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Ok guys I need some help here my 13b is stock only mods so far is MSD coils, RB header, RB intake manifold and Holley 600 she idels good but when given gas she either chokes or is running lean. I took the Jets out and this is what I got.
Squirter is 28
Jets are Stamped 661. I couldn't find anything on the web about it.
Ok guys I need some help here my 13b is stock only mods so far is MSD coils, RB header, RB intake manifold and Holley 600 she idels good but when given gas she either chokes or is running lean. I took the Jets out and this is what I got.
Squirter is 28
Jets are Stamped 661. I couldn't find anything on the web about it.
Rich/ lean staging sounds like it's off. This is controlled by your main jets and a predrilled orifice in the metering block under the power valve. Size your main jets so it cruises well first. Then reduce the size of the two orifices covered by the power valve with appropriately sized wire. Bent the wire into an omega shape so it clears the power valve and sits in each power valve jet opening. You will need to tune to determine the diameter of wire needed. Use effective diameter to keep track of the change in area of the power valve passages. EffectiveDiameter=Square Root (PVOrificeDiameter^2 - WireDiameter^2)
I like to use soldered jets and an index drill bit set to rough in main jet sizes. I solder up the jets that are way to big for anything I will use. Then I buy the right size plus and minus one size later.
What was the reason for getting a double pulley then Gilmer kit?
After getting the double belt pulley, I found out about the Glimer kit and loved it. so I got it...
Originally Posted by sandy_RE
your gonna hate dealing with all that rust by the end of it all. good luck with the rest of the build!
Thank you.... as far as the build and the rust I might just concentrate on the engine and little by little do the body work. I suffer from PTSD from the war and working on the truck takes my mind of things, so I don't mind the rust .. lol it keeps me busy
Rich/ lean staging sounds like it's off. This is controlled by your main jets and a predrilled orifice in the metering block under the power valve. Size your main jets so it cruises well first. Then reduce the size of the two orifices covered by the power valve with appropriately sized wire. Bent the wire into an omega shape so it clears the power valve and sits in each power valve jet opening. You will need to tune to determine the diameter of wire needed. Use effective diameter to keep track of the change in area of the power valve passages. EffectiveDiameter=Square Root (PVOrificeDiameter^2 - WireDiameter^2)
I like to use soldered jets and an index drill bit set to rough in main jet sizes. I solder up the jets that are way to big for anything I will use. Then I buy the right size plus and minus one size later.
Why couldn't they just use the actual drilled orifice size instead? Why go through the extra steps? 1.5% wow!
Yes, a little odd. What is tough for me to get is the difference between a 661 and a 653. There's ~3.1% difference in area between 0.66" and 0.65". Unless I'm missing something, 1.5% down from 0.66" and 1.5% up from 0.65" would be almost identical.
I respect how ambitious you are on your first build , I have been into rotary for about 20 years and have been building high quality builds for about 10 years . I would like to give you some tips that will hopefully make your journey a little easier : 1 take a welding class , anyone who were to buy this truck from you would be pretty pissed if they found this hack repair 2. The holly you have on your RB manifold is not jetted or calibrated for a rotary , do your diligence and find out what needs to be done , these carbs work great ( although I hate holly carbs ) when tuned correctly .3 If this is your first build a turbo setup is not only tricky but complicated for longevity and from what I have seen your skill set and diligence are not ready for this project . IMO work out the bugs with your holly , Racing Beats tech line is extremely helpful .I hope this helps you . Here are some of my cars , they are getting harder to find and most of us on this forum would like to see them survive .
I respect how ambitious you are on your first build , I have been into rotary for about 20 years and have been building high quality builds for about 10 years . I would like to give you some tips that will hopefully make your journey a little easier : 1 take a welding class , anyone who were to buy this truck from you would be pretty pissed if they found this hack repair 2. The holly you have on your RB manifold is not jetted or calibrated for a rotary , do your diligence and find out what needs to be done , these carbs work great ( although I hate holly carbs ) when tuned correctly .3 If this is your first build a turbo setup is not only tricky but complicated for longevity and from what I have seen your skill set and diligence are not ready for this project . IMO work out the bugs with your holly , Racing Beats tech line is extremely helpful .I hope this helps you . Here are some of my cars , they are getting harder to find and most of us on this forum would like to see them survive .
