4g63 in a rx7
08-17-06, 02:09 PM
#76
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Originally Posted by coltboostin
I was not going to post this here, but here goes nothing.
I have heard rumors, but am still yet to find anyone to complete this swap. If any of you have proof of otherwise, please let me know. I have searched for days and have yet to find anything more than hearsay.
FC+4G63=700 reliable daily driven whp with one of the best RWD chassis to come out of Japan
More updates coming soon.
Now, before you guys start crying about my power claims-
My Colt ran for 3 years, 1 1/2 of which with 700+whp. It never popped a motor, and was driven every day it was not snowing. It had full interior, heat, radio..ect. And, at less boost than what I made 708whp with, it ran like this...
http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...318845ffb1.htm
Hell, with a bone stock motor-It still went 10's all day (498whp)
http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...55836b6b28.htm
The car was never in its life towed to or from the track. Not once. On pump gas it made over 500whp. 700+ was trip to Marathon away, since I made that on cheap old 110. to that end, it was turned up and raced every nice weekend and on certain week days. All this, and the motor is STILL making great power in its new home in a DSM in New England. My power claim is not a goal, not one powered by hopes and dreams, but a simple matter of -I did it before (with almost nothing) and I will do it again. The car simply wont make any less power than that. If it did, I would be making a backwards progression from my last project-one that was completed for $5200 total invested-and that is simply not going to happen.
Don’t get me wrong-there is nothing wrong with the rotary engine. I have built and tuned quite a few RX-7’s now, and I enjoy the cars overall. If I wanted a 400whp DD, I would keep the rotary, but for the power I depend and the money I have to spend-It is nearly an impossibility to have such a power level in a daily driven rotary powered car.
I have heard rumors, but am still yet to find anyone to complete this swap. If any of you have proof of otherwise, please let me know. I have searched for days and have yet to find anything more than hearsay.
FC+4G63=700 reliable daily driven whp with one of the best RWD chassis to come out of Japan
More updates coming soon.
Now, before you guys start crying about my power claims-
My Colt ran for 3 years, 1 1/2 of which with 700+whp. It never popped a motor, and was driven every day it was not snowing. It had full interior, heat, radio..ect. And, at less boost than what I made 708whp with, it ran like this...
http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...318845ffb1.htm
Hell, with a bone stock motor-It still went 10's all day (498whp)
http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...55836b6b28.htm
The car was never in its life towed to or from the track. Not once. On pump gas it made over 500whp. 700+ was trip to Marathon away, since I made that on cheap old 110. to that end, it was turned up and raced every nice weekend and on certain week days. All this, and the motor is STILL making great power in its new home in a DSM in New England. My power claim is not a goal, not one powered by hopes and dreams, but a simple matter of -I did it before (with almost nothing) and I will do it again. The car simply wont make any less power than that. If it did, I would be making a backwards progression from my last project-one that was completed for $5200 total invested-and that is simply not going to happen.
Don’t get me wrong-there is nothing wrong with the rotary engine. I have built and tuned quite a few RX-7’s now, and I enjoy the cars overall. If I wanted a 400whp DD, I would keep the rotary, but for the power I depend and the money I have to spend-It is nearly an impossibility to have such a power level in a daily driven rotary powered car.
08-18-06, 12:41 AM
#78
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Do you post on the Project Zero G forums? Your screen name seems familiar.
DSMLink is an awesome way to go, I love mine. I would pay twice what I paid for it to have the features it has.
DSMLink is an awesome way to go, I love mine. I would pay twice what I paid for it to have the features it has.
08-18-06, 12:56 AM
#80
Originally Posted by coltboostin
It sounds like you were sold a time bomb, (and you realize that now) beaten to death and then sold to someone who didn’t know what to look for when buying a DSM. Again, not the car’s fault in either respective.
When it comes down to *WHY* it failed, I really don't have an Honest answer and therefore my opinion of the motor is sketchy.
Like I said the timing belt appeared to be brand new when I started taking things apart. When I looked down at the guides/pulleys nothing was broken. It just didn't add up.
I mean yeah I could have seen an old belt on there and just thought to myself "Oh well, I got screwed, the guy lied about that timing belt job. "
To this day I don't know WHY it broke. Had I been more educated with DSM engines at the time I probably could have diagnosed it further.
I think your swap is neat, I think any swap that keeps an RX7 out of the crusher is a great idea. Good luck, It's just not my cup of tea.
08-18-06, 10:41 AM
#81
Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
When it comes down to *WHY* it failed, I really don't have an Honest answer and therefore my opinion of the motor is sketchy.
Like I said the timing belt appeared to be brand new when I started taking things apart. When I looked down at the guides/pulleys nothing was broken. It just didn't add up.
I mean yeah I could have seen an old belt on there and just thought to myself "Oh well, I got screwed, the guy lied about that timing belt job. "
To this day I don't know WHY it broke. Had I been more educated with DSM engines at the time I probably could have diagnosed it further.
