Ash.B

So I had a friend come over to have a look while I was at work, managed to get this:

IMG_0800_zps9b43c3c5.mp4 Video by sup_dawgTT | Photobucket

Ash.B

Idle is around 1750 RPM I will adjust that tomorrow after work. Took it for a quick drive to see how it would react and its hopeless, the acceleration is terrible and takes pretty much the full 5K RPM to reach 60km/h in second gear. I am not sure what to look at when dealing with poor acceleration but I think the trailing plugs are not firing could that be the cause? You can hear in the video it sounds like its running on the leading plugs only

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

You need 2 get a REAL tuner,installer,mechanic 2 sort this issue out!You have been dealing with this issue for months and spending your hard earn money and still nothing!Even if trailing is not firing the car will run like nothing in fact some people does not run trailing at all!Here is what you should do............take out the megasquirt and harness get a USED MICROTECH get it install by a professional and enjoy your car.

Ash.B

Honestly that is the option I have already gone through, ECU is on order and the tuner is waiting for it to come down. I want to get this crappy computer running so I can drive the car while waiting for the new ECU. Microtech is on order with new coils, wiring harness and a good tuner

Could timing be the problem of no power?

.::evil inside::.

Of course the acceleration is terrible, it's got no power because it sounds like it's running on one rotor! Your tuner is a muppet and he's pulling your leg and taking you for a ride. Either that, or one of your rotors has no compression. Which is it?

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see and hear it running again. Out of curiosity what ended up being the root cause preventing it from firing up?

For the lack of power, I'd look into the fueling side of the house. When the secondaries are kicking in, whats your wideband showing for AFR? Figure stock fueling anticipates the extra air coming from the turbo's on the REW.

Ash.B

I agree the tuner has messed me around a lot so I am going microtech but it's not here yet so just trying to get the car working while it sits. Done compression again after a start up and I have 96psi on front rotor and 100psi on the rear. I think those compression numbers are good? How to check if it's running on one rotor? I will try to set the ecu up today after work.

No idea Wildman923 but I adjusted dwell settings and it fire up mint for a few minutes then dropped down to idling as you hear it on the video. The stock fueling "should" have been tuned to the non turbo engine but knowing my luck the tuner wouldn't have done anything at all since he's a muppet.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

crap i cant see the video

S4 Vert

Congratulations Ash.B !!! Nice to see you finished your MX5 RE swap and that it is running !!

Ash.B

Thank you guys very much but I am not out of the woods yet, it runs be it very badly do tuning will commence once I get a old lap top to work with the ECU and try my luck at communicating with it. If I can get it leaned out from being so rich and set timing I am praying it will fix the bogging and power loss

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

When doing a compression test remember each rotor has three faces. You can have a bad side seal or a bad apex seal and you will still show compression because there is still one or more faces still good. In order to tell if you have a bad apex seal or side seal you have to take the Schroeder valve out of the compression tester and then watch the gauge on the compression tester as you crank the engine. On a good engine you should get three equal needle sweeps. If you get two equal needle sweeps and one low one than you have a bad side seal. If you get one good and two bad than you have a bad apex seal.

Ash.B

Sorry sorry I didnt mention that which is stupid I got 3 even readings at 96-97-96 on the front rotor so I just went with 96psi but I should have been more clear. The rear rotor showed 100psi dead even on all faces, I did remember to take the valve out as I followed the guides online

A small update is I cleaned the plugs, adjusted the top and lower idle adjustment screws as the tuner left the bottom fully open and tried to compensate the high idle by adjusting the top screw which just made the throttle cable loose and the car hard to start, I have it idling at 1600RPM but there is no back fire and the mixture is good so I have finally stabalized the idle and back fire/ surging. The cleaned plugs combined with not over fueling on start up has allowed me to get the car back to the normal lovely pulsing Only thing now is I need to adjust the fuel table on the ECU which will allow me to add load aka drive the car and not foul the plugs as well as lower the idle by closing the throttle plates more and have it not lean out/over fuel

Ash.B

Sorry for the crap video

IMG_0801_zps5965ff9a.mp4 Video by sup_dawgTT | Photobucket

Ash.B

Ok so I spent the whole day trying to communicate with the ECU and it wouldnt so I just reverted to getting the idle right with cold starting. It doesnt like starting from cold if the idle is adjusted when its warm meaning the two idle screws are wound down closing the throttle plates. So today I worked more and found a trade off between keeping the lower adjustment screw open a fair bit and tightening the throttle cable adjustment so on cold starts there is still enough air going in (I hold the throttle open a touch) and it starts.

I have the rear plugs fouling every now and then but for the most part I can get it running properly almost every start. Now just tune left, I have found it rich on idle to around 2300 RPM and then lean under moderate load (going up my driveway) but not enough to detonate

IMG_0804_zpsb4536b6e.mp4 Video by sup_dawgTT | Photobucket

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

Sounding good, very glad to hear about it running better. Can't wait to see some drive vids. Your build has helped motivate me to get my tail in gear to get mine done . Funny thing is I'm also fighting with a high idle. Did manage to get it down to 1700'ish by fiddling with the IAC duty cycle in the ECU.
Does make me wonder why the ECU on your build isn't allowing a connection though. Granite I have no experience with anything other than my link, but for me it's plug in the USB cable, turn the car on, and push the connect button and it connects showing me all the system parameters.

Ash.B

I am glad you are getting motivated to finish yours as its going to be epic I cant wait to see yours running. I am hopefully getting a tune either on the 18th or sooner if the tuner comes back from his wedding

no idea why the ECU doesnt communicate with the laptop but it could just be a crap old laptop lol, I have a base map already so I just need to get the dam warm up and start up fuel maps sorted so its not so rich, makes starting hard as it fouls so easily.

tinytyrant

iTrader: (3)

k'n electronics!

well, at least your compression is good.

after all this mucking around some guru is probably gonna wander in, stick his head under the bonnet, wiggle a wire and she'll run perfect... hopefully.

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

I'm actually driving mine to the shop tomorrow for new tires, alignment, and state inspection. If I remember to I'll shoot a quick vid for ya.

Ash.B

YAY I want a video of the car Congrats on getting it finished, glad yours is running mint enough to drive ;p

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't use the word mint, still running pig rich and still a lot of finish work to do. But its getting there. Have to be able to drive it to at least get it tuned for the street, trying to avoid tickets while doing so.

How's your timing look for the new ECU?

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

Here's a vid of mine I shot today at the shop:

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

OMG!!! I love that it has the steel wheels...very sleeper. Car sounds very tuff!

Ash.B

WOW congrats on getting a super motivational video up, the car sounds great dude top notch

Ash.B

I have an exciting update. Started the car after work today, was warming it up and planning on stopping by the petrol station to fill air in the tyres and some petrol in the tank when the car died. Hmm interesting I though as I had enough petrol so I checked the engine quickly to find....the fuel pressure regulator hose had come off causing the regulator to become stuck closed and pushed all the fuel upwards through the intake and was pouring nicely over my hot engine literally bubbling away. I soaked it up as fast as I could just hoping it didnt cause any engine damage, I have deflooded the engine and alot of fuel came out but I just hope I can dry it all out to start it again and burn everything off.

Guess the vacuum clamps I supplied were not good enough to use for him and nothing securing those hoses was the best option

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

Holy hell, thank goodness you were at home when it happened. That could have been soo much worse.