Other Engine Conversions - non V-8 Discussion of non-rotary engines, exc V-8's, in a car originally powered by a Rotary Engine.

KA24DE in FC

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Old 01-29-10, 01:29 AM
  #26  
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i had a s13 with s14 ka dick loads better tq and hp been way more reliable then my fc with only 75k thats why im doing the swap
Old 02-01-10, 12:07 AM
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mazda mario

 
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do the swap cause the guys on here talk that ka dont last thats bull they last even boosted for a long time. i have a buddy that has a 456whp 17psi ka-t of course it built but on the 248 exh cams, bottom end has everything needed

i've personly seen stock ka on 10psi last for ever and he is still driving it and make 260 whp and 320wtq

is just their friends dont know how to maintain a car.
Old 02-01-10, 12:43 PM
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whats a Turbo V?

 
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well man if i get a chance to hit LKQ ill tell you about any KA24DE's or CA20E's a CA20E with CA18DET head yummy
Old 02-16-10, 08:26 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mario1386
do the swap cause the guys on here talk that ka dont last thats bull they last even boosted for a long time. i have a buddy that has a 456whp 17psi ka-t of course it built but on the 248 exh cams, bottom end has everything needed

i've personly seen stock ka on 10psi last for ever and he is still driving it and make 260 whp and 320wtq

is just their friends dont know how to maintain a car.
I agree with this.

Alot of people say nissan engines suck because they spin bearings.

Why do they spin bearings?

1. oil sloshes away from the pickup starving the engine of oil (i've rod knocked a car once due to this and not keeping up with my oil level)

2. Piston ring gap is **** causing fuel and other crap to break down the oil super fast. Increased wear on the bearings, lower oil pressure....all that jazz. Recipe for failure.

3. If the motor was rebuild, see above. Also look into "not clearancing bearings properly, checking the crankshaft with a micrometer....." You know, the usual fuckups.




Currently, my rotary is getting done up me-style. All bullshit from underhood is being pulled out, cooling mods up the ***. Still saving up some money for an oil pan baffle and oil pan brace kit..... Also going to be running dual oil coolers, aluminum rad..... Just whatever i can do to increase cooling efficiency and keep the engine oiled and that should be done with any car you intend to beat the **** out of. BUILD IT TO TAKE WHAT YOU DISH OUT. COVER ALL THE BASES.



All said in done, i'm probably not doing the swap now. I wanted to, i also wanted a 1j, rb20, sr20...etc...... Either getting the engine was a problem, the price went up since i last checked or outside circumstances prevented me from doing what i wanted.

Rotary is easier. I'm just going to do my best to build my **** bulletproof. I was worried about fuel consumption and added stress from boost but i shouldn't be drifting if i'm that worried about spending money for gas or a popped engine from poor tuning. IF i pop an engine from poor tuning, i deserve to pay out the *** to fix it.

Maybe in a few years, i'll do something cool. In the mean time, i just want to drive my fc. I've put less than 10 miles on it in it's year and a half time parked in my driveway. Not a fan of bullshit and headaches and that's all trying to swap my car has been so i spent my tax refund on a crapload of other stuff to still make the car awesome and something i can be proud of and have faith in to take on long trips.
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