I saw the title and just wasted 5 minutes of my life looking for pictures, thanks.

 

i sugest looking through my thread what you will be doing. altho my truck is already a rotary platform it will give you lots of ideas on the process

https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/going-old-skool-got-repu-653888/

 

i have all sorts of pics on a different site and a complete build of the truck with step by step pics.. i just got flamed so much on here that i decided not to post pics..

pm me if u want the link
ok, sweet, ill check it out for sure thanks!~

 

hay just for a confident's builder if you have lots and lots of experince with honda's and building them modding this truck like it is etc you should rebuild the engine for your self..

im no way a mechanic im just hobby guy and have learnt everything off the forum "almost everything rotary related".
I have built one 22re engine and seemed more complicated then my s4t2 motor build. plus i had someone to hold my hand on the toyota motor...lol but the rotary was easey all you need is guidence i have 3 diff 13b rebuild vids and just took notes on tech tricks.The hardest part was clearenceing the side seals.but hay lots of mesuring in a piston and alot more can go wrong.

i didnt read your whole thread as there seems to be some crap so sorry if i missed somthing..

and just post pics up on the forum of your truck since your putting a rota in it u wont get flamed..

mods should move this thread to the "Old School and Other Rotary" section should be more suited there..

cheers
kiwi

 

ok. maybe ill just post my build so far over there...

im just a bit nervous about building a rotary since i have none of the tools.

how much will it cost me to rebuild u think?

can i do it for under $1500 if everything is in good shape?

 

yeah if everythings in good shape ..
but u never know for sure i would tear it down before u buy parts..

i got a s4swap for 800 but when i tore it down everything was toast only thing i used was the front plate,eshaft and few other things. i got all my low mile jdm parts from japan2la good guy...
in the end what was a 800 swap iv spent bout 4-5grand but all the small things add up plus i brought alota new stuff like my housings were like 600 or so cant remember lol.. but it will be a strong motor and will be seing over 350hp with a turbo and related stuff..

all the tools u need are basic. i got my messuring tools from harbor freight.. get a rebuild vid best 20 ull spend ..

since your not going for crazy hp the build should be easey simple.

good luck .

kiwi.

 

ok, well im just concerned about the clearances..

i guess i can tear into it and see whats up eh?

and i tried to buy a longblock from japan2la but the timing never worked out. he definately has some good products..

maybe ill tear into the engine next weekend..

i ap[appreciate the confidence boost..

 

well hopefully i can get a compression test done this weekend. ive been slacking.. lol

 

well i finally got around to a compression test..

the gauge i used we put together at work, and im pretty sure the gauge is bad.

the car turned over no problems and sounded strong, but nothing showed on the gauge...

im going to just go buy a compression tester and then give it another shot, but i think everything is kosher...

 

take the needle valve out of the piston tester

 

k. ill do that

 

engine is mounted but there are a few little problems...

the engine sits crooked on the mounts that i ordered so i will have to either make new mounts or cut up the mounts i bought.

then its all about running wiring and getting the driveline welded up and balanced and then mount my steering and my pedals and some fuel lines and start this baby up..

 

Piston testers work just watch the bumps. It's rare for both rotors to let go at the same time. There should be three even bumps. While one blown seal will give one good bump (how do you know from three?), You should see the difference on the other rotor. No bumps, all seals are gone.

Look for one with the schrader valve for releasing the pressure. If you hold the valve, three even bumps. if you don't, you should still be able to see it pump up to max pressure.

 

ok engine is solidly mounted now.

got rhd steering box from a mazda bravo mounted.

waiting on my custom turbo mani to be tig welded up then just get the wiring figured out and the fans and all that jazz, but it hopefully will be running by winter.

thanks for the help everyone and i will post up some pics also of the build...

 

sweet cant wait.

 

any suggestions on a style of intercooler?

i have been looking at the godspeed v intercoolers for a front mount. i will be running fd upper and lower intakes on the fc engine and also electric fans. just seeing if anyone had any suggestions. i dont think i will have a problem fitting a fmic as there is a lot of room under the hood now..

 

dont think the fd lower will work without a adapter as the ports are in diff spots

 

ya u have to use the fc lower and port the upper and do a few other things to make it work..

it will be a trial and error thing i guess lol

 

here look at this thread it will help u on the manifold deal

https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/77-repu-build-913429/

 

thanks for the link.

already been browsing that thread a bit. i just got a good deal un a fd upper and lower a few weeks ago and i didnt know that i just needed the upper so i got them both lol

 

build is still in progress. got the truck out of the garage and took it to s how under contruction, but it was good to see it back in one piece... still trying to have it running by winter..

 

anyone have any suggestions on tubing size for a custom turbo mani?

i will be running a comp turbo to4e...

 

304/316 schedule 10 44mm id will best suit your setup.more suited for t4

 

Hope you get this all pulled off, I love my setup.

 

I would love to see pics of urs!