I think your swap is neat, I think any swap that keeps an RX7 out of the crusher is a great idea. Good luck, It's just not my cup of tea.
Like I said the timing belt appeared to be brand new when I started taking things apart. When I looked down at the guides/pulleys nothing was broken. It just didn't add up.
I mean yeah I could have seen an old belt on there and just thought to myself "Oh well, I got screwed, the guy lied about that timing belt job. "
To this day I don't know WHY it broke. Had I been more educated with DSM engines at the time I probably could have diagnosed it further.
I think your swap is neat, I think any swap that keeps an RX7 out of the crusher is a great idea. Good luck, It's just not my cup of tea.
Fair enough. I wont speculate any further.
08-21-06, 04:17 PM
#82
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i might have missed this in this thread, but what can the turbo II trans take? more importantly, how will it react to all the extra torque being produced with a high hp 4g63?
08-21-06, 04:53 PM
#83
Originally Posted by adictd2b00st
i might have missed this in this thread, but what can the turbo II trans take? more importantly, how will it react to all the extra torque being produced with a high hp 4g63?
We'll find out.
This is uncharted territory.
08-21-06, 05:58 PM
#84
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well definitly keep us posted, because if this works out well i might have to follow in your footsteps
*edit* i see your from cleveland, do you know matt from slick motorsports?
*edit* i see your from cleveland, do you know matt from slick motorsports?
08-21-06, 10:14 PM
#85
I do know Matt. He is to a point a rival shop although his customer base is not really the same as our own. I have plenty of good and bad stories to come out of Slickmotorsports, but he is still in business, so he must be doing something right. Keeping a one man shop afloat is no easy operation.
08-22-06, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by coltboostin
I do know Matt. He is to a point a rival shop although his customer base is not really the same as our own. I have plenty of good and bad stories to come out of Slickmotorsports, but he is still in business, so he must be doing something right. Keeping a one man shop afloat is no easy operation.
but anywho, i'll def be following your progress on this, don't worry about the haters on here i look forward to seeing how this comes out
08-22-06, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Low Impedance
are you the guy with the blue fd with the front mount? i was at that place a year ago there was a fd he was working on from NY.
as far as i know mines the only fd that's had an "extended" stay there, the other one he's worked on was just some bolt ons here and there
08-22-06, 11:19 AM
#89
Respecognize!
Originally Posted by adictd2b00st
montego blue fd with a vmount, i am from NY and my car was there for about a year or so, so its prolly the car your thinking of as far as i know mines the only fd that's had an "extended" stay there, the other one he's worked on was just some bolt ons here and there
as far as i know mines the only fd that's had an "extended" stay there, the other one he's worked on was just some bolt ons here and therefigured as much. very good looking car.
09-06-06, 08:42 PM
#91
Why waste the time and money? The rotary is reliable enough when properly maintained. A stock t2 is easily capable of 500+ horsepower with proper "bolt-ons." 4g63 is a good engine with lots of capability, but this swap would require much more than you think. With the time and money put into swapping it, you could have a much more powerful rotary, because you're sticking with the engine that's in it (low amount of custom work).
09-07-06, 04:23 PM
#93
Please, show me ONE reliable 500whp stock port T2-and popping an apex seal every few months is not reliable in my book.. I can name 10 500+whp daily driven 4G63 powered vehicles within a 30 mile radius of me, 4 of which have bone stock long blocks.
I will have very little money invested into this, just a little time. The motor is already in the car and mounted to the TII trans. The motor build will be $600+$350 for a set of cams, and will hold 700+whp every day without issue. All on cam2 which is very affordable at $4 a gallon.
Again, find me one T2 that fits your claim and I will think twice.
Just for clarification, how much money do you think this is going to cost me? We can start with me picking up the car for $1400-but subtract the motor I sold for $400, exhaust for $300, ecu/harness that is gone for $100, AFC for $200, Turbo timer for $100,and the many things that still need to be sold, and you can get the idea of what this will actually cost me. :
I will have very little money invested into this, just a little time. The motor is already in the car and mounted to the TII trans. The motor build will be $600+$350 for a set of cams, and will hold 700+whp every day without issue. All on cam2 which is very affordable at $4 a gallon.
Again, find me one T2 that fits your claim and I will think twice.
Just for clarification, how much money do you think this is going to cost me? We can start with me picking up the car for $1400-but subtract the motor I sold for $400, exhaust for $300, ecu/harness that is gone for $100, AFC for $200, Turbo timer for $100,and the many things that still need to be sold, and you can get the idea of what this will actually cost me. :
Last edited by coltboostin; 09-07-06 at 04:26 PM.
09-07-06, 06:26 PM
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No offence, but this is an example of what I was referring to-owner mis-matinence giving DSM;s a bad name. If the timing belt was served at the correct interval, hell even 20k past the service interval, that would not have happened. You cant blame a car for breaking due to the owner's mistreatment.
