Fd Sr20det
10-23-02, 10:06 AM
#26
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I started this thread to know if anybody had done the swap that i am working on, in hope of some useful info, however i remember why i do not post here much because useful info is few and far between, why do so many of these posts turn into pissing contests... People grow up if everyone would take a minute to look at the other persons view before attacking them this forum would be alot better off......
10-23-02, 10:49 AM
#27
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Ok,
Back on topic for a change, any engine swap is not going to be cheap. There are only two running engine swaps in the country that I know of (Bill Hagen's and SP Engineerings). No one has ever done an SR20 to my knowledge, but this will obviously be easier fitment-wise than either Bill's V8 or SP's I6. However, for all of you out there that think an engine swap is going to be so great, I encourage you to try it first, its not easy. This is not a Honda. Bill Hagen did his for a semi-reasonable cost (Jim feel free to chime in here I don't remember exactly what you said) but he ended up with only stock LT1 HP (not bad of course) and no A/C, PS, and 150 extra lbs up front. SP's I'm sure cost a small fortune, and Jim's well, that cost a large fortune. A very large fortune. I'd personally like to see more engine swaps because they are different and I like that, but no one can actually pull it off. I don't want to be discouraging, but this is the reality.
Back on topic for a change, any engine swap is not going to be cheap. There are only two running engine swaps in the country that I know of (Bill Hagen's and SP Engineerings). No one has ever done an SR20 to my knowledge, but this will obviously be easier fitment-wise than either Bill's V8 or SP's I6. However, for all of you out there that think an engine swap is going to be so great, I encourage you to try it first, its not easy. This is not a Honda. Bill Hagen did his for a semi-reasonable cost (Jim feel free to chime in here I don't remember exactly what you said) but he ended up with only stock LT1 HP (not bad of course) and no A/C, PS, and 150 extra lbs up front. SP's I'm sure cost a small fortune, and Jim's well, that cost a large fortune. A very large fortune. I'd personally like to see more engine swaps because they are different and I like that, but no one can actually pull it off. I don't want to be discouraging, but this is the reality.
10-23-02, 11:02 AM
#28
fart on a friends head!!!
Originally posted by twint78
ok um first rotorbrain.im not ignorant.ur lowering of urself by namecalling is childish and yes ignorant.instead of having a mature conversation.
um stock bottom end?extra pinning is stock bottom.and yes i know about tuning.i know that stock 2mm seal can handle up to 25-lbs of if tuned properly.and that is "if".u screw up ur engine is roasted right away.a lt1 is more forgivable.
having to replace an engine every 60-100k miles is reliable.man get off the crack.12a's are reliable yes.13b's are reliable yes.13bt's and 13b rew's are not.if thats so i wouldnt see so many threads about blowing an engine up.or coolant seal went bad.like mine after 18k miles.gay.
rebuild's for 300 huh every yr?wow that must be great,but it is still not proving the point of reliability.blowing halfshafts,and ppf,and diff's?all the time.when is this?this must be coming from all that power at idle all the way to the redline,and torque.ive not heard of too much ppl blowing their rear ends out all the time.
ok rotary reliability issues:
blown seal-full engine tear down(this can be on stock motor too)
overheating
boost lag
over heating
blowing diff's(high hp rotaries do this also)
easy detonation
retailers smart enuff to be in this business,cuz they can charge u an *** load to tune.
coolant seal failure
blowing intercooler pipes
v8 reliability issues:
rear ends,very high hp app's
umm....
valvetrain float
hmmm
help me out here im dying?
ok um first rotorbrain.im not ignorant.ur lowering of urself by namecalling is childish and yes ignorant.instead of having a mature conversation.
um stock bottom end?extra pinning is stock bottom.and yes i know about tuning.i know that stock 2mm seal can handle up to 25-lbs of if tuned properly.and that is "if".u screw up ur engine is roasted right away.a lt1 is more forgivable.
having to replace an engine every 60-100k miles is reliable.man get off the crack.12a's are reliable yes.13b's are reliable yes.13bt's and 13b rew's are not.if thats so i wouldnt see so many threads about blowing an engine up.or coolant seal went bad.like mine after 18k miles.gay.
