as part of a standard rebuild. I know there is a 2 month turnaround on your rebuilds, and I take it it is more cost effective to rebuild the engine before it blows and damages itself.
So, my train of thought is as follows...While i drive the 50 000 mile engine that will come stock with the car and while it aproaches a rebuild, i can have another engine ready so once the milage gets in the 'rebuild range' i could simply take one of your rebuilds and install it. Then send the ~90 000 mile core which is not blow, to you guys and have it rebuilt to standard specs with all the reliability mods. Now with that sayed, which route is more cost effective in your opinion....
1.For me to buy a Mazda Remanufacture and strip it down to the core and ship it to your shop for rebuild.....
OR
2.......Since you guys buy Mazda Remaufacture engines. Just buy one of your Remanufactured engines.(hopefully you guys can get them at a discounted price or something) Then get you guys to rebuild it.
Also can a core be stored for extended periods of time( one year) without any damaged. I have heard the apex seals dry out...i dont know the credibility of this statement. I know you sell the intake and exhaust port 'caps', but do these prevent damage? Thanks again for your time, i look forward to your response.
-Ben
Im trying to plan ahead on a few things. Ok, so i am waiting for the FD3S to become 15 years old, so i can import one from japan. The car i will be getting will be in the less than 50 000 mile range. From your aproximation the stock engine will last ~90 000miles, so i will have some time to play with until rebuild. I know i want to go with pineapple because i have not only read but heard a lot of good things, any simply put nobody else conciders NEW rotor housings as part of a standard rebuild. I know there is a 2 month turnaround on your rebuilds, and I take it it is more cost effective to rebuild the engine before it blows and damages itself.
So, my train of thought is as follows...While i drive the 50 000 mile engine that will come stock with the car and while it aproaches a rebuild, i can have another engine ready so once the milage gets in the 'rebuild range' i could simply take one of your rebuilds and install it. Then send the ~90 000 mile core which is not blow, to you guys and have it rebuilt to standard specs with all the reliability mods. Now with that sayed, which route is more cost effective in your opinion....
1.For me to buy a Mazda Remanufacture and strip it down to the core and ship it to your shop for rebuild.....
OR
2.......Since you guys buy Mazda Remaufacture engines. Just buy one of your Remanufactured engines.(hopefully you guys can get them at a discounted price or something) Then get you guys to rebuild it.
Also can a core be stored for extended periods of time( one year) without any damaged. I have heard the apex seals dry out...i dont know the credibility of this statement. I know you sell the intake and exhaust port 'caps', but do these prevent damage? Thanks again for your time, i look forward to your response.
-Ben
10-22-06, 02:57 PM
#100
Originally Posted by apexFD
Hi Blake,
Im trying to plan ahead on a few things. Ok, so i am waiting for the FD3S to become 15 years old, so i can import one from japan. The car i will be getting will be in the less than 50 000 mile range. From your aproximation the stock engine will last ~90 000miles, so i will have some time to play with until rebuild. I know i want to go with pineapple because i have not only read but heard a lot of good things, any simply put nobody else conciders NEW rotor housings as part of a standard rebuild. I know there is a 2 month turnaround on your rebuilds, and I take it it is more cost effective to rebuild the engine before it blows and damages itself.
So, my train of thought is as follows...While i drive the 50 000 mile engine that will come stock with the car and while it aproaches a rebuild, i can have another engine ready so once the milage gets in the 'rebuild range' i could simply take one of your rebuilds and install it. Then send the ~90 000 mile core which is not blow, to you guys and have it rebuilt to standard specs with all the reliability mods. Now with that sayed, which route is more cost effective in your opinion....
1.For me to buy a Mazda Remanufacture and strip it down to the core and ship it to your shop for rebuild.....
OR
2.......Since you guys buy Mazda Remaufacture engines. Just buy one of your Remanufactured engines.(hopefully you guys can get them at a discounted price or something) Then get you guys to rebuild it.
Also can a core be stored for extended periods of time( one year) without any damaged. I have heard the apex seals dry out...i dont know the credibility of this statement. I know you sell the intake and exhaust port 'caps', but do these prevent damage? Thanks again for your time, i look forward to your response.
-Ben
Im trying to plan ahead on a few things. Ok, so i am waiting for the FD3S to become 15 years old, so i can import one from japan. The car i will be getting will be in the less than 50 000 mile range. From your aproximation the stock engine will last ~90 000miles, so i will have some time to play with until rebuild. I know i want to go with pineapple because i have not only read but heard a lot of good things, any simply put nobody else conciders NEW rotor housings as part of a standard rebuild. I know there is a 2 month turnaround on your rebuilds, and I take it it is more cost effective to rebuild the engine before it blows and damages itself.
So, my train of thought is as follows...While i drive the 50 000 mile engine that will come stock with the car and while it aproaches a rebuild, i can have another engine ready so once the milage gets in the 'rebuild range' i could simply take one of your rebuilds and install it. Then send the ~90 000 mile core which is not blow, to you guys and have it rebuilt to standard specs with all the reliability mods. Now with that sayed, which route is more cost effective in your opinion....
1.For me to buy a Mazda Remanufacture and strip it down to the core and ship it to your shop for rebuild.....
OR
2.......Since you guys buy Mazda Remaufacture engines. Just buy one of your Remanufactured engines.(hopefully you guys can get them at a discounted price or something) Then get you guys to rebuild it.
Also can a core be stored for extended periods of time( one year) without any damaged. I have heard the apex seals dry out...i dont know the credibility of this statement. I know you sell the intake and exhaust port 'caps', but do these prevent damage? Thanks again for your time, i look forward to your response.
-Ben
When you are at the point to make decisions, give Rob a call an discuss pricing and options. The shop number is (503) 233-3878.