Originally Posted by Wicked93gs
(Post 11974444)
If HP can really delete PATS and the need for all the additional modules, I will rethink using megasquirt myself...I will be interested in seeing the results. Also...it would allow the engine harness to be minimized...because right now its a monster of a harness.
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Originally Posted by Wicked93gs
(Post 11971508)
Not yet...wiring and MS aettings are the easy part....I just now reached the point I can make engine mounts. It was an insane amount of cutting. Even the starter location gave me a headache...had to make a pocket for it to sit in.http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...pszcfm9yud.jpg
The FC makes for a much easier chasis to work with. |
Can't wait to see.
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5 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by mach.80
(Post 11975094)
Can't wait to see.
Attachment 620067 Attachment 620068 replaced the single piston calipers with 4 piston calipers. O'rilly's took the single calipers as cores for the quads, lol. also got the calipers @ $30 a piece. Attachment 620069 missing that little bump guard plastic, other than that the shell is near perfect. Attachment 620070 supposidly rebuilt 13b. I did a compression test and got 60 on the rear and 90 on the front. That was cold with no oil in the combustion chamber though... I have since put the motor back in the car. Hope to find time to put everything back together and get her running as a backup in the event my 260k mi Corolla gives me any issues. Got a local who wants to buy the motor when I start my swap. Funny thing is he'll probably give me more for the 13b than what I have got my 3.7l price quoted for($375+tax):lol: |
$375? Damn, I miss living in FL, cheap parts everywhere...my duratec 37 cost me $1200...same for the MT82...but then to be fair they did come from a 10k mile wrecked mustang too.
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That's great. $375! That is a steal and one of the good things about this motor their not considered
high performance like the 5.0 but making 305hp and 30+mpg that's high output for sure. It'll be nice not to have a dinosaur in my car anymore. Some have said,"Why are you ditching the rotary"? And I say "until Mazda makes a new one, I'll enjoy a little technology for a while". I too have not come out of pocket for my swap. However, like you, I am using my own labor. |
Yes I paid $2400 for both the 3.7 and the 6R80.
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Originally Posted by Wicked93gs
(Post 11975362)
$375? Damn, I miss living in FL, cheap parts everywhere...my duratec 37 cost me $1200...same for the MT82...but then to be fair they did come from a 10k mile wrecked mustang too.
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Aside from cost, the 3.5L is too much work with the direct injection being the limiting factor.
The 3.7 is everywhere and in everything including base f 150 s. The guys over here at Limitless Performance (LPFbuilt.com) are doing some amazing stuff, including the 3.7L v6. You can see a tiny bit of the Killer 6 mustang out there on youtube. |
Attempted to start her up. We got all power, accelerator/throttle body responded, we got spark.
Unfortunately, the injectors were not responding. With some carb spray we got some sign of life though. It seems as if were still in the beta testing for the "standalone" programming. ...Stay tuned. |
Its not initial startup and running I would be worried about tuning with megasquirt...should be fairly easy to make it run...just like any other v6 using a 36-1 wheel. The real fun begins when you start playing with the cam sensors and cam phasers to try to make the factory 300HP out of it. I wish I wasnt working 6 days a week right now...I would love to get back to work on the Miata.
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Originally Posted by Wicked93gs
(Post 11978480)
Its not initial startup and running I would be worried about tuning with megasquirt...should be fairly easy to make it run...just like any other v6 using a 36-1 wheel. The real fun begins when you start playing with the cam sensors and cam phasers to try to make the factory 300HP out of it. I wish I wasnt working 6 days a week right now...I would love to get back to work on the Miata.
Cheers |
Ah...you said standalone programming. Wonder why the injectors werent firing, I think its still some residual issue from PATs..such a PITA system.
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Just figured out injector power and she starts but dies right away.
One more step closer. |
Running!
Making turbo kit, begins today. |
Just to clarify you took a factory 3.7l ECU, sent it to a tuner who was able to delete PATS? What all is required? ECU obviously...and the drive by wire pedal...both engine harnesses? Did you have to use the fusebox and cluster? I want more details on exactly what is needed.
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Yes, we used the factory PCM(ecu), we sent it to Eric at HP Tuners who deleted the pats and whatever magic he did.
We are using the Factory PCM, drive-by-wire pedal from mustang, Engine harness is untouched. I am using the 6R80 auto trans. So you will need the harness to go with that. The trans harness has many things in it that need to be utilized and I'm sure it's the same in the standard trans as well. I also have the shifter from a 2011 Lincoln MKZ. you can use a mustang shifter but the mkz cuts down nicely and fits in the FC3S shifter hole clearing the driveshaft, again this is an auto shifter mechanism. Lastly, where all the difficult work comes into play, you'll need the fuse box and all wires that are in the Mustang engine bay. My salvage yard cut the harness just as it goes into the fire wall on the drivers firewall leaving the brake fluid level harness last on my harness. This proved to be an issue since I needed the harness to the pedal and shifter and the OBD2. SO I had to go back and buy these pigtails from them at a premium. So, avoid this and get the entire fuse box harness intact as best as possible. More details to come. |
Did you end up having to use the cluster? Thats the sticking point for me...I cant make it fit the Miata cluster housing worth anything...so if I dont have to use it, this would be a great solution. I would only have to buy the fuse box(and associated harness), ECU and drive by wire pedal...I already have the other harnesses.
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No the cluster is not necessary.
I am however using an Acura Integra Speedo movement and keeping the Factory appearance. |
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=199.0 Go half way down the page to see it installed with the FC faceplate.
But if you have an electrical Speedo in the Miata, then you should be good. |
my car is at LPFbuilt.com
2 Attachment(s)
Turbo Teaser
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Originally Posted by mach.80
(Post 11985359)
Turbo Teaser
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2 Attachment(s)
Got some real good progress last night.
Unfortunately, SEMA will delay the project about another week. Just need to finish the downpipe and wastegate. In the meanwhile, these pics should keep you glued. |
So what was it that stopped you from mounting the engine lower in the FC chasis? It looks from the pics like you might have been able to drop it another inch or so.
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Steering rack is only 1/4 from the oil pan.
I would have to relocate the rack and bump steer would have been unavoidable. I could have cut the firewall and moved the engine back more, but this is my daily driver and not a racecar. I did however, lower the subframe 7/8 of an inch. What I considered a good compromise. |
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