rebuild's for 300 huh every yr?wow that must be great,but it is still not proving the point of reliability.blowing halfshafts,and ppf,and diff's?all the time.when is this?this must be coming from all that power at idle all the way to the redline,and torque.ive not heard of too much ppl blowing their rear ends out all the time.
ok rotary reliability issues:
blown seal-full engine tear down(this can be on stock motor too)
overheating
boost lag
over heating
blowing diff's(high hp rotaries do this also)
easy detonation
retailers smart enuff to be in this business,cuz they can charge u an *** load to tune.
coolant seal failure
blowing intercooler pipes
v8 reliability issues:
rear ends,very high hp app's
umm....
valvetrain float
hmmm
help me out here im dying?
rotaries = reliable
turbo rotaries = less reliable
small block chevy = reliable
turbo SBC = less reliable
see the pattern here. sure if you throw a v8 into your 3rd gen it may not have to be turbocharged, but i dont know to many people with the caliber of jim labreck as he is the only person i know of that is doing a highly successful v8 swap.
i think that an sr20det would have its fair share of probs like any built motor has. nothing is bulletproof.
paul
again, im sorry about the namecalling. maybe next time ill use sticks and stones.
thats a joke. . . i dont want anybody to have their feelings hurt now.
i need to have a group of lawyers with me everytime i post on this sight anymore. . . sheesh!!
10-23-02, 12:36 PM
#29
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I appreciate the help i am going to be mocking this thing up next week hopefully as long as the SR gets here on monday like i hoped for, i have taken many measurements and am going to build a new cradle out of cromolly(spelling??), i think i can leave the steering rack in stock location which will be a big help, the main problem that i am facing is that the sr is about 3.5" taller than the 13b, which means i amy no be able to get it low enough for the stock hood..... I am also going to weigh the SR motor & tranny to see what the difference is in wieght because i want the car to still handle well, i do not think the wieght is going to be that far off.... I'll keep you that are interested informed with some pics and stuff... Thanx
Shaun
Shaun
05-01-03, 12:13 AM
#30
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tnt,
i want to do a sr20 swap in my 7 as well.i think you share the same thoughts as i do on the matter.if you could pm me with ideas on how to do the swap and things like that, it would be greatly appreciated..i have so many questions about the swap before i want to go ahead with it.thanks...
i want to do a sr20 swap in my 7 as well.i think you share the same thoughts as i do on the matter.if you could pm me with ideas on how to do the swap and things like that, it would be greatly appreciated..i have so many questions about the swap before i want to go ahead with it.thanks...
05-01-03, 01:25 AM
#31
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I'm buggered if I can understand this.
I'm from Australia, we have more worked sr20det's here than you can imagine. I've owned one as well.
FACTS ;
- The sr20det does not have the same fantastic power & torque curves of a 13b turbo.
- The sr20det is laggy as all hell with a big turbo. Certainly lagger than a 13b.
- It does not rev as high or as hard as a 13bt
- It cannot sustain 500 rwhp reliably. The guy who said that just doesn't have experience with them. At anything over 300rwhp you are dicing with danger on a hot day, and over 350rwhp you NEED a rebuild with forged pistons, metal head gasket etc. You might get 500rwhp to last for about 10,000-20,000 miles depending on use - and it'll be a pig to drive with nothing below 5500rpm.
- it is not a particularly torquey motor.
the sr20det is an exceptional 4 cylinder, but it's not as good as a 13bt. To think otherwise is ignorance.
I'm from Australia, we have more worked sr20det's here than you can imagine. I've owned one as well.
FACTS ;
- The sr20det does not have the same fantastic power & torque curves of a 13b turbo.
- The sr20det is laggy as all hell with a big turbo. Certainly lagger than a 13b.
- It does not rev as high or as hard as a 13bt
- It cannot sustain 500 rwhp reliably. The guy who said that just doesn't have experience with them. At anything over 300rwhp you are dicing with danger on a hot day, and over 350rwhp you NEED a rebuild with forged pistons, metal head gasket etc. You might get 500rwhp to last for about 10,000-20,000 miles depending on use - and it'll be a pig to drive with nothing below 5500rpm.
