Old School and Other Rotary Old School and Other Rotary Powered Vehicles including performance modifications and technical support

My 12a rotary starlet - NOW 13b Turbo2

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-07-10, 04:46 PM
  #226  
Junior Member
 
RX-Mini's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Norway
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Nice build! I have always wanted a early Starlet with a Rotary...
Instead I put a 13b REW into a 1969 Mini, and converted it into RWD! Like to do things the REALLY hard way!!! LOL
Don't know how much a turbo2 engine is supposed to make, but my REW (single turbo) is
making 286,5 WHP at 12,33 psi...
Old 07-07-10, 04:54 PM
  #227  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by RX-Mini
Nice build! I have always wanted a early Starlet with a Rotary...
Instead I put a 13b REW into a 1969 Mini, and converted it into RWD! Like to do things the REALLY hard way!!! LOL
Don't know how much a turbo2 engine is supposed to make, but my REW (single turbo) is
making 286,5 WHP at 12,33 psi...
Thanks, I saw your mini and your skills are awesome!! it will take years for me to get to your skill level or maybe i wont even get to that lvl

Is your engine stockport, you only have a single turbo and thats all?

I should be around 205-210whp if I go back to the dyno with the BOV installed. I also have issues with my fuel system so I will redo that completely with braided lines.
Old 07-08-10, 01:20 AM
  #228  
Junior Member
 
RX-Mini's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Norway
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have limited skills, but am quite patient and learn as I go along!
The engine is stockport, single turbo (.84 exh./.50 compr).
I run an Adaptronic programmable ECU, so we can tweek it at the Dyno/rollers.
Next step is to up the boost to 14-17 psi and see what it makes.
Old 07-21-10, 11:04 AM
  #229  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Hood Scoop:

Well to be honest the car looks evil now so I cant fool like I used to do other cars on the streets and then spank em

Before:





After:

I will post more pictures of the car with the hood scoop now.

Old 07-21-10, 11:05 AM
  #230  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Fuel System:

Well so I was told that the issue I am having is due to fuel press dropping when the car is during load on the streets, so I decided to redo the whole fuel system and relocate the fuel pump as well and to be honest the old fuel system was kinda of messy so I hope this will fix the problem so I can rev this thing hard on the streets .

The fuel tank was leaking also and I tried repairing that but after trying to weld a lot of wholes I decided to ditch the damn tank and install a fuel cell, I ordered one and I am waiting for it to arrive so I can finish everything and test the car.





Old 07-21-10, 06:12 PM
  #231  
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary

iTrader: (1)
 
ultimatejay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: California
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Emir, I have some advise on your install. I don't like how close the fuel lines are to the driveshaft. If you have a u joint failure and the driveshaft starts flopping around at any amount of mph, you are asking for a big ball of fire if you know what I mean. I would also move the fuel pump as close to the fuel tank outlet as
possible as it too looks real close to the driveshaft/rearend and try to stay away with butt connectors on wiring. Try and solder the connections together so you don't have to worry about those butt connections coming loose. Good luck, looks like it is coming along.
Old 07-21-10, 06:23 PM
  #232  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Thanks for the advise Jay, I will see what I can do then to relocate the lines and the fuel pump can be relocated very easy since I will fab a box on the trunk and the pump can go right there.
Old 07-21-10, 09:06 PM
  #233  
1/4 Mile at a Time

iTrader: (1)
 
oldrotaryman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kennesaw,GA
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ultimatejay
Emir, I have some advise on your install. I don't like how close the fuel lines are to the driveshaft. If you have a u joint failure and the driveshaft starts flopping around at any amount of mph, you are asking for a big ball of fire if you know what I mean. I would also move the fuel pump as close to the fuel tank outlet as
possible as it too looks real close to the driveshaft/rearend and try to stay away with butt connectors on wiring. Try and solder the connections together so you don't have to worry about those butt connections coming loose. Good luck, looks like it is coming along.
Jay has a good point mi pana,,, get those lines away from that shaft....
Old 08-01-10, 05:42 PM
  #234  
Junior Member
 
lilredrex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: corpus christi, TX
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
that thing does look evil!!! sick project
Old 08-01-10, 08:46 PM
  #235  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by oldrotaryman
Jay has a good point mi pana,,, get those lines away from that shaft....
Yea I know, I will see what I can do. You dont have that much of space on a starlet


Originally Posted by lilredrex
that thing does look evil!!! sick project
Thanks!
Old 08-02-10, 10:54 PM
  #236  
RX for fun

iTrader: (13)
 
Siraniko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Socal
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 19 Posts
be careful, someone may yank that copper line off your car and sell it at scrap yard.
Old 08-03-10, 09:33 AM
  #237  
kiwi from downunder..

iTrader: (4)
 
blwfly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: springfield,oregon
Posts: 3,423
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
i dont see what the big deal is on the fuel lines,on my repu the driveline is right next to my tank if it were to break it would destroy it.. guess it dont hurt to be safe
Old 08-23-10, 10:12 AM
  #238  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Finally the car is running with no issues . It had a mix of bad things together but they all are sorted now and let me tell you that this thing is fast.

