tnt

Has anybody ever seen it done and if so does anybody have any pics....

Shaun

twint78

no point in doing it.it would put out the same hp per lag.proven in a mag.and is just as unreliable at those numbers.

scratchjunkie

i dont like that idea

Nathan Kwok

Too long to really fit. Of course, you can fit just about anything with enough work, but a V8 would fit a lot better. Really there's no point in sticking anything else but a V8 into the FD; like twin said, I4s aren't going to have any real advantages even though they fit, because by the time you make the custom subframe, rebuild the engine to support high HP, get the programmable engine computer, and bolt on the turbo, you might as well have just gotten the std bolt-ons on the 13BREW and have 350HP and thousands leftover. Making 350HP from any 2.0l I4 isn't going to be that reliable either. I6s are too long. Really the V8 is the only thing that fits, and so far there is only one working FD that I know of that has a V8 (Bill Hagen's). Jim's should be working by spring though... of 2008.

neo_omega

why not just a 3 rotors?

yy4u

only engine swaps worht doin in an FD are 20B and V8, anything else will have too many fitment issues that the cost will far outweigh the gains. Just my $0.02

rpm_pwr

Show me a 500RWHP SR20DET and I'll show you an engine that has a week to live. Australia seems to be SR20DET capital of the world, but out of all the GTiR's Silvia's, 200SX's, 180SX's, Sileighty's I've seen one thing remains common - anything over 300rwhp and you have an absolute pig.

Why would you want LESS capacity? SR20's have that harsh valvetrain noise and they sound AWFUL. Hell, I drove one this morning and then changed cars to my FD. At no stage did I think, yeah I want to put that little 4 banger in my FD. I could see how a 13B-REW powered GTiR would be fun though.... hmmmm...

-pete

kkekeisen

If people are openly suggesting to put any piston engine in the 7, why was there so much greif about the supra7???

I, personally, think that there shouldn't be anything but a rotary under the 7's hood, but if I were to transplant a boinger it'd be the 2jz...talk about power potential check out the top ten power makers on www.to4R.com

kyle

OptusX4

I dunno... I think jimlab's V8 conversion would walk all over the supra7, or any other 2JZ incarnations... If I HAD to put a piston engine in a 7, I think I'd go the same route.

twint78

saying a rotary only belongs in the seven is being close minded.the body was just what mazda created for the engine.hell it could have been something like geo metro.a body is a body.and an engine is an engine.the only thing i say about transplants is know what u r looking into first.for that matter i should have my v8 3rd gen up and running by next week.i started this friday.

MazdaMike

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooo. .............

yy4u

2jz is an inline 6 significantly longer than a chevy smallblock V8. You can keep most of the weight behind the axle, for better weight distribution and still maintain a lot of the go-cart feel of the 7. I'm pretty sure Jim can explain all of this better than anyone, but a chevy smallblock with forged internals has all the same or more potential as the 2jz for a similar price, IMO.

tnt

I just am not a big fan of my 13brew i am making 405 rear wheel on my dyno(mustang not dynojet) i did everything in house except build the motor because i am mainly a honda/nissan shop ie piston motors and are more comfortable with them the reason i am going with an sr20 is because you can make 400 on a stock bottom end and over 500 fairly reliable, and still fit OK... either way if any body is interested i have a fully built 13brew that was was built by marcus williams for sale i want 2800 and it comes as a complete longblock with 1350 secondaries and 55 primaries stainless lines on all the rails, no harness because i ran a haltech but i will give you a stock ecu if you need it, the tranny is also available with an act clutch and an SFP single turbo manifold all parts have less than 2.5k on them and are in excellent condition.....

Shaun

RyanREX

RX7=rotary!

Destroy

DUDE! putting a piston motor in a RX-7 is sacriligous!

paw140

So are you saying that you are doing the V8 swap in 2 weeks? I didn't think it was that easy...

twint78

yup.if i had everything as far as supplies goes i could have it done in a week.where did u hear it would take longer.i had everything pulled apart in 1 1/2 days.

dude putting a piston motor is sacriligious.<---gay and echoed.guess what.all that extra money u spend blowing motors tryin to drive 450hp turboed rotary i will equal it and deposit in my acct.cuz my engine wont need a rebuild for well.............awhile.u know what makes it worse.it is number like 342 and it is an r1.it would also be nice to know if it was one of the first r1's to roll off the line.even more sacriligious.too bad its not cym only 250 made.as where mine was only a vintage red.

but hey tnt let me know how it comes i think it would be cool.

