beqa16v

I say SR20 because its much better for RX7. its a car that has 50/50 weight distribution and very precise handling. with big *** motor like RB26 you are ruining the car TOTALY. the idea is to make RX7 more reliable while trying to keep its original pros. I can not even think of swaping V8 in this car its a disgrace and total destruction of the car. for me RX7 with blown 13b is a better car than with working V8 LS crap. for me personaly, FD3S with SR20DET pushing 300whp is enough. as with this power in SR20, comes more torque compared to rotary. enough for a light car like RX7. car is more than just straightline accelerator.

driftking777

iTrader: (1)

I have Done Sr's swaps and done a ka-t in 240s, depends on what the motor is going to be used for...period. However RB motors will almost most definately be too long of a motor to fit properly with out notching either A) the firewall or B) the radiator support.

I have a ka-t in my FB and even it is a close fit, and the RB is aprox 4 inches longer. Would make for a VERY tight fit for the radiator.

initial D is REAL!

sr20's are cool, but their valvetrain design is really bad, but at the same time, camshafts are cheap because of this. Their block is strong. Its like any other stock 4 cyl turbo engine.

rb26dett comes TT and awd. The axles come out of the oilpan, So you will need to get a rb25det transmission and oilpan. It has stock itb's, solid bucket valvetrain, and other good features.

As far as Nissan engines go, I think the 300zx TT vg30dett is really underrated. There might b clearance issues side to side, but its as cheap as a sr20det setup, possibley cheaper.

rarson

Their valvetrain isn't "bad," it's just not the best design.

Plenty of very capable engines use rocker arms, including the 4g63.

IMO the problem with the SR20 is the short deck height.

initial D is REAL!

Well, its a little differnt than a 4g63 because they use one rocker arm per 2 valves on the sr20. A lot of my friends ended up throwing a rocker arm. They sell rocker arm stoppers, but that just keeps the rocker from shooting a hole through the head. People use the 99+ lifter and rocker design for more reliability or they go solid lifters. The best sr20s are transverse mounted sr20ve and the sr20det gti-r engine. Their valvetrain and ports are a lot better than the older 91 highport engines. Combustion chambers are better too. Sorry, I was a big sr20 geek before I came in here

Iwanna300z

I know his is an old post but... the vg30dett is a underrated motor and can be picked fairly cheap(not off ebay). But a friend and i looked into dropping one into a FC(still might) clearance is a problem, grannysspeedshop's vgv30 kit would work but the drivers side turbo will not clear the steering. There are two options to solve this tho. first make custom manifolds that relocate the turbos either to the front of the motor or top mount. your next option is to do a pass side single turbo, again custom manifolds will need to be made, but a single turbo vg30 can be mean. search joel Grannas on z32power.com also heres a link to a friend of mines. http://300zxclub.com/showthread.php?...highlight=t-70. good luck.

initial D is REAL!

not to mention vg30dett's cost about as much as a sr20det

rotor vs. piston

I overlook this section "other engine swaps" because it's more anoying than informative.

I have a SR20DET in my fb, it's been in for almost a year and a half now. I love it. Why not a TII swap? I would cost the same if not more and all for the same power starting out with. I'm guessing this got moved from the 2nd gen section... right??? In a FC I have no idea of cost or what's involved, but in a FB it's redulously easy only needing basic fabraction and skills. It took less than three months working mainly a few weekends and some late nights during the week from time the engine/tranny was dropped off to the time I was lighting up the tires.

Do I think a SR20DET is better than a rotary... from a "I have to drive it" point of view, absolutly.

I also have a RB25 project going on, not in a Rx though. The engine is pretty freaking big, the wiring sucks as compared to the SR IMO, and I couldn't see it being as clean of a package as a SR in the relitivly tight (length ways) engine bay of a 7.

In short... if it were me knowing what I know about the two engines (Keeping in mind that I have actual experince with both in my own vehicles) I'd go with the SR20DET over any engine other than a LS1 for a Rx7.

*note* spell check has failed me and I'm tried... please forgive me.

