The two stroke is in there due to me dissabling the omp system. No big deal there, that's just adding a little bit of smoke there. After revving the engine, milk oily sludge comes out the exhaust. It's oil with water in it i believe. The motor oil is perfect though when i checked it... Could be some bad hooking it up on my part? Maybe just some bad turbo issues? The turbo area has some black oil leaking onto my exhaust muffler. Will take the shorud off and investigate that as well. Or is it actually seals? I hope its just something simple. Runs good but the smoke... Not even a mile on this cosmo crated engine. When I did drive it for a second though, it spun the tires at not even 4 grand haha.

 

Well i tore the engine down, no weird water/oil lines going into the engine. It seems the engine needs a rebuild... I just hope the housings and rotors are intact. I just don't have the money for a rebuild now that I just bought the microtech.. arghhhh It'll be alittle while before I send it out for a rebuild. Someone told me the twins could cause the smoke so I tore them off and will try to start it once more somehow. And I have no idea what the microtech set fuel/air ratio is since I don't have the computer dongle to plug into the computer.. This car is a murphy (if anything can go wrong, it will).

 

i think microtech supplies pre set maps...just tell them what your running even if its stock and they will hook you up. as far as the rebuild i am wondering about my engine too....those apex seals cost alot!!!

 

like that

 

like that alot

 

UPDATE: Dissasembling the engine. The first housing and plate are off, both seem alright and the rotor is okay. No damage except a stuck oil control ring and a worn bearing on the e shaft. So far, It looks like some new seals for the rebuild, 1 bearing and that should be it for my rebuild. The n to put it all back together and try it.

 

pics of the rebuild would be keeeeey

 

Update: Engine torn apart and cleaned, partially painted and ready to order my rebuild parts. Here are some pics:









And on this last picture, inside the exhaust port there is this metal flange. Is this some kind of mazda cosmo style of diffuser? I plan on mildly streetporting the engine, does this flange get cut out when i port? or do i take it out? ned to know this!!! thanks

 

UPDATE: I found out that flange in the cosmo exhaust port is a piece of metal that directs airflow so that the twins spin up faster etc etc. I have decided to not port the engine at all, and I just bought all my necessary pieces for my rebuild. All new water seals, side seals, side seal springs, viton o-rings, apex seals, apex springs, rotor oil o-rings, front and main seal, corner seal springs, and of course a rebuild dvd so i don't forget something when putting it back together :p BTW, atkins is only like 1 hour from my house but I got lazy and decided to ups it to my house instead of driving hahahha.

 

Alright, UPS tracking says my rebuild parts should arrive sometime today! will post pics when it arrives.

 

Well here are my parts!!! arrived in 2 days All bought from atkins





So i have:

2mm apex
apex springs
o-ring kit
main and rear seals
side seals
side seal springs
corner seal inserts
corner seal springs
oil control springs
water seals
a flywheelnut
bearing
and a rebuild dvd

time to start assembling the engine rebuild!!!

 

Hi I just found your build. Excellent job.

Just a little about myself. I live in the caribbean on an island called Antigua. I'm a airline pilot and fly for a company called LIAT Airline. I'm not a mechanic but do a lot of reading and have been able to get by.

I've built a Factory Five GTM kit car from scratch for my brother in law http://www.factoryfive.com/table/ffr...M/concept.html .

I've also done an engine swap in a 1973 Datsun 260Z from its original engine and trans to a Nissan Skyline RB25 turbo engine and trans again for my brother in law.

I have a fiberglass beach buggy with a 13b-re cosmo engine and an Autocraft Type 1 trans beefed up to take the power.

I have kept the stock set-up including the ECU. I was able to get it running by using the 13b -rew wiring diagram.

I have removed the twin turbos, the vaccum hoses and installed a single series 5 13b turbo.

I'm presently rebuilding my bug from the ground up with a new Berrien buggy tube chassis and a fiberglass floor http://www.berrienbuggy.com/id63.htm

I'm planning on changing to a haltech ecu to eliminate alot of the wiring and the AFM. Also need other features like the launch control.


1/4 mile best is 11.5 @ 109mph 1.52 60 foot all with just 5psi boost.

I've lost all my pictures due to laptop crashing, will post when back up and running.

Ricky

 

That sounds like a pretty cool build. I like tht chassis, much more to work with I think. Yeah my engine is in the stage of rebuild. I have my housings ainted and ready, and i just finished putting all the seals and springs into my rear rotor, now the next one and then assembly :p Is the haltech you want like the micro where yoi need to wire it? or is it a plug and play kind of deal?

 

Okay the engine is just about all the way rebuilt. I have a few things left and I was wondering if anyone had the torque specs of the engine bolts on the back of the engine. The center ones and the outer ones. thanks guys

 

I don't think you're going to have much luck running no intercooler. Has this already been covered?

 

Just because I don't have an intercooler doesn't mean the turbos wont work :p and an intercooler can be added later anyways. For now, my cold washington air is fine by me. I can't worry about the nitty gritty so much, I haven't even got to enjoy the car yet. I torqued the engine bolts down to 25 lbs ish. should be fine i think.

 

I suggest you add it sooner than later.

Turbo rotaries need all the cooling they can get. The air is super hot post turbo. Especially that stock unit.

Or, you could always stock up on rebuild kits.

 

yah dude. i would at least go air to water intercooler.

you are killing the engine with 200 degree intake air temp.

 

awesome build. Kinda gonna be stealin your idea, cept i wanna find a Porsche 912 to do this in, and maybe go 3 Rotor. only Funds will tell

 

Bump for a really impressive build!

 

Well the rebuild is approximately 90% complete. New bearing in the back of the e shaft, and oil pan put on. I just need to assemble the rest of the components like slapping on turbos and manifolds, fix one exhaust leak, hook up my microtech, and start the break in on this bad boy. My color scheme on the engine is the gunmetal with silver misted over and black on the side housings. looks pretty spiffy atm. Yes an intercooler would be nice, but I don't have the time (ive been waiting over 4 years to just drive it), money, any more mandrel bends, or space back there for one atm :p Later on i can add one but im not too worried.

Here are some pics:

 

That's nice looking. I think my Cosmo engine should look like that. I just got done loading the rotors with new stuff. I decided to port mine so just a little bit of finishing touches and she'll be ready for assembly.

By the way I'm also going to build a 13B for a friend's rotary baja. Still deciding on colors. Any suggestions?

 

Jeff, do you think you can run this car without an intercooler? Surely your opinion is worth it's weight in gold.

I think it's necessary. Not just recommended, Necessary.

 

On the baja, is it an all tube frame? if so, what color is the roll cage? if not, what color is the bug body. where are you running it? sand or dirt? If you wanna match the car then go ahead, but if you want a rugged terrain style, match where you are running, it sort of gives a cool look. If not, make it sparkle and stand out i always say And about the intercooler, I mean someone said 200 degrees is a possible temp of the air, the water temp is close to that as it is, im not too worried. If you have a solid reason as to what happens then let me know. My dad used to turbocharge his cars back i nthe day without intercoolers and he said they ran fine. Just to be sure, I might add some temp sensors but other than that, the engine will prolly not have an intercooler for now. I don't wanna re-fab all those pipes anyways. :p The clutch and flywheel are on, going to attach the turbos and a manifold tonight. Its getting there ppl!!! haha

 

Today I will be dropping in the engine back onto the transaxle in the bug! After that only a few pipes and some turbos to stick on One question though, I can't figure out how to align the CAS on the engine. I have got the pulley aligned with the finger and dimples properly but there are two lines or something i need to match right?, any info on how you guys do it would help.