IT'S ALIVEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!


There was no power to the injectors or ignitor so i bypassed it and ran power directly... seems to work fine now... I'll dig into it more in a little bit but in the mean time i'm a happy camper!

Here is a start up video courtesy of my wife, dont mind the mess

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMrv4On5wJI

sounds nice yo!
allot better then it would with the original motor. lol

UPDATE!

* Dropped off the drive shaft this morning, should be done tomorrow! Measurement from tip of output shaft to flange of rx7 T-II LSD Diff was 35 9/16 inch

* Exhaust is done (ouch welding burns!)

Took a while because I had to make everything (including the turbo flange) from scrap! It's a bit ugly but has great clearance everywhere and a flex pipe. Stock Rx7 cat removed :D

Sounds almost like a stock motor with the stock mufflers not loud at all very sleeper for someone who doesn't know rotary engines well. But if I pull up to another rx7 they might be confused!

I still need to hook up the clutch line and power steering lines, make all the charge pipes and finish the intake


Oh yeah then put the hood on a take it for a test drive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Actually i'll leave the hood off for that :D

* The harness and injectors + ignitor gets power through the two fat black and orange wires on the gray harness connector*

yo Sketch_hs, how's your hood fitment with the 1jz? very nicely done we should throw a little get together meet sometimes.

^^^
I think he wants to kill you.

haven't checked yet! lolz

I DROVE IT TODAY! Was pretty easy on it but this car hauls now!

Doesn't really feel to heavy, seems to handle nearly the same so far

lots of little things to finish up... sure sounds good/different

Almost done!

Attachment 710134

Attachment 710135


Radiator fan clearance! lol

Attachment 710136

interesting fact:

The mechanical vehicle speed sending unit from the supra r154 trans works perfectly with the stock rx7 speedometer cable. Also the speedometer seems pretty accurate! Very convenient!

wow great swap! sounds amazing...i love I6 turbo's.

keep up the great work!

Do you have any pics of the motor mounts?

just wondering if you ever got my PM???...lol

HOW TO MAKE 1JZ MOUNTS


Just make pedestals from the subframe and weld them up strong!

Use the stock mounts brackets and mounts. Pull the stock motor and grind the coating off the subframe around where you are going to weld on the new mounts.

I used 5/16 inch mild steel and a mig welder. I used a sawzall to cut the metal, a plasma cutter would be a LOT faster and easier!


To get them right, place the drive train in the car and position it perfectly using jacks and blocks of wood etc.

Took me 2 hours to get it perfectly in place. TAKE YOUR TIME TO MAKE IT PERFECT!. Then start building the mounts and tack weld everything in place.

I first made the top of the mount, about a 2inch square with a hole in the center.

Bolt the top plate to the mount with the engine in place. Now use cardboard to help you design the sides of the mount (3) . Make the parts one at a time and tack weld them in place. Remember the motor will drop down a little once the weight is on the mounts so make them a little high by about 2-3 mm

pull the motor back out and weld them up, make sure you clean the metal before welding and paint it once it's cooled down so it doesn't rust

the trans mount is similar. make a plate with the four holes that attaches to the stock r154 mount. Now make two plates for each stock rx7 mounting location, the ones with two bolts. Leave some extra room from the two plates going towards in the inside of the transmission tunnel.

The plate on the transmission should be wide enough so that you can make a connecting plates from the bolt plates to the trans plate. make them out of cardboard to get the shape and clearances correct and tack weld them in place. Then remove the mount and weld it up. Remember you'll need clearance for the speedometer cable! Make sure you paint it when you are done so it doesn't rust.


And that's how you do the mounts!

WIRING!

You need to wire the grounds, battery power, and switched ignition power to the correct places on the ecu connectors. Use a pin out to help you!

Then you need to wire your rx7 fuel pump to come on with the ignition and wire ignition switched power to the 2jz harness. There are two thick black and orange wires that supply the power to the injectors and ignitor etc.

for your rx7 gauges, you'll need to use the stock sender unit with some adapters, then wire them to the dash etc.

You will retain your rx7 charging and starting harness but modify it to fit the new starter and alternator.

That's about it.

could you explain what pieces you used on your speedo, mines been running for awhille; but i guess i never really tried to hook it up. I have the r154

Great thread!

You do know 2jzswap.com sells a driveshaft specifically for this swap, right? Where did/are you getting yours done and for how much?

Also, did you modify the shifter or just use 2jzswap.coms shifter extention kit?

tech 2 just released the kit a short while ago, i had to build everything myself, the drive shaft totaled around 550 to be made locally.

i would highly suggest spending the money vs trying to cheap out on the shifter extension, unless you know somone that can handle it. i did my own extension, it works but it could be alot better.

the na mk4 tranny fits like a glove from when a another of my friends was gonna go manual, but ended up going to a th400

I had the drive shaft made from a stock rx7 drive shaft and the transmission end of a mk3 turbo drive shaft. Cost to make it was $118.00, plus $50 for the mk3 turbo drive shaft... it's very simple for them to make it...


I'm using the tech2 shifter extension, work great.

You need a mechanical sending unit for the mk3 turbo, the rx7 speedo cable will go right in and thread on... seems to read a little slow but close enough!

Yeah the mk4 na trans would fit perfectly but that trans is known to blow up around 400hp, I actually blew one on my supra at about 500whp :/

If you guys need any info just ask!

did you give them the parts? mine was all new and they said the mkiii slip yoke was very expensive, my parts for new tube,ends, u-joints and yoke was almost 400 then about 160 in labor.

I'll have to look into the speedo thing.

have you modified your hood, i had to cut the crap out of it on the intake manifold side, now i'm waiting for it to rub a little more so i can tell were it's hitting on the turbo side. pics if you got any of the under side of the hood, also do you have pics of your steering rack clearance?

I gave them the turboII drive shaft and a front part of mk3 turbo shaft. I actually got the complete mk3 turbo shaft for $50 in great shape. Not sure why you would get a new part when the used ones are everywhere!


I just got a crappy turbo hood today I cut up to fit. Almost done, main problem once the webbing is cut is the front turbo outlet pipe. It just hits the hood. I could lower the engine down a little but it might hit the steering rack. I'm pretty close to that as it is.

I'll try to get some pictures of the clearances for you guys.


Have you guys been able to get the stock oil pressure gauge and water temp working? I don't have a problem installing the sender units but im not sure where they are wired in.

Also, which wires are for the reverse lights on the transmission harness? Would be nice to have that work!

i use the stock oil pressure, use your rotary oil pressure unit the car is used to seeing it, i coul not get the 1jz sending unit to work. I had to put a straight mpt fitting so it would reach because the sending unit is so large, the wire for it is in the starting/ charging harness

the water temp is in the little harness coming for the driver side I think.

go to granneys speed shop and look in the manuals section and there is on for electrical.

I don't know why my reverse lights don't work, i hooked the switch coming off of the trans but they did not work..i need to look into it more.

I looked at the speedo cable and it should work if i had a cable laying around, my turbo cable came apart so the spring on the inside was not there, i had a auto cable laying around so i took it apart and found it is different length. there should be away to calibrate the speedo head.

how did you end up fabing the mounts got any pics, looking to do the same swap.

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