I respect how ambitious you are on your first build , I have been into rotary for about 20 years and have been building high quality builds for about 10 years . I would like to give you some tips that will hopefully make your journey a little easier : 1 take a welding class , anyone who were to buy this truck from you would be pretty pissed if they found this hack repair 2. The holly you have on your RB manifold is not jetted or calibrated for a rotary , do your diligence and find out what needs to be done , these carbs work great ( although I hate holly carbs ) when tuned correctly .3 If this is your first build a turbo setup is not only tricky but complicated for longevity and from what I have seen your skill set and diligence are not ready for this project . IMO work out the bugs with your holly , Racing Beats tech line is extremely helpful .I hope this helps you . Here are some of my cars , they are getting harder to find and most of us on this forum would like to see them survive .
Hey Mattallac, was that REPU up for sale on ebay not too long ago and was air bagged? Also still have those volks???
I respect how ambitious you are on your first build , I have been into rotary for about 20 years and have been building high quality builds for about 10 years . I would like to give you some tips that will hopefully make your journey a little easier : 1 take a welding class , anyone who were to buy this truck from you would be pretty pissed if they found this hack repair 2. The holly you have on your RB manifold is not jetted or calibrated for a rotary , do your diligence and find out what needs to be done , these carbs work great ( although I hate holly carbs ) when tuned correctly .3 If this is your first build a turbo setup is not only tricky but complicated for longevity and from what I have seen your skill set and diligence are not ready for this project . IMO work out the bugs with your holly , Racing Beats tech line is extremely helpful .I hope this helps you . Here are some of my cars , they are getting harder to find and most of us on this forum would like to see them survive .
Thank you for all the advise as a matter of fact I just signed up for a welding class at the local community college... , as far as the turbo goes that's on hold for now the more I do research on it the more I drift away from it. I do appreciate everything. BTW nice work on your car collection.
The repu was never on e bay , no bags. my friend (who owns it now ) would like to sell it . The folks are still on the truck , they are hard to find in 6 lug .
Good luck on the truck , a blow through turbo can be a tricky job . I'm doing a blow through on my rx2 12a with an original water to air inner cooled carteck kit .
The repu was never on e bay , no bags. my friend (who owns it now ) would like to sell it . The folks are still on the truck , they are hard to find in 6 lug .
Good luck on the truck , a blow through turbo can be a tricky job . I'm doing a blow through on my rx2 12a with an original water to air inner cooled carteck kit .
Nice would lobe to see pics of the RX2 12a blow through system and car.
I wish you hadn't done that . That manifold you just ported was a cartech turbo manifold , the secondary runners aren't matched in length because it doesn't matter on a turbo . That porting will hinder performance . If the weber is a 44mm its an early and a 40 mm was late . The 40mm had better performance gains and drivability . That manifold is no good for N/A applications .The early r.e. 44idf manifold is good for n/a because the runners are the same as in pic 3. Lastly there are no need for air horns on a turbo application.
maybe look into a injection perfection type throttle body bro along with a fuel only ECU of your choice instead of using the weber if your going to go turbo.
it might cost a bit more but will make better power, be more tuner friendly and the car would be more reliable wich will make things a bit easier, but it all depends on what you want out of the car at the end of the day.
That kit is for n/a , 40mm would be more suited for street turbo system . I 've been looking at efi hardware for one of my n/a builds .Fuel injection will usually add torque, 20-30 ft. lb. is common. As for a computer , if you are going turbo you need one of the following 1. computer that retards timing 2. full locked or semi locked distributer 3. 12at distributer ( the only distributer that retards under boost ) only problem with the 12at distributer is no one can seem to answer the question " how many degrees it retards " . If it only retards 6 degrees (as some have said in the past)then its not really worth using as 7 psi would be your limit on boost .I personally like the 15 psi range for good HP gains and motor longevity .
That kit is for n/a , 40mm would be more suited for street turbo system . I 've been looking at efi hardware for one of my n/a builds .Fuel injection will usually add torque, 20-30 ft. lb. is common. As for a computer , if you are going turbo you need one of the following 1. computer that retards timing 2. full locked or semi locked distributer 3. 12at distributer ( the only distributer that retards under boost ) only problem with the 12at distributer is no one can seem to answer the question " how many degrees it retards " . If it only retards 6 degrees (as some have said in the past)then its not really worth using as 7 psi would be your limit on boost .I personally like the 15 psi range for good HP gains and motor longevity .
its for both mate few people have used the injection perfection with turbo applications and have built weapons with no issue. the injection perfection will be heaps easier to fine tune then messing around with the weber. carby turbo is old school, I wouldn't waste my time using a distributor with a turbo setup unless It was with a carby and absolutely had to. Spend the money on a ECU you cant go wrong, but its each to there own I guess.
or another option is find a s4/5 turbo block with loom and drop it in (if it fits) high flow the turbo it would be tonnes of fun in the REPU and be a lot easier/cheaper if your looking to go turbo.
08-18-15, 01:17 PM
