Oil Pan Swap
#1
Oil Pan Swap
Okay,
Just want to make sure I am not going to screw something up here.
I am currently swapping a 13bt into my RX 2. I have an RX 4 oil pan that I will be using to get the engine to fit into my car.
Here is what I think I should be doing with the oil pan swap:
1. Flip the oil pan around, so that the sump is facing toward the rear of the car. E.G put in on backwards.
2. In order to put it on backwards I will have to drill about 4 to 6 holes, in the pan, to get the new configuration to match the holes on the block.
3. Modify the oil pick up, so that it will fit into the proper place in the sump now that pan is turned around.
Does this sound about right?
Am I missing anything?
Any suggestions or help is always greatly appreciated.
Thanks
David
Just want to make sure I am not going to screw something up here.
I am currently swapping a 13bt into my RX 2. I have an RX 4 oil pan that I will be using to get the engine to fit into my car.
Here is what I think I should be doing with the oil pan swap:
1. Flip the oil pan around, so that the sump is facing toward the rear of the car. E.G put in on backwards.
2. In order to put it on backwards I will have to drill about 4 to 6 holes, in the pan, to get the new configuration to match the holes on the block.
3. Modify the oil pick up, so that it will fit into the proper place in the sump now that pan is turned around.
Does this sound about right?
Am I missing anything?
Any suggestions or help is always greatly appreciated.
Thanks
David
#5
I definetly want to re-weld a new tube on if I can get someone to do it for me.
Any Volunteers?
Seriously, if someone has access to welding equipment, in the LA, Socal area, and knows what they are doing, I need a welder/Fabricator for a couple of items on my project.
David
Any Volunteers?
Seriously, if someone has access to welding equipment, in the LA, Socal area, and knows what they are doing, I need a welder/Fabricator for a couple of items on my project.
David
#6
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by wackyracer
That can create a restriction. I prefer cutting and rewelding the tube.
That can create a restriction. I prefer cutting and rewelding the tube.
#7
RX for fun
iTrader: (13)
Originally posted by Jesuscookies
I definetly want to re-weld a new tube on if I can get someone to do it for me.
Any Volunteers?
Seriously, if someone has access to welding equipment, in the LA, Socal area, and knows what they are doing, I need a welder/Fabricator for a couple of items on my project.
David
I definetly want to re-weld a new tube on if I can get someone to do it for me.
Any Volunteers?
Seriously, if someone has access to welding equipment, in the LA, Socal area, and knows what they are doing, I need a welder/Fabricator for a couple of items on my project.
David
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#8
Originally posted by wackyracer
Ask around in your area. Majority of machine shops would have welding equipment. BTW, i think my bro bought the one piece drive shaft from you.
Ask around in your area. Majority of machine shops would have welding equipment. BTW, i think my bro bought the one piece drive shaft from you.
David
#12
when I put a 13Bt in my RX3 I used a stock early 13b oil pan and left the sump at the rear and used the stock oil pick up. I did change the front cover for early style mounts. not sure why you are turning it around ?
Ken.
Ken.
#14
Originally posted by rxrotary2_7
a 13b swap is different for an rx2 and rx3. cross member is in the way on an rx2 as an rx3 it isnt.
a 13b swap is different for an rx2 and rx3. cross member is in the way on an rx2 as an rx3 it isnt.
Ken, if you ever have a chance take a look under an RX 2. You will see a big *** piece of cross section that is right where the oil sump would go if I used a stock oil pan, in its stock location.
The standard procedure for this problem is to take an old 13b pan, or a GSL SE pan, and flip it around so that the sump effectively moves to the rear. You can also get a custom for $350, I think Moroso makes a custom too.
I should be taking pictures of this project, but I am too broke to afford a good digital camera!!!!
David
#15
Still, if u can take some photos that would be neat to see. You might think back on this and wish you had. It's better to have taken some with any type of camer, then not take any at all. =|
#16
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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OIL PAN
AFTER YOU DRILL THE HOLES TAKE A PIECE OF HALF IN STOCK AND PUT IT ALONG WHERE THE BOLT HOLES ARE,OF COURSE YOU'LL HAVE TO DRILL THEM OUT BUT IT WILL HELP FOR STRENGTH
#18
RX for fun
iTrader: (13)
i think he is talking about a brace of some sort. If he is then, here's an idea, just cut out the flanges out of the 12-a oil pan and just retain the 4 corners about 2 inches long on each side. It wil give extra support to the drilled out oil pan.
here's how it will look
bottom of engine
reversed pan
12-a flanges
bolt.
i hope you get the picture. i wanna apologized in advanced for bad explanation. Too much beer.
here's how it will look
bottom of engine
reversed pan
12-a flanges
bolt.
i hope you get the picture. i wanna apologized in advanced for bad explanation. Too much beer.
#19
Originally posted by wackyracer
i think he is talking about a brace of some sort. If he is then, here's an idea, just cut out the flanges out of the 12-a oil pan and just retain the 4 corners about 2 inches long on each side. It wil give extra support to the drilled out oil pan.
here's how it will look
bottom of engine
reversed pan
12-a flanges
bolt.
i hope you get the picture. i wanna apologized in advanced for bad explanation. Too much beer.
i think he is talking about a brace of some sort. If he is then, here's an idea, just cut out the flanges out of the 12-a oil pan and just retain the 4 corners about 2 inches long on each side. It wil give extra support to the drilled out oil pan.
here's how it will look
bottom of engine
reversed pan
12-a flanges
bolt.
i hope you get the picture. i wanna apologized in advanced for bad explanation. Too much beer.
#22
Lives on the Forum
yeah, try this stuff called "the right stuff" its black and a bit pricey... but it works great! comes in either a can with a spout or in a larger tube that looks like caulk... you also need a POS caulk gun to squeese it out.
#23
Originally posted by rxrotary2_7
yeah, try this stuff called "the right stuff" its black and a bit pricey... but it works great! comes in either a can with a spout or in a larger tube that looks like caulk... you also need a POS caulk gun to squeese it out.
yeah, try this stuff called "the right stuff" its black and a bit pricey... but it works great! comes in either a can with a spout or in a larger tube that looks like caulk... you also need a POS caulk gun to squeese it out.
I will see if I can find some.
Thanks
#24
YES!!!!
So I go out and buy a Helicoil set to rethread the hole. Unbeliveable, 40 fckn bucks!!!
I stop off on the way back and ask a friend if there is anything else I can do. He says to just use a longer bolt that is threaded all the way to the bottom. I do, and lo and behold, it works.
So pan swap is offically complete (knock on wood)
Okay, off to Osh to return this Helicoil rethreader crap, and get my money back.
So I go out and buy a Helicoil set to rethread the hole. Unbeliveable, 40 fckn bucks!!!
I stop off on the way back and ask a friend if there is anything else I can do. He says to just use a longer bolt that is threaded all the way to the bottom. I do, and lo and behold, it works.
So pan swap is offically complete (knock on wood)
Okay, off to Osh to return this Helicoil rethreader crap, and get my money back.
#25
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by Jesuscookies
I am guessing, I will fill the hole with this before I rethread?
I will see if I can find some.
Thanks
I am guessing, I will fill the hole with this before I rethread?
I will see if I can find some.
Thanks
glad everything worked out for you.
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