year is the correct word, ive yet to see anyone with a high hp rotary make their engine last very long and if they do its a dyno queen, thats why everyone sells, because they dont last

purists need to can it because their views are lacking in realism

we are a niche group, we are that way because nobody else likes us because of our flaws, thats why there is one car on the market with the engine, if it were any good off the track more people would have one


hes building a reliable FD, sounds like a good idea to me

WOw, you make so many false claims. You live in NJ, you should know theres many high hp rotaries running around. Im sorry you havn't seen anyone. Take a step out of your cave a bit sir. The problem isnt the engine (to a certain extent), its the builders & tuners. These motors are no were near indestructable, THere alot more fragile than piston engines and take the right person for the job. This was just provin by to "big wigs" in the last day.

i know them, i also know how much they actually use their cars and how often they rebuild their engines

driving the car to car shows and back does not suddenly prove the engines are in any way reliable past the point we have hit now

sure we have surpassed the life expectancy that we had in the late 90s with AI and better seals but not by much, id love to see any rotary reach 100k on constant 700whp and not just put putting around like all the "high hp cars in my area" do, speaking of which, roan rebuilt his engine last year, anthony the year before, turbo tommy rarely drives that thing, dan just pulled his engine for a rebuild, rich only has 20k on it, the other yellow jerkoff sold the car, brian last year, khris last year, ihors got about 10 cars ready for engines, daves got about 30 cars ready for new engines, god knows what jims got, never seen a good car come from the shop in the city so im not quite sure who your talking about that has "high hp" and has had their engine for a long time

no matter what kind of debate you throw at me or how much u tell me im wrong still doesnt make us any less of a niche group

the only true success weve had has been on the track, but until i see bmw, gm, and toyota rolling out rotary cars, a niche is all we will ever be

so as ive said before hes made a reliable FD

all i can say once you go 2jz you never go back. 3 rotor = one more rotor to worry about and rebuilds are not cheap. i have never blew a 2jz ye even on a na block making 650rwhp and 120k miles on it with 10 to 1 comp.
my rx7 is going to be my daily driver. i build my car to brive not sit and wait for the sun. in the summer e/t streets and in the winter snow tires. im looking to get a zo6 next year once im done with the rx7 and that will be my car to track. i want a fast daily and aways wanted to try a v8. but no hate on the rotary clan its just not for me and the 2jz just wone me over with how good the stock motor performes.

How does your scoot hood fit now that the 2J is in it?

my hood fits fine after I did some work to the kit
I just got the cobra 8.8 IRS rear

updates I just brought a supra tt 6 speed trans is given triple disc clutch and a 8.8 cobra rear end. Installing this week.

i want to see the 8.8 rear end conversion as im debating doing this. did you go with a mounting kit for the 8.8 irs rear or are you making your own?

still debating if to make or buy. It all depends how much time I have to mess with my own car. I'm always busy working on other peoples projects.

very nice swap. subscribed.

good thing u got a better clutch and looking into a 8.8 cobra rear end.

i got to put in my .02 cents i agree the rotary engine is a finicky engine but is not a POS
what makes them unreliable are builders and tuners that think they know what they are doing but really don't.

i'm a big fan of the 2jz engine but i wonder how bad is going to throw off the weight distribution of the car

i would buy one if u don't have the time..

new setup
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...IMAG0319-1.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...7/IMAG0318.jpg

as the weight the supra motor is only 60lbs more then the rotary motor. my car should be very close to stock weight. my exhaust is made of aluminum and everyone knows the stock cats on this car are a ton. my battary is 15lbs and my turbo system is lighter then stock. i also will not have a power plant frame nowcoilover system. and my hood is really light now. so i should still be at 2700 to 2800lbs. everyone thinks that rotary motors are lite. oh and i have liter engine internals too.

Awesome build!! Love it! With my goal of 300-350 a 2jz in my FB would be the ticket!...and I wouldnt have to wonder "will I make it work or break down on the way"..

Oh, the weight might be more or less the same.. But the placing of that weight is way dfferent.
Thats why both me and bewtew is curious about the following three factors:
Curb weight
Axle weight
corner weight

This will tell us how much the weight distribution has shifted, and how much off the
factory 50/50 you are.
the heavier cobra rear end and heavier supra trans might help out abit on the nose-heavy inline 6. Basic racing design wants as much weight as possible between the centre of the wheels.
A typical nose-heavy car is the old audi quattro turboes with the inline 5 and 4wd, and the typical assheavy car is the 911 porsche turbo. Both have worked immensly to compensate for this
inherrent designflaw.

yea you kinda right to a point. but people on here also forget that a car with a good suspension setup can make a car handle great. i just ordered more stuff like the bump steer kit and sway bars. i already have coilovers. also more meet on a tire is better i have 255 in the front and 295 in the back that makes a big difference.

ok a few updates i took the r154 tech2 trans mount and i modd it for the v160 6 speed trans.
Attachment 716179
here is my ford 8.8 rear. i went with the thunderbird because its stronger and its cast iron. its only 10lbs more then the cast aluminum one. i broght a new cobra lsd with the carbon fiber clutches. i also went with the arp ring bolts and arp bearing cap bolts too. i put new bearings and i also shimed it out to spec for the proper backlash.
i aslo cut and welded the diff cover.
Attachment 716180
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Attachment 716187
Bump steer kit from hinson super cars

Super dupper great nuild tito i wish i had all ur knowledge and time to do something like this also the mount of patience and obviously the $$$$$
Well im collecting all the info i can get to do the same SWAP ...anyways just wanted to tell you please post some pics of ur BUMP STEER KIT WHENEVER U INSTALLED... cheers on this awesome thread =D

Lookin' good!

So even with the 2JZ, this should maintain similar stock handling since the engine doesn't weigh much more? With it located farther forward, I would still think problems would arise, correct?

What are your plans for the driveshaft since the v160 doesn't use a slip stlye output? This is what I'm facing at the moment which is why I ask.

Here is a pic of the bump steer kit installed.
Attachment 716190
I ripped the dash out to put the black rug in.
Attachment 716191
Here are my chromoly sway bars a lot thicker and stronger then stock.

Attachment 716192
I will be installing the cobra rear this weekend and also will get the drive shaft made on friday

Ok i recived my samberg cradle in today.
[IMG]qhttp://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/turbosc300pt67/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0354.jpg[/IMG]
I painted black and installed it on the car.
Attachment 716193
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I installed it ill take pictures tomorrow . I should also have the driveshaft tomorrow. For people doing this set up the drive shaft is 43 7/16 long. Also a few tips when installing the kit bolt on the parts to the diff first the install the diff then the cradle and then the parts that need to be welded on it should take no more then 45 min to an hour to have it on. Also you need a grinder to grind off some spots on the diff when you bolt on the parts that go on the cover. You will aslo need to grind down to get to fit the parts the weld on to the subframe.

ok here is a picture of my drive shaft i got made
Attachment 716195
here is the rear installed i have to do one quick modification to my exhaust and it will fit with no problem
Attachment 716196
all i need is the axles and my car will be able to driven again. but there still is alot of things i want to do still.
tomorrow ill have my exhaust on. i also took out the tech2 motor mounts those things suck man. i am using toyota mounts now. i advise anyone buying the kit just buy the subframe and if you going to keed your stock rear and a r154 get the trans mount and power plant frame but with a 2jz this is almost a must.