Any updates guys?
My 7 has been up and driving and I'm working on the hood today.
I'll be getting it tuned within the next few weeks.
THEN IT'S TIME TO PAINT!
Here is where the hood is so far. It's a tall engine. I plan on adding some
Vents on the side of the cowl, probably the 15' mustang vents.

Only update I got is a new valve cover and front+ rear main seals.($113 total from ford)
Attachment 753087
Had to do a trackjob on a komatsu 30px so I've been kind of busy lately. Plus my boss is talking about trying to get me a truck/fuel card etc to make me a travelling heavy equipment mechanic. Aka moar $ :D

Oh, something you'd be interested in 30mpgfc.
I'm averaging 25mpg city. Turbo'd but not boosting and in an simi-untuned state.
If you really want 30mpg you can get it, but I think you'll eventually need a lower rear gear.

haha, almost forgot... ... I'm running E85.

E85 is probably dropping 1-2mpg for you, especially in stop and go traffic. The option I was going to go with was an 8.8IRS swap with new 272 gears. It would change 1st from a granny gear and make 6th basically an OD gear as top out mathematically would be 178mph but ~300 would never reach that. If my guesstimations are close 0-60 na should be around 3.7-4.1 seconds with high 12s on the ¼ and max speed around 152. On a different note, I ordered a Mustang oil pan and I'll pick it up tomorrow afternoon. I'll order my tivct solenoid, thermostat, water pump and pilot bearing Friday. One thing that really has me worried, which i haven't bother to check, is if the crankshaft has been bored for a pilot bushing -.-

Well at WOT I use almost 30% more fuel.
So, at normal cruising I'd say it's safe to say 10-15% economy loss. Maybe more.

I'll do the 8.8 if I either:
1) Stay in Texas
or
2) Break my Rear end or LSD

28 city is still better than the stang lol. I will be interested in the numbers once you get her dialed in with a few passes.

Few updates:Attachment 752977 new oil pan and hoisted the engine on the stand.
Here's a few pictures of the car incase I never posted any.Attachment 752978Attachment 752979Attachment 752980
BTW, I'm sooooo ISO that little bump guard piece after the passenger door. I also found out the ECU was never connected when I compression tested it.

Yeah good call on the oil pan. The last one would have never worked.
You have a very strait car. paint that thing with "Hot Rod" #1116 BMW Alpine White and your done!
Hot Rod Flatz

Yeah, I felt like I was getting a steal with this rx7. The only rust I've seen so far is around the moon roof, I might get it replaced with flat steel if it's not repairable. Broke my phone today.
Edit: car was $800+TX etc. 2 vert wheels and 4 tires with 80% tread was $100 and I picked up a set of 4 piston calipers with pads for $76ish from O'Reilly's.

I wish I lifted my car before I bought it. I found it on 4 flat tires and covered in pine needles. It was dark when I bought mine (bad move). Thought it had a clack interior, the guy rattle canned it black. Though the body was straight, it looked like he took it curb jumping. The pinch welds were flat front to back with big dents in the rocker panels. Your'e car is nice and clean. I'm jelly.

My pinch welds are fairly clean, minus some slight bending because or improper scissor jack placement. I too had the unfortunate know-how of buying a car at night, an '85 CRX, it lasted maybe 13k miles lol.

OK so I've had some family drama and we're getting swamped at work so I set back my completion date to mid July. I'm gonna be on 50-60hr weeks for the next 6months/year. Something I did find out that is going to save me a couple $, the GT flywheel & clutch works with my engine/tranny combo which will save me a lot compared to the dualmass 3.7 flywheel($781 from Ford). Only issue with that is I need a spacer for my slave/release bearing. Hopefully after bills I will have enough $ to move my car this weekend.

Sorry about the set backs, but we all know how that WILL happen in every project. Haha
I got a couple things done this week too. Here's the progress.

Ssexy guarge cluster, two S's cuz it's super sexy.

Thanks bud. Its a tablet using the Torque app and an OBDlink LX adapter. I'm still
working on the auto boot and shutdown for the tablet though. Heavy Android stuff is outta my
comfort zone.
I just have to make a carbon fiber trim to fill the surrounding gap between the tablet sides and
the gauge bezel.

Also the brakes are the Ronin upgrade kit with Mustang Cobra rotors from Raybestos.
I'm working on upgrading the rears too, but we'll see. More for cosmetics but why not?

I really need to start a build thread. So, I might do that this week since I'm recovering from a minor surgery.

Minor surgery? Got snipped? Lol

Naw, but in the region.

Ouch

This weekend goals:
Move the rx7 to the location of the engine+ transmission.
Cut, extend & weld existing oil pump filler neck/sump whatever you call it.
Possible attempt to start on the existing 13b prior to removal.
Possibly ordering my flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate.
Rust maintenance on my moon roof.
Checkout existing exhaust path for 3.7 exhaust placement and future remote turbo location.
Possible removal of 13b&tranny, bay clean up and rattlecan paint(spilled brake fluid & ate paint+battery tray is non existent.)

Thought you might like some updated engine bay pics.
Still have to do the details and cleaning but you can use your imagination where it's going.

I smoothed out the ribs off of intake manifold. And crinkle coated out black for a factory look.

Hey I'd really like to pick your brain for hours about this swap but I been wondering what did you do for fueling? I know normally these 3.7 engines use a returnless system right?

I asked Mach.80 the same question, here was his reply:
Fuel system is super simple.
Fuel pump goes right in the FPR and return line goes strait in the fuel tank. Short return line.
Then the outlet of the FPR runs up to the engine with a Russell fitting to the factory rails.
That's it and it works.
Basically by your tank you install a fpr, the output of the fpr goes to the single input line on the motor, return to return. Only issue with that system I can see is a drop in vac because of fpr location. You might need a hard-line made.

I'm having a little trouble understanding forgive me. I thought the return lines normally came from the fuel rail? So if i'm understanding you the return is coming off the regulator and then going back into the tank? With his setup you would have to run a vaccuum line line all the way back to the FRP. Unless I misunderstood and the frp is up by the engine?

Normally yes, the fpr is on a rail if the ECU doesn't automatically control the fuel pressure via a fuel controller. The position of the fpr doesn't really matter as long as it is functioning correctly and doesn't impead flow to the injectors, which is why it is usually post injectors. The reason the ECU controls the fuel on the 3.7 is because the hot engine bay temperatures effect E85 somehow making a return system damaging to the fuel.
If you think of the fuel system as a bike tire and the fpr like a pin prick hole, where the hole is at doesn't really matter because the pressure is going to escape through there.

So by putting the fpr and return line close to the tank it heats up the fuel less? Also I guess you can tune the ecu to work with a return system obviously.