Ash.B

Thanks Tinytyrant, I am premixing at the moment a little too much I think since it smokes a little but at least I have oil in there right. I am buying new stock OMP lines and hopefully getting enough oil to the second rotor and then going stock FD intake since the carb sucks in my opinion. Sorting out a oil leak, throttle return spring and the car shuts down on sharp turns so that all needs addressing But it works.

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

Grats on the build! Hopefully I'll be joining you in the ranks of street driven in the next month.

Ash.B

Awesome Wildman923, I am not sure how daily yours will be but as long as you dont have a carb you will be fine I really hate watching that fuel gauge move but that is because the carb is too rich and will be re jetted after certification Either that or I get a stock FD manifold before that

Ash.B

Motor is stuffed. No idea whats wrong but its idling at around 1000RPM and fouling the rear leading plug so I have no idea whats going on. Fuel pressure is low but fuel is getting there since its fouling the plug, replaced coil packs, leads and plugs with new items and still no joy. Front rotor leading is firing fine and is clean ;(

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

Hows the trailing plug look on the rear rotor? Is the rear rotor just getting more fuel than the front? Higher idle normally indicates a vacuum leak. Possibly a slight vacuum leak allowing the front to run leaner ...

Ash.B

Trailing and leading plugs are black on the second rotor, perfect on the front rotor. I have new coils,leads and plugs and have fuel going to the carb I am just wondering if the premixing has clogged the fuel pump/filter since its getting low fuel pressure. Also the idle is low since it was idling at 1200 RPM steady as set by the ECU so idle is affected hence why I think its running on only one rotor.

I might try the ATF trick?

Ash.B

Spent a around an hour or more un flooding the engine, no idea how a large amount of fuel went into the engine but it was a crap load. I have cleaned the new plugs and will try and start it tomorrow morning.

I have no idea if this is possible but could the rear spark plugs have gotten fouled during the week last week while I used it and reached a point where they stopped burning allowing fuel to build up in the second housing? I never red lined the car nor fully opened the throttle bar one time during the whole week of constant use not sure if that played a part in this problem?

tinytyrant

iTrader: (3)

un-flooding the engine? how much fuel we talking?

even with no spark most of the unburnt fuel would be pumped out the exhaust, surely?

hopefully it is not a compression issue.

Ash.B

I tested compression as thats what I thought but nope compression is good. I have no idea how so much fuel got in there we are talking a fairly thick amount of mist coming out the 4-5 times I held the starter for around 6-7 seconds. I will re test today and see if that made a difference, I had no back firing on deceleration when it was running so I dont think any over fueling was happening but I dont know what else could be wrong now.

tinytyrant

iTrader: (3)

what about fuel pumps and fuel delivery pressure?

too much pressure can cause issues with either carbs or injectors i think.

Ash.B

Fuel pressure is a stable 3 psi but it just stopped starting now so Iv given it to the guy that wired the car up

Ash.B

So apparently its the carb but this mechanic/electrician is a pain to deal with but no one else works with Megasquirt took him 3 days so far to tell me he thinks its the carb....thanks for that mate. Its ok though I have a stock FD intake system ready for next Thursday when I get paid to pick up and install then tune and be happy to never have to deal with him again.

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

3 is low. If mem serves me correctly want to be around 6 'ish. That would explain it dying out going around turns and such. Looking like its a combo of low fuel pressure and the carb being tuned too rich to compensate for the lower fuel pressure.

Ash.B

Oh shoot wow did not know that since I thought most Holley carbs want around 3psi and no more? So the fuel pump would have caused the lean issue and the richness would have caused the flooding?

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

That's my guess, I am in no way an expert on carbs though. Could be the carb just needs a rebuild or has some gunk built up causing these issues. What fuel pump are you using?

Ash.B

using a Ford Courier carb pump so it pumps 3psi as I found the Holley needs. I am however going back to a stock FD intake setup and turbo fuel pump so that should take care off all the problems and finally give me the car to use or sell as I am deciding on keeping it or buying a FD RX7

Ash.B

Update time:

Stock intake manifold bought, I have a TPS sensor and bought some cleaned and tested primary and secondary injectors with stock fuel rails and stock regulators so I will drop them off tomorrow to be installed and tuned, all I am waiting for now is the stock RX7 turbo fuel pump I bought to supply the correct amount of fuel . Turned the motor over to test compression and got a dead even 100psi on all 3 rotor faces per rotor so I am pretty happy its not the motor thats broken and just hoping its the carb now.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

The Holley needs 6 psi. Or it is supposed to. Is yours different?

Ash.B

No idea Jeff20B, I was told get a 3 psi low pressure fuel pump and so thats what I got ;( Its ok though now I have the stock intake setup and fuel pump so no more problems I hope

Ash.B

Stock intake manifold, injectors and rails dropped off and gave him a new OEM lower intake manifold gasket too so I hope that should be the fix to the one rotor problem. Currently waiting on a turbo FD fuel pump to drop off to him when it arrives and then tune ;D

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

I'm not a stand alone knowledgeable person, but why do you need to run a megasquirt with a carb setup...is it for the ignition purposes? Now that you are going fuel injected the MS will be a great benefit to you, but I didnt see its purpose on the holley set up.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ Collin, the REW does not have a distributer that would be the reason for the standalone. So yes, it is for ignition.

Ash.B

Thank you very much RENESISFD that is exactly why I had to run the Megasquirt. I was weighing up going distributor and scrapping a ECU but I knew that I would be going injected sooner or later and that the people selling a front cover and distributor set up wanted the same amount as the Megasquirt so it seemed easier to just get a ECU.

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Thanks John...I was wanting to ask that question for a while lol

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Thanks Ash...I'm surprised to hear that people want that much for a front cover and distrib set up. Car is coming out nicely. Hope it all gets sorted out for you soon. It has to be getting expensive going back and forth to the mechanic (auto electrician).