Other Engine Conversions - non V-8 Discussion of non-rotary engines, exc V-8's, in a car originally powered by a Rotary Engine.

FD with a SR20, or 3SGTE??

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Old 11-15-08, 02:25 AM
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4g63 swap

I think a 4g63 engine is way better the the sr20det and the 3sgte, alot stronger its cheaper to get a hold of them and they can bolt to a turboII trans with the right bell housing. here's more info http://www.maperformance.com/gallery...st=19&page=all


Old 11-15-08, 09:11 PM
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92' JDM Type R

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Wow.... 4G63.... nice

im looking into it. it all depends on how much i can get the engine, wiring harness, ECU and tranny for..

thx for your imput guys!
Old 11-15-08, 09:13 PM
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92' JDM Type R

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Originally Posted by dradon03
So then you would be not so intelligent to look for an engine swap just for that.

Simple original engine with bolts ons running 12psi will do that and safely.
umm.. as mentioned above an FD + cost of relaibility + bolt ons = too expensive. I would rather have a frankenstein FD that gets better gas milage and go on a trip to thailand this summer! :P
Old 11-15-08, 09:15 PM
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I think you are sadly very mistaken if you think this is going to be a cheap, or cheaper endeavor to do it right. Sure you can do it 1/2 ***, then spend another 4000 fixing it.

Just for starters, looking at SRs, most SRs (cheaper redtops), are trashed in japan anyway. Most come with scored cam journals, warped heads, failed internals, and need to be overhauled. Good S15 VVTi Blacktops are not cheap, but well worth it if you want to do it right. If you get an SR i would strongly recommend having the head/block machined and doing a MHG and other reliablity mods at the same time along with an S15 Turbo.

The same can be said on a lesser note on the 3s-gte as toyota motors are more durable, but still, it's a tough thing. You never know the motors condition unless you go see the motor, do a leakdown and compression test......check turbo shaft play, bearings, seals, gaskets etc.

But this swap is just a waste of time and money if you will not do it right, as you WILL spend more in the future.

Last edited by Miata_mx5; 11-15-08 at 09:19 PM.
Old 11-15-08, 09:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 1.3Ldreamcar
umm.. as mentioned above an FD + cost of relaibility + bolt ons = too expensive. I would rather have a frankenstein FD that gets better gas milage and go on a trip to thailand this summer! :P
You like 12 y/o boys? (That one was too easy)

I think out of all the things proposed the Mitsubishi sounds like the one to go for however what the company concerned did with it is really not what you are looking to do hehe.
Old 11-15-08, 09:59 PM
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I think an FD with the new all aluminum 4B11-T from the EVO X would be a Buff Swap. It's all aluminum and it has some features that are even better than the 4g63. It's doable since the new Hyundai Genesis Coupe is powered by the same engine and it's a RWD platform.

Not to mention the guys at HKS, and Cosworth already have started making killer parts for it.
Old 11-15-08, 10:33 PM
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4g63

Originally Posted by Miata_mx5
I think an FD with the new all aluminum 4B11-T from the EVO X would be a Buff Swap. It's all aluminum and it has some features that are even better than the 4g63. It's doable since the new Hyundai Genesis Coupe is powered by the same engine and it's a RWD platform.

Not to mention the guys at HKS, and Cosworth already have started making killer parts for it.
Now how much is the 4b11-t engine, i think that way to expensive since they just came out. the 4g63 engine is way stronger, easy to make high horespower with less money. you can get a complete swap minus the trans at the junkyard for like $300, after you can just rebuilt it to your spec. You can also go with the evo IX
4g63 check this out.
Old 11-16-08, 01:30 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by super7dk
Now how much is the 4b11-t engine, i think that way to expensive since they just came out. the 4g63 engine is way stronger, easy to make high horespower with less money. you can get a complete swap minus the trans at the junkyard for like $300, after you can just rebuilt it to your spec.
This was one of the most uneducated posts i have ever read.

Not to make this a 4G63 vs 4B11 thread, BUT:

What is your reasoning to back up that the 4G63 is a MUCH Stronger engine? Cast Iron Block and Forged Pistons from the Factory? Or did you just read on the internet that people made a ton of power on it because it was only around for the past 20 or so years?

Because apparently, the guys at Cosworth disagree with you.

Just because something is new, does not mean that it's absolute ****. The 4G63 has plenty of flaws and weaknesses that were corrected in the new engine.

For one, if someone gets a $300 dollar engine (god knows which *** you pulled this number out of), most likely it will be an older 4G63, and it will be a 7 bolt one (no one wants these due to the crank thrust bearing problem).

So let me get this straight:

The 4B is about 26 lbs lighter than a 4G. The fact that it is all aluminum means it will dissipate heat in much more of a hurry than any iron block engine. Not to mention the 4B11-T is already pre-sleeved from the factory to handle higher power. A properly cast aluminum block is much stronger and more efficient than a steel block.

It does not suffer from any of the thrust bearing problems.

It has a square bore and stroke, which means it revs faster, and makes torque earlier. (86mm x 86mm). This maybe a problem for higher boost and making power. This is untested.

The heads on the 4B11-T have outflowed any other 4 or 6 cylinder production cylinder head (this was tested by Cosworth as well). The VQ35 heads and K20 heads come pretty damn close.

The engine has 4 main bolts and a block girdle, and factory forged crank and rods.
The piston is made by Mahle Powertrains, the parent company of Cosworth ( I am sure they don't know what they are doing ).

Chain Driven vs Belt driven (Double Roller Chain Drives for higher strength)

OEM Turbo housing is MUCH bigger

There are quite a bit more i can think of..........

Overall a 4B powered FD, a great, efficient 4 cylinder engine in a nimble RWD sports car will be very buff. Buff with a capital B.

How is the 4G63 Better again? Just because there are a couple of examples running around with 1000 hp, and that it's been tried and tested for 16 years? I am not insulting the history/heritage of the older engine, but just because an engine is cheap, and makes more power...it does not make it great for every damn application.

Doing engine swaps are not cheap, and should not be done on the cheap anyways (I.E: Junk), as there are many critical components that could fail if proper HW is not done. Well built cars cost money to do right. If you don't have the money, then a swap and build should not even be a thought. Just overhaul the OE parts.

Last edited by Miata_mx5; 11-16-08 at 01:42 AM.
Old 11-16-08, 02:01 PM
  #34  
92' JDM Type R

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Originally Posted by dradon03
You like 12 y/o boys? (That one was too easy)

I think out of all the things proposed the Mitsubishi sounds like the one to go for however what the company concerned did with it is really not what you are looking to do hehe.
lol you are a bad man
Old 11-16-08, 02:08 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Miata_mx5
Just for starters, looking at SRs, most SRs (cheaper redtops), are trashed in japan anyway. Most come with scored cam journals, warped heads, failed internals, and need to be overhauled.
I cant say ive heard that before. I know of 5 or 6 guys that have done SR swaps and have had no problems at all with their engines. I will be buying a redtop if i decide to go with the SR, and the import companies im looking at have done leakdown/compression tests and offer a warranty on the engine.

But yes, im researching the how-to on the 3sgte and 4g63 right now...
Old 11-16-08, 02:12 PM
  #36  
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I think maybe things are a little differeng in So Cal vs Canada. We have a lot of crap motors that come in because everyone wants to make a buck. The most people will offer is a startup warranty (which is useless here because even if the engine runs like **** and it starts, the warranty is useless).
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