Sounds good. That would definitely be easier & simpler than I had originally planned. Any tips or advice on changing it? (I just downloaded the FSM) I guess that it would be a good time to do the thermowax pellet mod as well.

 

who's the guy with the green oval? i have a multicolored oval, with green being one of the major colors (that and rust) with a 13b. also wilwood brakes and wide fenders.
I snapped an axle on my built 4.37 trans at irwindale. now running a built 3.88 and takint a little easier, doing more daily driving and shows.
right now i am actually putting another engine in

 

looks good, i'm in the process of installing a 12a into a 68 sedan. Any recent updates?

 

I've been messing with my daily driver too much lately (getting a new motor in 2 weeks) so I haven't had the cash or time to work on this project. Not giving up yet...

 

the green oval is wankel009. its currently being prepped for paint,the same green color...updates will be coming soon....

 

I've been back at it, managing every Saturday lately and making progress. The light blue bug is now for sale

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifie...php?id=1189561

and I am proceeding with a 69 that is a slightly better candidate. It was my daily driver until some idiot made a blind left turn in front of me. It's now getting a sedan style one piece fiberglass front end which will just make the conversion easier.

This last weekend I put the stock fuel injection back on, (with new pulsation dampener) replaced the KEP stage 1 clutch that I had stolen for another car and added an Atkins side mount alternator kit.

 

Great project you are undertaking! Rotaries are insane! Finally got mine running well enough for street and it beats the **** out of the aircooled guys any day haha. 80 by 3rd? easy! I rebuilt my tranny to be "freeway flyer" and I hit 35 at 6.6k 1st gear... I hit 70 in second under boost. So 80 is easy. AS long as you dont launch it 24/7 the regular tranny should hold up to some abuse. But if not, upgrade for sure! And for noise, my bug has as much exhaust as I could fit and its still pretty loud lmao. I had to cut my hood for airflow to my front radiator as the hood blocked too much. FYI, the "purists" are going to hate you for the fact that you can drive circles around them day in day out hahha! Cant wait to see more!

 

I'd like to see some progress if there is any to report.

 

Sure, here is the new roller:

 

First run in 10 years I bet.



I decided to "bench test" it since the motor was an uncertainty. It got up to temp and didn't smoke or barf coolant. Looks like I am clear to proceed.

 

That's pretty cool. Congrats on the bench test. It's good to know that your engine is good. You're now further along than I am.

 

I have a "starter" exhaust. It will be the stock manifold with ears removed to an OEM style (not straight through) muffler. Piping is 2". Pic is how it looks before final fitting. I will need to take about an inch off the U pipe to tuck the muffler up under the left rear fender, and clearance the transmission mount to fit the manifold.

The muffler was previously used on a rotary VW Bus, but farther from the motor and after a cat. I guess I will see how long it lasts.

 

Here is the transmission mount, clearanced with a reciprocating saw.

 

I seem to recall I had to clearance mine on that side too.

 

Here is the exhaust mounted and (temporary) alternator going on. Exhaust just needs a hanger at the tip.

 

I got a Harbor Freight pipe bender today and started forming some coolant lines out of 1 & 1/4" 16 ga T304 Stainless Steel. A 20' piece cost $55 after tax; I'm not sure yet if it will take 2. Because the tube is strong and The 1" pipe die fits the tubing well, I haven't had to modify the bender as some people have, but I am using extra bits of tubing as pads to keep from denting the tube at the rollers. Overall, I'm very pleased with the way things are working out.

 

Small zig-zag to tuck under the tunnel by the battery tray. Not sure yet if the other will run alongside this or be mirrored on the other side.

 

Hot side is formed, though it still needs to be trimmed and have a lip welded on each end.

 

Here is roughly how the radiator will be mounted. I will duct the air on both sides.

 

Nice progress! I'm still debating what type of intake to do on mine. My radiator should be available after that. It's currently borrowed by a friend to get his car up and running. It's a tall style 83-85 12A and GSL-SE model. At least I can rest assured that it is big enough for a rotary. Good luck with yours - good thing you have a separate oil cooler and can duct air to it, being a street car and all that. I'm using a beehive on mine so I needed the correct factory radiator for that application. I didn't want to snag an oil cooler line on a rock or tree branch.

 

Test fitting the hot side.

 

Can I use a beehive on a 13b? I'm running low on space - still have
another water line and motor mounts to fit here.

 

Got a hanger installed. I'll make it pretty later... I want to get this thing on the road!

 

%100 bolt on.

 

Yeah, you can. Just stretch the steel hardline forward (or in your case rearward lol) exactly 20mm as it was designed for a 12A, which is exactly 20mm shorter. Keep the alignment perfect when you stretch and it will never leak. I've done it. Several times. Works great.

Don't let anyone tell you the beehives suck and they have no place on a 13B blah blah blah. Obviously they are ignorant and have not done as much with them as I have.

One small thing to consider however regarding the beehive on an S4 NA: make sure it will fit with the S4 manifolding fully installed. I'm about to embark on a project like this and was going to test fit these parts on a core engine within the next few days. It should fit but I can't say they will fit 100% because I haven't done it myself. But I'll know soon.