Old School and Other Rotary Old School and Other Rotary Powered Vehicles including performance modifications and technical support

My First ever build!!!!!!

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Old 09-09-15, 12:10 AM
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s4/5 would be the cheapest most effective way to do the job . The motor and t2 trans would drop right in a repu
Old 09-09-15, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by mattallac
s4/5 would be the cheapest most effective way to do the job . The motor and t2 trans would drop right in a repu
The factory exhaust manifold and turbo dont fit inside the frame rails properly. Also the shifter hole alignment is too far forward for a t2 tranny.
Old 09-09-15, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by almoststockrepu
The factory exhaust manifold and turbo dont fit inside the frame rails properly. Also the shifter hole alignment is too far forward for a t2 tranny.

your right looks to be a tight squeeze in the repu engine bay for the exhaust manifold. probably why its not a popular conversion.
Old 09-09-15, 10:09 AM
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Easy fix , modify a turbo header , they are pretty cheap . As for the trans , shorten an fb shifter housing and you gain 5" forward . There is plenty of room in a repu engine bay to do almost anything with minimal mods. Try fitting all of that in an rx2 and it starts getting tight. Injection perfection TB wont fit on that manifold its a IDF size where as the injection perfection is IDA size . The manifold is also for a 12a . At the end of the day there is a big expensive explosion of parts thrown at the truck . Stock t2 or RE intakes are cheap and make great HP with great street manners , big throaty TB will work and are great for drag racing but normally have bad response off of the bottom . T2 ,RE and REW manifolds were engineered by Mazda for turbo applications and will work poorly if not at all on an N/A motor .

Last edited by mattallac; 09-09-15 at 04:11 PM.
Old 09-09-15, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mattallac
Easy fix , modify a turbo header , they are pretty cheap . As for the trans , shorten an fb shifter housing and you gain 5" forward . There is plenty of room in a repu engine bay to do almost anything with minimal mods. Try fitting all of that in an rx2 and it starts getting tight. Injection perfection TB wont fit on that manifold its a IDF size where as the injection perfection is IDA size . The manifold is also for a 12a . At the end of the day there is a big expensive explosion of parts thrown at the truck . Stock t2 or RE intakes are cheap and make great HP with great street manners , big throaty TB will work and are great for drag racing but normally have bad response off of the bottom . T2 ,RE and REW manifolds were engineered by Mazda for turbo applications and will work poorly if not at all on an N/A motor .
I guess you could do all that but depends how far he wants to go with it bro.

you can buy the intake manifold to suit 13b turbo for the injection perfection off that site to. id just stay N/A for now until he fixes the rust and gets it sprayed then sort the motor out.
Old 09-09-15, 10:40 PM
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The FI you like is a bit pricey here in the states , all builds take work and $ . Building it twice takes more $ . For this first build I would N/A it as you said and if he wants turbo pick up a motor that suits a turbo . I have been in this rotary thing for over 20 years and done more mods than I care to talk about and what Mazda designs (turbo , apex seals ,etc. ) always seems to work the best for street use . This thread seems like a parts swap from what I have seen and I hope this repu gets on the road for some good burn outs soon.
Old 09-10-15, 05:02 AM
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yea it is a bit pricey plus shipping on top would be a killer. your right im building my first rx7 at the moment, the money and time you spend on the car starts to add up pretty quickly. iv heard the same thing also mazda didn't spend all that money in R&D for nothing. I hope it makes it on the road to.
Old 09-11-15, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mattallac
Easy fix , modify a turbo header , they are pretty cheap . As for the trans , shorten an fb shifter housing and you gain 5" forward . There is plenty of room in a repu engine bay to do almost anything with minimal mods. Try fitting all of that in an rx2 and it starts getting tight. Injection perfection TB wont fit on that manifold its a IDF size where as the injection perfection is IDA size . The manifold is also for a 12a . At the end of the day there is a big expensive explosion of parts thrown at the truck . Stock t2 or RE intakes are cheap and make great HP with great street manners , big throaty TB will work and are great for drag racing but normally have bad response off of the bottom . T2 ,RE and REW manifolds were engineered by Mazda for turbo applications and will work poorly if not at all on an N/A motor .
2 good videos on the TII Shifter mod.
Old 09-11-15, 02:04 PM
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Those videos are good if installing the fc turbo trans in a fb which only needs a little over an inch cut in length.any oldschool would need about 5" cut off so it sits in the cars floor opening.would require a fb shifter housing cut about 4" and the turbo II shifter rod cut about 5".