Also of note, I had a SBC installed in the same FB before the SR'. All I can say is think long and hard about how the car will be used and where it will be used. Having a huge amount of power is only a fustration if you live an urban area and can never use it. I built the SBC when I live in nowhere NC... I moved to B-more and it almost just sucks the will to drive out of you... the SR is more suited for here... calm (off boost) in the city and whenever I can get by myself it's a hell cat... and I STILL need to do upgrades. The engine/tranny is as it was in a stock blacktop S13, only mods are K&N filter and full 3" exhaust in expectations of an eventual ~350whp... just a nice pleasent number.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

you still need to do that write up

cpubugs

KA24DE or DE t is the way to go. You SR 20 fans liked the first fast and furious too much. It is no where near as reliable, it has less displacement which = less torque, Do some research.... My point? You have to do less to it to support high HP setups than you do to an sr20. Nuff said. just my $.01

initial D is REAL!

the ka24de is a great engine, but the only problem is the aftermarket support for it. Intake manifolds need to be custom, and good exhaust manifolds too. The combustion chamber and ports might not be as advanced as the sr20det gti-r or the sr20/16ve engines. Sr20's have a very big camshaft selection, manifolds and stuff that people can "bolt in" their garages

Other than that, your right, its got more potential from the 2.4L displacement, but people spend big money on aftermarket intakes manfiolds, headers, and porting. There are not a lot of companies selling cams and adj cam gears.

BTW there are a few people machining ka24de cranks to fit sr20 engines, but then you get a really low rod/ stroke ratio

cpubugs

But when the stock components are practically bullet proof You don't need all the bolt-ons... I have had 3 hard bodies with the ka24e and I beat the heck out of them the last one I sold for 1500 and it had 300k on it and it had been wrecked 2 or 3 times. lol It just would not die... From what I understand that the stock components are good for around 300 400 HP with little to no mods.. I'd pick a ka anyday.. But I have noticed the aftermarket support is hard to come by

rotor vs. piston

Haha, I thought I did...

If everything works out I'll be tearing it down for paint late fall/early winter and I'll get so pics of the pieces I modified.

Another thing I like about my work is that I can go back rotary with no issue as I didn't modify the chassis in the least... but why would I downgrade :smile:

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

^^ haha yeah. no i ,meant your more descriptive write up you said youd do for me. i definately need to see pics of all of your stuff. i want to do the subframe swap also so i can go back if i need to, but i probably wont. i only have one problem, billy is introducing that new subframe with R&P and i want it. i just cant figure out how to do the swap and that subframe. billy said hed build a special one for me if i went with a renesis, an idea i was contimplating, but he woulnt be so generous with a piston swap. he has already threatened to disown me

i start college in a couple weeks so money will be tight, but the SA will be nissan fed soon enough. maybe KA24DE at first just so i can get the swap down. then build a SR and throw it in. then maybe throw the KA in my FB for a good DD

88wankelturbo

yea dude putting my sr in my fc.... motor mounts and tranny mount is made....oil pan almost done...driveshaft being made...intercooler piping being fabricated runnin open downpipe till i get an exhaust... also the fuel lines and brake lines need to be moved to the opposite side, after that a tune and turn up the boost and drift the **** outa it

initial D is REAL!

Pictures?

rkcarguy

The RB26DETT is overated and expensive, plus you get a awd tranny you can't use. RB25DET swaps are rwd and can be had for $2500-$4000 depending on where from. The turbo manifold is a standard T3 flange which leaves it wide open for bolt on upgrades. The RB's are cast iron block solid deck factory forged parts. I've done one into a 240SX before, bone stock engine with a t3/t4 hybrid garrett at 13psi saw 340whp and 296 ft/lbs torque, on am-pm premium with daily driver reliability. My next RB swap will be going in a FD.

veilsideS14

Where did you get that idea from?



Plus, I beg to differ on the RB26 being overrated. The RB26 is Godzilla for a reason. Do your homework before making a statement like this. The reason you would go RB25 is because you can't afford the RB26 so don't talk it down just to make your decision easier to swallow.

initial D is REAL!

Yeah rb26 is a lot better, but also a lot more money. It might be just as cheap to go 20b than go rb26. You guys are making me feel poor