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Lotus 7 replica powered by a turbo 13-B.

Old 09-10-18, 10:22 AM
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PA Lotus 7 replica powered by a turbo 13-B.

Good afternoon everyone, I thought that Iíd swing by and put together a thread about my rotary powered toy. Itís a replica Lotus 7 manufactured by Rotus and Chris Custer in Hagerstown, MD. It has a light-weight tube frame, aluminum body, fiberglass fenders, turbo & intercooled 13-b from an RX-7 Turbo II, Toyota AE86 rear end, Toyota Corolla front uprights/hubs/brakes, 15x7/8 wheels and Toyo tires. It weighs less than 1400# and is tuned to 250 rwhp.

I thought that Iíd introduce myself and the car because I would like to finish it up and will have a bunch of questions for forum members. Specifically wiring and eventual engine upgrades.

Here is a link to a thread that was started years ago when I bought the car. Itís been a while since Iíve done any work on it as life seems to have got in the way(business, new house, ill fiancee and no freakin time). Iím hoping that I can find some time in the next few months to get the car finished-up and driving so the upgrades can begin.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo.../101891/page1/






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Old 09-25-18, 04:04 PM
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Seriously cool build! I bet it's quite a handful to drive though.
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Old 09-26-18, 09:49 AM
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Awesome build, We have a CMC Rotus with just an NA 13b and its plenty fun, and extra 100hp would be exponentially more fun.

That being said, a standalone on this car would go a looong way into cleaning up that engine bay.

Getting rid of that MAF and intake would be priority #1, you could probably have room for a naca duct on the side to feed the turbo from that.

The rest of the emisions stuff can be blocked off and thrown out.

One important thing is that these turbos overboost when combined with a larger less restrictive exhaust. I learned that lesson when we swapped a 13bt in an old RX3 ITA car and hit the dyno and chipped an apex seal... even with a standalone controlling everything.

Drivability wise it wouldn't be a bad idea to put some new injectors in it that were made in this century, they should fit in the stock rails with the right adapters. Keep an eye on and replace the Fuel pulsation dampener as they tend to leak and cause fires. Modern day consensus is to swap it for one made by Fuel Lab, but there are alot of cars out there with no FPD running just fine.
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Old 09-27-18, 08:35 AM
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Thanks for the previous post. Funny that you mentioned those things because “if” I decide to keep the car, I really want to strip all of the unnecessary wiring from the engine compartment and simplify everything. I have a few other toys for sale and if one of them sells, I don’t mind spending some $$$ to move the car to the next level.The car was tuned by RP Performance Racing in WV and supposedly dyno-tuned and made 255 rwhp. If that’s true, that’s a nice number for a street and occasional trackday toy. 400 rwhp would be a much nicer number down the road!

For now, I need to replace the fuel pump, pinion seal, rear wheel studs due to new wheels with thicker flange and then just drive it.

Link to photobucket album: Rotus by Daniel Lipperini Jr | Photobucket
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Old 09-28-18, 09:28 AM
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Really nice car. Looks like a hoot to drive. I don't know if it's the photo or not, but it kinda freaks me out seeing an engine bay where the 13B almost looks like a tight fit.
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Old 10-01-18, 08:09 AM
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Anybody know of a contact in the PA/NJ/NY area who would be able to “de-clutter” the engine wiring on this thing? Over the winter, I’d like to simplify and get rid of any unnecessary wiring/sensors/emissions junk that isn’t necessary, reroute and possibly replace/relocate the intercooler and if necessary replace the computer. I think that 300+ hp should be fairly easy to attain with a few upgrades.

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