I changed my timing belt at 120k on a 1992 Talon TSI 6 bolt that was modded to about 300 WHP. That was about the 9th timing belt I had done on a DSM with no failures. I did it right, used a good belt new tensioner new pulleys etc. I didn't have oil leaking into the timing belt area that could cause the belt to fail. It failed 32K miles later and bent half the valves. I bought a 1998 TSI to replace it. 6 weeks after driving off the lot bone stock and change all the fuids and the timing belt, there was a 1/2 inch of crank walk. The engine was replace under waranty. 6 months later the crank was walking again.
I will never own another mitsubishi power car again.
Good luck on your swap I hope it does everything you want it too.
Last edited by slo; 09-07-06 at 06:28 PM.
09-07-06, 07:33 PM
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the infamous crank walk is at the same level of "broken apex seals" to the rotaries. unless it's a 2jz then you will always have certain.. how you say... subtleties? hahaha
i have been keeping up with your stuff on torquecentral mr. colt and as i said on there, good luck 'cause this will be awesome!
i have been keeping up with your stuff on torquecentral mr. colt and as i said on there, good luck 'cause this will be awesome!
09-07-06, 07:37 PM
#96
I am sorry you had bad luck with the 1G. As for the 2G-I would not buy one either, at least with the 7 bolt in it. Crankwalk is an issue with those motors. That is what mitsu gets for letting Chrysler do most of the work on that motor.
As for what I want out of the car-I will say this;If the car does not go 10's on low boost and pump gas I will be doing something wrong.
No rotor-Thanks. All systems go so far.
As for what I want out of the car-I will say this;If the car does not go 10's on low boost and pump gas I will be doing something wrong.
No rotor-Thanks. All systems go so far.
Last edited by coltboostin; 09-07-06 at 07:42 PM.
09-07-06, 10:09 PM
#97
Originally Posted by coltboostin
Please, show me ONE reliable 500whp stock port T2-and popping an apex seal every few months is not reliable in my book.. I can name 10 500+whp daily driven 4G63 powered vehicles within a 30 mile radius of me, 4 of which have bone stock long blocks.
I will have very little money invested into this, just a little time. The motor is already in the car and mounted to the TII trans. The motor build will be $600+$350 for a set of cams, and will hold 700+whp every day without issue. All on cam2 which is very affordable at $4 a gallon.
Again, find me one T2 that fits your claim and I will think twice.
Just for clarification, how much money do you think this is going to cost me? We can start with me picking up the car for $1400-but subtract the motor I sold for $400, exhaust for $300, ecu/harness that is gone for $100, AFC for $200, Turbo timer for $100,and the many things that still need to be sold, and you can get the idea of what this will actually cost me. :
I will have very little money invested into this, just a little time. The motor is already in the car and mounted to the TII trans. The motor build will be $600+$350 for a set of cams, and will hold 700+whp every day without issue. All on cam2 which is very affordable at $4 a gallon.
Again, find me one T2 that fits your claim and I will think twice.
Just for clarification, how much money do you think this is going to cost me? We can start with me picking up the car for $1400-but subtract the motor I sold for $400, exhaust for $300, ecu/harness that is gone for $100, AFC for $200, Turbo timer for $100,and the many things that still need to be sold, and you can get the idea of what this will actually cost me. :
09-07-06, 10:44 PM
#98
Originally Posted by coltboostin
Please, show me ONE reliable 500whp stock port T2-
Now don't talk **** about rotaries. Just cause you dont know how to tune one and make it reliable doesn't mean that others can't. Very few know how, and they are paid well for their services.
09-08-06, 12:16 AM
#99
Originally Posted by shm21284
Motor swaps are not that cheap, especially in this case. You will see. 700 whp every day without issue for 1400 dollars? I would like to see that! Where do I sign up? Can you build me one??
The motor will be as priced. The turbo will be around $1000, figure $800 for the FULL fuel system and management-$1000 for the intercooler, Exhaust...ect (which I will fabricate)-and $500 on top for Misc bs I will forget about. I would love to make it more complicated for you, but its really that simple for me. Can the average joe do it for that cheap? Maybe not- but with a welder and a dream, anything is possibe.
It is a fact that I made 708whp for $5200 including car in my Colt. I drove it every day, and it was quite reliable. There is no reason I can simply repeat the process-and I for see it being easier this time around with what I have learned, and since I will have increased displacement.
Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
Now don't talk **** about rotaries. Just cause you dont know how to tune one and make it reliable doesn't mean that others can't. Very few know how, and they are paid well for their services.
Either way-the simple fact that makes my decision for me is that 700whp can not be reliably had in a 2 rotor car at all, let alone with any hope of being cheap. The 4G will do it for cheap-will take the daily abuse of the big power, and will do it on cheap old Cam2 I can get for $4 at the local pump.