- it is not a particularly torquey motor.
the sr20det is an exceptional 4 cylinder, but it's not as good as a 13bt. To think otherwise is ignorance.
05-01-03, 04:52 AM
#32
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Originally posted by sejanus
I'm buggered if I can understand this.
I'm from Australia, we have more worked sr20det's here than you can imagine. I've owned one as well.
FACTS ;
- The sr20det does not have the same fantastic power & torque curves of a 13b turbo.
- The sr20det is laggy as all hell with a big turbo. Certainly lagger than a 13b.
- It does not rev as high or as hard as a 13bt
- It cannot sustain 500 rwhp reliably. The guy who said that just doesn't have experience with them. At anything over 300rwhp you are dicing with danger on a hot day, and over 350rwhp you NEED a rebuild with forged pistons, metal head gasket etc. You might get 500rwhp to last for about 10,000-20,000 miles depending on use - and it'll be a pig to drive with nothing below 5500rpm.
- it is not a particularly torquey motor.
the sr20det is an exceptional 4 cylinder, but it's not as good as a 13bt. To think otherwise is ignorance.
I'm buggered if I can understand this.
I'm from Australia, we have more worked sr20det's here than you can imagine. I've owned one as well.
FACTS ;
- The sr20det does not have the same fantastic power & torque curves of a 13b turbo.
- The sr20det is laggy as all hell with a big turbo. Certainly lagger than a 13b.
- It does not rev as high or as hard as a 13bt
- It cannot sustain 500 rwhp reliably. The guy who said that just doesn't have experience with them. At anything over 300rwhp you are dicing with danger on a hot day, and over 350rwhp you NEED a rebuild with forged pistons, metal head gasket etc. You might get 500rwhp to last for about 10,000-20,000 miles depending on use - and it'll be a pig to drive with nothing below 5500rpm.
- it is not a particularly torquey motor.
the sr20det is an exceptional 4 cylinder, but it's not as good as a 13bt. To think otherwise is ignorance.
05-01-03, 04:05 PM
#35
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Originally posted by sejanus
I'm buggered if I can understand this.
I'm from Australia, we have more worked sr20det's here than you can imagine. I've owned one as well.
FACTS ;
- The sr20det does not have the same fantastic power & torque curves of a 13b turbo.
- The sr20det is laggy as all hell with a big turbo. Certainly lagger than a 13b.
- It does not rev as high or as hard as a 13bt
- It cannot sustain 500 rwhp reliably. The guy who said that just doesn't have experience with them. At anything over 300rwhp you are dicing with danger on a hot day, and over 350rwhp you NEED a rebuild with forged pistons, metal head gasket etc. You might get 500rwhp to last for about 10,000-20,000 miles depending on use - and it'll be a pig to drive with nothing below 5500rpm.
- it is not a particularly torquey motor.
the sr20det is an exceptional 4 cylinder, but it's not as good as a 13bt. To think otherwise is ignorance.
I'm buggered if I can understand this.
I'm from Australia, we have more worked sr20det's here than you can imagine. I've owned one as well.
FACTS ;
- The sr20det does not have the same fantastic power & torque curves of a 13b turbo.
- The sr20det is laggy as all hell with a big turbo. Certainly lagger than a 13b.
- It does not rev as high or as hard as a 13bt
- It cannot sustain 500 rwhp reliably. The guy who said that just doesn't have experience with them. At anything over 300rwhp you are dicing with danger on a hot day, and over 350rwhp you NEED a rebuild with forged pistons, metal head gasket etc. You might get 500rwhp to last for about 10,000-20,000 miles depending on use - and it'll be a pig to drive with nothing below 5500rpm.
- it is not a particularly torquey motor.
the sr20det is an exceptional 4 cylinder, but it's not as good as a 13bt. To think otherwise is ignorance.
V8s are the same deal unless you are going with nitrous and old school SBC/SBF.
Of course this just addressing the cost relationship. On a large scale high dollar project, BOTH would be worth it from a reliability vs. power standpoint. You are just talking about alot more money
.
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