Originally Posted by PerroCaliente
(Post 12043575)
So by putting the fpr and return like close to the tank it heats up the fuel less? Also I guess you can tune the ecu to work with a return system obviously.
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Originally Posted by 30mpgfc
(Post 12043578)
Well I don't think there is a fuel pressure sensor on the rail so I think the ECU just send preprogrammed commands to a fuel system computer for certain conditions. Basically unless it's leaning out the ECU won't know a difference. It would probably throw a code for lack of communication with a fuel control module.
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Originally Posted by PerroCaliente
(Post 12043634)
Wait the newer mustangs don't have a fuel pressure sensor? That's interesting. My old 2000 Mustang returnless system does. Weird.
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Sorry for late response I was outta the country for a minute.
Yes, it is as 30mpgfc said. I run 55psi static and no vacuum/boost reference. This is as per Justin's recommendation at LPFbuilt.com and he's the expert I assure. I do not run the fuel control module and it's not needed. It does quite a bit of functions but mostly to tank pressures and emissions. I'm sure my emissions are well below what the factory RX7 engine did back in the day. Cheers |
Originally Posted by mach.80
(Post 12043859)
Sorry for late response I was outta the country for a minute.
Yes, it is as 30mpgfc said. I run 55psi static and no vacuum/boost reference. This is as per Justin's recommendation at LPFbuilt.com and he's the expert I assure. I do not run the fuel control module and it's not needed. It does quite a bit of functions but mostly to tank pressures and emissions. I'm sure my emissions are well below what the factory RX7 engine did back in the day. Cheers |
Originally Posted by mach.80
(Post 12043859)
Sorry for late response I was outta the country for a minute.
Yes, it is as 30mpgfc said. I run 55psi static and no vacuum/boost reference. This is as per Justin's recommendation at LPFbuilt.com and he's the expert I assure. I do not run the fuel control module and it's not needed. It does quite a bit of functions but mostly to tank pressures and emissions. I'm sure my emissions are well below what the factory RX7 engine did back in the day. Cheers |
Originally Posted by 30mpgfc
(Post 12009053)
Bought a 2012 mt82 W/64k mi a couple weeks ago for $186 W/tax. The bolt holes all match except for two on the oil pan. The pan looks like a pair of ugly tits so I might have to source a stang/f150 pan. Got an end of the year bonus this week so I'll check my bills and if possible pickup a new valve cover and front+rear main seals.https://i.imgur.com/YlKYYQx.jpg
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Originally Posted by PerroCaliente
(Post 12043930)
Where did you source your motor and trans from for so cheap? Or how do you find them? I've looked online and can't find anything less than a grand basically
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If you are seriously considering this swap you're going to need $5-$10k, adequate welding and electrical skills. Also a bit of enginuity. For a cheaper route on the mt82 ID suggest the 2013 GT flywheel and clutch. From what I understand you'll need a one inch spacer for the slave cylinder and smaller flywheel bolts(I think the FWD flexplate bolts are short enough). The stock 3.7/mt82 flywheel costs over $700 from Ford and is a heavy dual mass POS, GT is $177. If you cannot source wiring from your engine supplier you can get it from ford, not sure on the price, expect to pay $150-$800. For fuel ID suggest the walboro 450lph, has a bit more pai rating than the stock ford unit but way more lph. Also the 450 is e85 compatible if you want to go that route. I'd suggest an aeromotive universal fpr rated at 30-70psi. The 450 might be a bit much for the fpr but I'm not sure. You'll definitely need a driveshaft shop to custom make you a driveshaft.