I got 3 turbo transmissions need to do this to soon.1 for a rx3,1 for a rx2, and the other for a fb..
Old 09-13-15, 03:40 PM
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Ok guys I need HELP!!!!! 1st of all the engine is bone stock, the only mods are (84) ignition, racing beat header. So I installed a IDF weber system, I installed it and worked on it all day I finally got it to run for about 3minuts then I took the gas pedal off and it shut off. I tried to restart it and it wouldn't. can someone look at the pics and see what I have done working? thank you all in advance.



















Old 09-19-15, 09:45 AM
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you have probably flooded it.
did you get the webber jetted for your engine ?
Old 09-22-15, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by sandy_RE
you have probably flooded it.
did you get the webber jetted for your engine ?
Yes I flooded it, and no I didn't get it jetted for my engine. but I could use some information on jetting it.
Old 09-23-15, 06:53 AM
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http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/webercomponents.pdf

never jetted one myself but have a read that should help you out in getting it running properly.
Old 09-23-15, 07:07 AM
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but it all depends on your engine and the climtate of where you live to get the jetting right.

Last edited by sandy_RE; 09-24-15 at 07:05 AM.
Old 09-23-15, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by sandy_RE
http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/webercomponents.pdf

never jetted one myself but have a read that should help you out in getting it running properly.
awesome thank you for the link
Old 09-23-15, 11:57 PM
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THats a turbo manifold , not made for N/A .
Old 09-24-15, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mattallac
THats a turbo manifold , not made for N/A .
Ummmm. correction, but the manifold is universal..... the weber hat is removable and was made for Turbo, w/o the hat it is just a plain set up.
Old 09-24-15, 10:16 AM
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Make up what ever convinces you differently but its not made for N/A. Throw jets at it and it still won't be right . I have showed you examples of N/A and turbo manifolds , but I guess you have better info. In a F.I. set up you can't use a RE or REW intake and runner system on an N/A motor , thats why mazda made an N/A intake and runner system . THe same principals apply here . Lastly , its a cartech turbo manifold . This manifold was engineered by Corky Bell (owner of cartech) for his turbo setup . Nothing about the manifold is universal .

Last edited by mattallac; 09-24-15 at 10:25 AM.
Old 09-30-15, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mattallac
THats a turbo manifold , not made for N/A .
ok this is going to be good So,what's the difference between a "turbo" and a "regular non-turbo" downdraft weber manifold? I really like to know!!!!!

Last edited by Medevack1; 09-30-15 at 12:53 PM.
Old 09-30-15, 09:48 PM
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It is good , read your own thread and you will get the answer ( i posted it a few pages ago ) . It seems all you do is post a question and don't read the answers . Along with that you try to up your post count with stupid comments . Right now is the time maybe you should read and then humble yourself . Its your first build and some seasoned members are trying to help you and you aren't listening . You have destroyed some historic valuable parts and don't care . With your attitude you will find yourself alone in the old school section as fast as you entered .
Old 10-01-15, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mattallac
It is good , read your own thread and you will get the answer ( i posted it a few pages ago ) . It seems all you do is post a question and don't read the answers . Along with that you try to up your post count with stupid comments . Right now is the time maybe you should read and then humble yourself . Its your first build and some seasoned members are trying to help you and you aren't listening . You have destroyed some historic valuable parts and don't care . With your attitude you will find yourself alone in the old school section as fast as you entered .
I totally understand where you are coming from but i'm not trying to up my count I can do that on other posts, as far as Questions, well I though this forum was founded and build on people asking questions and shearing information, Yes i'm a Rookie I know that but so was a lot of other people on here, And yes I do read the answers to my questions, when you said I destroyed historic valuable parts what do you exactly mean? I still have all the original parts. with that being said thank you all for the valuable information I have received.
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