rotorbrain

dude, youre sick!!!! its people like you and your ignorant mind that make the rx-7 community poor. . . not that it is at all. it has been proven that rotary engines ARE reliable. time over time and again. there is nothing to change on a rotary engine. it HAS the stock bottom end on every rebuild. . . i.e. stock e-shaft, stock rotors, and stock whole ******* block you chode!!!! yeah, some people put 3mm seals in it, but your probably gonna upgrade your rings and lower them too. come on man.. .. get a clue and do some REAL research.

sorry, for getting rude... but you have no ground to say that the rotary engine is unreliable. it is all in the tuning, baby!!!! remember that!!!

paul

jspecracer7

I've seen rebuilds cost less than $300 here in Japan...that's WITH porting. Those same engine's I've seen last well over a year until the next $300 rebuild....and the engine port/build/swap took a whole 3 days.

...so that's $600 for 2 years?...show me a V-8 that can do that...

M.Piedlourde

Do you mean $600 for two years of trouble-free operation before another rebuild is needed?

If that's the case, I can show you TONS of V-8s that do that. Ever heard of the LT1 or LS1? It's been proven over and over that the modern Chevy smallblocks can go for hundreds of thousands of miles without needing any rebuild. GM generally builds pretty ****-poor CARS (except maybe for the C5), but they're pretty good at powerplants.

So, does $0 for 2 years sound better than $600?

jspecracer7

trouble free?...not including blowing up diff's/half shafts/cracking PPF's then yes

REBUILT FOR $600. so you can do a rebuild for how much?

tnt

different strokes for different folks, i personally would never put a V8 in my fd but, i am putting an SR20, because i love the car just not the powerplant, to me it is just like dropping in a 20b it is not original to the car but so what, what ever floats your boat, to me there is no clear this is better than that..... I think that honda makes the best motor because my drag car puts down 565 at the wheels and has not been rebuilt in over 2 years, zero problems..... It doesn't mean someone else has not had a ton of problems with thier 300hp honda.... People do not be so closed minded about trying different things in FD's, you never know you might like it....

Shaun

M.Piedlourde

The point I'm trying to make is that a V-8 is much, MUCH less likely to NEED a rebuild. Show me scores of LT1/LS1 Corvettes and Camaros that are for sale and have things in the ad like "only 3000 miles on rebuild/new engine!" and then we can talk.

And yes, you're right. It's almost impossible to get a rebuild done on a V-8 for $600. When you don't -need- a rebuild every 2 years, though, your total cost ends up being $0.

twint78

ok um first rotorbrain.im not ignorant.ur lowering of urself by namecalling is childish and yes ignorant.instead of having a mature conversation.

um stock bottom end?extra pinning is stock bottom.and yes i know about tuning.i know that stock 2mm seal can handle up to 25-lbs of if tuned properly.and that is "if".u screw up ur engine is roasted right away.a lt1 is more forgivable.

having to replace an engine every 60-100k miles is reliable.man get off the crack.12a's are reliable yes.13b's are reliable yes.13bt's and 13b rew's are not.if thats so i wouldnt see so many threads about blowing an engine up.or coolant seal went bad.like mine after 18k miles.gay.

rebuild's for 300 huh every yr?wow that must be great,but it is still not proving the point of reliability.blowing halfshafts,and ppf,and diff's?all the time.when is this?this must be coming from all that power at idle all the way to the redline,and torque.ive not heard of too much ppl blowing their rear ends out all the time.

ok rotary reliability issues:
blown seal-full engine tear down(this can be on stock motor too)
overheating
boost lag
over heating
blowing diff's(high hp rotaries do this also)
easy detonation
retailers smart enuff to be in this business,cuz they can charge u an *** load to tune.
coolant seal failure
blowing intercooler pipes

v8 reliability issues:
rear ends,very high hp app's
umm....
valvetrain float
hmmm

help me out here im dying?

Flybye

Sure...
Blown head gaskets - which can cause a large enough mixtore of oil and water to render connecting rod bushings useless
Overrevving breakins connecting rod then goes shooting through block
Excessive pinging causes connecting rod bearing to go south
Crank shaft cracks in half
Defective oil pump causes entire engine to freeze
Timg belt breaks causing piston to shoot through a valve (depending on tolerances of engine)
Valve seals set improperly causing excessive oil consumption and heat which may cause valve stem falure which will then lead to a bouncing valve within the combustion chamber and rebuild required
Freeze plug becomes loose

Anyhting else?