My 12a rotary starlet - NOW 13b Turbo2
#226
Nice build! I have always wanted a early Starlet with a Rotary...
Instead I put a 13b REW into a 1969 Mini, and converted it into RWD! Like to do things the REALLY hard way!!! LOL
Don't know how much a turbo2 engine is supposed to make, but my REW (single turbo) is
making 286,5 WHP at 12,33 psi...
Instead I put a 13b REW into a 1969 Mini, and converted it into RWD! Like to do things the REALLY hard way!!! LOL
Don't know how much a turbo2 engine is supposed to make, but my REW (single turbo) is
making 286,5 WHP at 12,33 psi...
#227
Nice build! I have always wanted a early Starlet with a Rotary...
Instead I put a 13b REW into a 1969 Mini, and converted it into RWD! Like to do things the REALLY hard way!!! LOL
Don't know how much a turbo2 engine is supposed to make, but my REW (single turbo) is
making 286,5 WHP at 12,33 psi...
Instead I put a 13b REW into a 1969 Mini, and converted it into RWD! Like to do things the REALLY hard way!!! LOL
Don't know how much a turbo2 engine is supposed to make, but my REW (single turbo) is
making 286,5 WHP at 12,33 psi...
Is your engine stockport, you only have a single turbo and thats all?
I should be around 205-210whp if I go back to the dyno with the BOV installed. I also have issues with my fuel system so I will redo that completely with braided lines.
#228
I have limited skills, but am quite patient and learn as I go along!
The engine is stockport, single turbo (.84 exh./.50 compr).
I run an Adaptronic programmable ECU, so we can tweek it at the Dyno/rollers.
Next step is to up the boost to 14-17 psi and see what it makes.
The engine is stockport, single turbo (.84 exh./.50 compr).
I run an Adaptronic programmable ECU, so we can tweek it at the Dyno/rollers.
Next step is to up the boost to 14-17 psi and see what it makes.
#230
Fuel System:
Well so I was told that the issue I am having is due to fuel press dropping when the car is during load on the streets, so I decided to redo the whole fuel system and relocate the fuel pump as well and to be honest the old fuel system was kinda of messy so I hope this will fix the problem so I can rev this thing hard on the streets .
The fuel tank was leaking also and I tried repairing that but after trying to weld a lot of wholes I decided to ditch the damn tank and install a fuel cell, I ordered one and I am waiting for it to arrive so I can finish everything and test the car.
Well so I was told that the issue I am having is due to fuel press dropping when the car is during load on the streets, so I decided to redo the whole fuel system and relocate the fuel pump as well and to be honest the old fuel system was kinda of messy so I hope this will fix the problem so I can rev this thing hard on the streets .
The fuel tank was leaking also and I tried repairing that but after trying to weld a lot of wholes I decided to ditch the damn tank and install a fuel cell, I ordered one and I am waiting for it to arrive so I can finish everything and test the car.
#231
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Emir, I have some advise on your install. I don't like how close the fuel lines are to the driveshaft. If you have a u joint failure and the driveshaft starts flopping around at any amount of mph, you are asking for a big ball of fire if you know what I mean. I would also move the fuel pump as close to the fuel tank outlet as
possible as it too looks real close to the driveshaft/rearend and try to stay away with butt connectors on wiring. Try and solder the connections together so you don't have to worry about those butt connections coming loose. Good luck, looks like it is coming along.
possible as it too looks real close to the driveshaft/rearend and try to stay away with butt connectors on wiring. Try and solder the connections together so you don't have to worry about those butt connections coming loose. Good luck, looks like it is coming along.
#233
1/4 Mile at a Time
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kennesaw,GA
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Emir, I have some advise on your install. I don't like how close the fuel lines are to the driveshaft. If you have a u joint failure and the driveshaft starts flopping around at any amount of mph, you are asking for a big ball of fire if you know what I mean. I would also move the fuel pump as close to the fuel tank outlet as
possible as it too looks real close to the driveshaft/rearend and try to stay away with butt connectors on wiring. Try and solder the connections together so you don't have to worry about those butt connections coming loose. Good luck, looks like it is coming along.
possible as it too looks real close to the driveshaft/rearend and try to stay away with butt connectors on wiring. Try and solder the connections together so you don't have to worry about those butt connections coming loose. Good luck, looks like it is coming along.
#238
Finally the car is running with no issues . It had a mix of bad things together but they all are sorted now and let me tell you that this thing is fast.
There are still a few minor things like the tranny stick to get fixed but now I can drive the car on the streets and have some fun
The turbo is boosting up to 11-12psi and I am running into fuel cut, guess I will have to get a chipped ECU or get a fcd.
There are still a few minor things like the tranny stick to get fixed but now I can drive the car on the streets and have some fun
The turbo is boosting up to 11-12psi and I am running into fuel cut, guess I will have to get a chipped ECU or get a fcd.
#239
Well the manual doesnt cover that much the IDA series, I will have to buy another one that covers how to tune and troubleshoot idas specially
I have a question for you all.
whats the best way to run a return line when using a weber carb? I have the return line hanging on the engine bay and I would like to plug it into my fpr since my fuel press is dropping and I've read in the forum that in order to fix that I will have to run a return line.
Here is a picture of my current setup.
I wonder if I can just put the return line on the blue blockoff fitting located at the right of my fpr ???
I have a question for you all.
whats the best way to run a return line when using a weber carb? I have the return line hanging on the engine bay and I would like to plug it into my fpr since my fuel press is dropping and I've read in the forum that in order to fix that I will have to run a return line.
Here is a picture of my current setup.
I wonder if I can just put the return line on the blue blockoff fitting located at the right of my fpr ???
Did you ever consider a bypass system? It will help maintain carb bowl pressure to 1/2 lb and also allows constant flow of fuel flow to the entire system making the fuel pump and regulator more responsive to the carburetor and engine.
Good luck with the project
Eric
Straightline Performance
#241
Update
Now the car has a complete exhaust in 2.5 inch with a Universal 2.5 inch RB Muffler. The car is very quiet now and I like it a lot
Car is almost ready to start racing again at the 1/4 mile, still need to get a pair of rear shocks and fix some weird issue with the tranny.
Now the car has a complete exhaust in 2.5 inch with a Universal 2.5 inch RB Muffler. The car is very quiet now and I like it a lot
Car is almost ready to start racing again at the 1/4 mile, still need to get a pair of rear shocks and fix some weird issue with the tranny.