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Originally Posted by 30mpgfc
(Post 12043939)
If you are seriously considering this swap you're going to need $5-$10k, adequate welding and electrical skills. Also a bit of enginuity. For a cheaper route on the mt82 ID suggest the 2013 GT flywheel and clutch. From what I understand you'll need a one inch spacer for the slave cylinder and smaller flywheel bolts(I think the FWD flexplate bolts are short enough). The stock 3.7/mt82 flywheel costs over $700 from Ford and is a heavy dual mass POS, GT is $177. If you cannot source wiring from your engine supplier you can get it from ford, not sure on the price, expect to pay $150-$800. For fuel ID suggest the walboro 450lph, has a bit more pai rating than the stock ford unit but way more lph. Also the 450 is e85 compatible if you want to go that route. I'd suggest an aeromotive universal fpr rated at 30-70psi. The 450 might be a bit much for the fpr but I'm not sure. You'll definitely need a driveshaft shop to custom make you a driveshaft.
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Originally Posted by PerroCaliente
(Post 12043940)
Also how are you handling the clutch setup? And you need a fuel pump with that much capacity? Dang.
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Originally Posted by 30mpgfc
(Post 12043941)
I plan on turbocharging after about a year, so the upgraded fuel pump will help in the long run.
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Originally Posted by PerroCaliente
(Post 12043943)
Yea I'm basically just trying to get a Complete idea of what's necessary to do this parts wise and how it all goes together. I don't think I mentioned it but I actually own a 2000 Mustang and I want to swap this engine into it but the Ford community is not much help. Only one guy ever tried and his build stalled out. So I came here to learn from you guys how all of this goes together.
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You'll need the motor, trans, ECU, harness, probably custom motor & trans mounts and you'd have to find your own options for driveshaft. The 6r80 option might be better for you as you won't be limited by shift position.
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Originally Posted by 30mpgfc
(Post 12043951)
You'll need the motor, trans, ECU, harness, probably custom motor & trans mounts and you'd have to find your own options for driveshaft. The 6r80 option might be better for you as you won't be limited by shift position.
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Originally Posted by 30mpgfc
(Post 12043864)
So an adjustable FPR without vacuum? Like a distributor without vac advance?
I'm finishing the details on the water lines and and other small details and should have dyno numbers within a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, with the 4.10:1 rear diff gear, It'll skew the dyno numbers a little low. I will most likely try a 5th gear run to see if that will correct the issue. Either way, we'll see. As of now I'm playing the waiting game on parts. |
Originally Posted by mach.80
(Post 12045509)
Yes. Your tuner will calibrate your fuel injectors accordingly.
I'm finishing the details on the water lines and and other small details and should have dyno numbers within a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, with the 4.10:1 rear diff gear, It'll skew the dyno numbers a little low. I will most likely try a 5th gear run to see if that will correct the issue. Either way, we'll see. As of now I'm playing the waiting game on parts. |
i'm surprised that there are so many swap kits on the net , and v8 would look amazing but i really want mazda engine , and the 3.7l v6 with 300 stock hp seems great , i have no need for more than 400, 450 whp so a v8 that gets super expensive to swap and almost as bad mpg as the rotary , but at this point ,before starting the build, iīm open to any possibilities and the swap kits available are a good option to consider, but to my surprise there aren't any swaps for mazda engines considering that they have good engines and that they are working with ford on those engines why not use one
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so i have a 1991 turbo II with a POS engine and no mechanics who can repair it , i live in Portugal and itīs not exactly a rotary friendly place so unfortunately i have to swap the engine for something else and iīm planning a swap with a 3.7l v6 from other mazda models but actually a cyclone (FORD) engine , i want to stay with mazda engines , kinda, and this looks like a good choice , but iīm planning on doing it with the stock gearbox and rear end to keep it as close to original as possible and not have problems with shifter placement and i do like the way that gearbox feels when driving, the car only has 110,000 kilometers, thatīs 68.000 miles and the gearbox looks perfect , as for the setup i already have a intercooler kit, iīm using twin garretīs gt 28īs and a haltech ecu , the wheels are momo racing 17" 245 in the back and 225 in front, if anybody has advice for me i would be thankful,