There are still a few minor things like the tranny stick to get fixed but now I can drive the car on the streets and have some fun

The turbo is boosting up to 11-12psi and I am running into fuel cut, guess I will have to get a chipped ECU or get a fcd.
Old 09-03-10, 04:42 PM
  #239  
Junior Member
 
kamikaze kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Norco
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by n0ferz
Well the manual doesnt cover that much the IDA series, I will have to buy another one that covers how to tune and troubleshoot idas specially

I have a question for you all.

whats the best way to run a return line when using a weber carb? I have the return line hanging on the engine bay and I would like to plug it into my fpr since my fuel press is dropping and I've read in the forum that in order to fix that I will have to run a return line.

Here is a picture of my current setup.

I wonder if I can just put the return line on the blue blockoff fitting located at the right of my fpr ???



First off you have to remove that regulator from the firewall (yikes). It would not pass a tech inspection. Also you have the fittings finish off with a steel braided line. NEVER mount your regulator in a solid state due to vibration. I see this time and time again. common fix is using rubber isolators. In addition regulators should be mounted in front or near of the engine. This will allow the low pressure fuel flow from the regulator to work with the g-force when the car is under throttle.

Did you ever consider a bypass system? It will help maintain carb bowl pressure to 1/2 lb and also allows constant flow of fuel flow to the entire system making the fuel pump and regulator more responsive to the carburetor and engine.

Good luck with the project

Eric
Straightline Performance
Old 09-03-10, 04:48 PM
  #240  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Thanks for your ideas but the car is not running with a 12a anymore, it has a 13b turbo2 now
Old 09-06-10, 09:04 AM
  #241  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Update

Now the car has a complete exhaust in 2.5 inch with a Universal 2.5 inch RB Muffler. The car is very quiet now and I like it a lot

Car is almost ready to start racing again at the 1/4 mile, still need to get a pair of rear shocks and fix some weird issue with the tranny.


Old 09-07-10, 10:24 PM
  #242  
kiwi from downunder..

iTrader: (4)
 
blwfly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: springfield,oregon
Posts: 3,423
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
very nice and straight you didnt consider a 3" exhaust
Old 09-08-10, 08:30 AM
  #243  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by blwfly
very nice and straight you didnt consider a 3" exhaust
Thanks and yes I did consider that but since there is not that much space I decided to go with 2.5'', even with 2.5" I am having fitting issues
Old 09-08-10, 10:16 PM
  #244  
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary

iTrader: (1)
 
ultimatejay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: California
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Looking good Emir. Like mentioned above, a 3 or even 3.5" exhaust will net more power with a turbo car. Turbo's dont' like much back pressure. Take it to the track and let us know what she runs. Good luck
Old 09-08-10, 10:38 PM
  #245  
GSL-SE YA!!!

iTrader: (13)
 
lx_machado's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
looks good, You should post some new videos!
Old 09-09-10, 07:59 AM
  #246  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by ultimatejay
Looking good Emir. Like mentioned above, a 3 or even 3.5" exhaust will net more power with a turbo car. Turbo's dont' like much back pressure. Take it to the track and let us know what she runs. Good luck

Thank you Jay, I guess I will have to change it in the future then and try to fit at least a 3'' exhaust down there


Originally Posted by lx_machado
looks good, You should post some new videos!
Thanks, will keep you guys posted!
Old 09-09-10, 12:06 PM
  #247  
Full Member
 
e_deher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: sxm
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
nice project. how much pressure are you running on your 13b now?
Old 09-09-10, 01:19 PM
  #248  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by e_deher
nice project. how much pressure are you running on your 13b now?
Thanks, you mean pressure as in turbo psi? If so I am running 10-12psi
Old 09-09-10, 02:29 PM
  #249  
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary

iTrader: (1)
 
ultimatejay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: California
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by n0ferz
Thank you Jay, I guess I will have to change it in the future then and try to fit at least a 3'' exhaust down there




Thanks, will keep you guys posted!
Emir, if I were you. I would make your exhaust system have quick disconnect so that you could run the full exhaust when you drive on the street and then for the track you can disconnect it and just run a dump pipe.
Old 09-09-10, 02:32 PM
  #250  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
n0ferz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by ultimatejay
Emir, if I were you. I would make your exhaust system have quick disconnect so that you could run the full exhaust when you drive on the street and then for the track you can disconnect it and just run a dump pipe.
You are right I think this is a better alternative Jay, I will just change my dp with a 3'' and make it a quick disconnect, this is what I will do.

Thanks again.


Quick Reply: My 12a rotary starlet - NOW 13b Turbo2



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:06 AM.