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Originally Posted by Cristiano Dos Santos
(Post 12053126)
so i have a 1991 turbo II with a POS engine and no mechanics who can repair it , i live in Portugal and itīs not exactly a rotary friendly place so unfortunately i have to swap the engine for something else and iīm planning a swap with a 3.7l v6 from other mazda models but actually a cyclone (FORD) engine , i want to stay with mazda engines , kinda, and this looks like a good choice , but iīm planning on doing it with the stock gearbox and rear end to keep it as close to original as possible and not have problems with shifter placement and i do like the way that gearbox feels when driving, the car only has 110,000 kilometers, thatīs 68.000 miles and the gearbox looks perfect , as for the setup i already have a intercooler kit, iīm using twin garretīs gt 28īs and a haltech ecu , the wheels are momo racing 17" 245 in the back and 225 in front, if anybody has advice for me i would be thankful,
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Originally Posted by Cristiano Dos Santos
(Post 12053126)
so i have a 1991 turbo II with a POS engine and no mechanics who can repair it , i live in Portugal and itīs not exactly a rotary friendly place so unfortunately i have to swap the engine for something else and iīm planning a swap with a 3.7l v6 from other mazda models but actually a cyclone (FORD) engine , i want to stay with mazda engines , kinda, and this looks like a good choice , but iīm planning on doing it with the stock gearbox and rear end to keep it as close to original as possible and not have problems with shifter placement and i do like the way that gearbox feels when driving, the car only has 110,000 kilometers, thatīs 68.000 miles and the gearbox looks perfect , as for the setup i already have a intercooler kit, iīm using twin garretīs gt 28īs and a haltech ecu , the wheels are momo racing 17" 245 in the back and 225 in front, if anybody has advice for me i would be thankful,
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I'd say, from Portugal, and your English is that good? That's amazing! There's no chance he's a 15yr old with vocabulary, punctuation and grammar all spot on in ESL.
Nevertheless, my build is held up by water lines. Hopefully they will come in soon. 30mpg, the ratios are: FORD...1st=4.17...2nd=2.34...3rd=1.52...4th=1.14.. .5th=0.86...6th=0.69 MAZDA.1st=3.48...2nd=2.15...3rd=1.39...4th=1.00... 5th=0.76............... So, if you compair to the FC trans it covers a wider range. Once I change the rear to the 8.8, I'll go to a 3.30 or so rear gear. also to answer another question, yes, I do have manual shift mode. Back to Cristiano, my recommendation is to swap your vehicle with a engine that has better support. For example the Roninspeedworks.com FC to LS swap. This IS you best bet. As far as I know, there is only one successful 3.7 swap. And I had lots of help. By the way has anyone seen my hood??? and you still want to swap??? Its a monster! And your ok with that??? Let me know for real . |
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By the way you could NOT bring down the engine any more. The oil pan will hit the steering rack.
As you can see in the pic the oil pan is level with the subframe. I did lowered my subframe 3/4" with spacers. So far I haven't noticed any difference in handling what so ever. Xcessive Front Frame Spacers for Mazda RX7 FC3S - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC There is a 2JZ-GTE swap part for lowering the subframe which is 1" Its well thought out and cheep enough. I do however, want to go and make a subframe to chassis undercar X brace. Hopefully now that I have finished up some job advancement tasks, I'll finally get to a build sheet thread that'll answer any qusetions and kinda archive whats been done here. Cheers, Joe |
so , no iīm not 15 , iīm 37 and my english is good because i lived in england, france and belgium before coming back to portugal, i left portugal after 4 years in the army and had a opportunity to work in england, by the way miss daisy and mcm donīt really go together
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Originally Posted by Cristiano Dos Santos
(Post 12053276)
so , no iīm not 15 , iīm 37 and my english is good because i lived in england, france and belgium before coming back to portugal, i left portugal after 4 years in the army and had a opportunity to work in england, by the way miss daisy and mcm donīt really go together
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