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Help with old school emissions removal

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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 12:19 AM
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Help with old school emissions removal

Recently saw a beautiful 74 REPU that had the cleanest engine bay I've ever seen. basically a carb, couple hoses, brake booster, dizzy, 'bout it. My 74 REPU apparently still has a bunch of stuff I could get rid of, I just have no idea what. Got no reactor or airpump, so what else could go? Also, if anyone can identify what some of these things are, I'm just curious.
Attached Thumbnails Help with old school emissions removal-repu-engine-bay-002.jpg   Help with old school emissions removal-repu-engine-bay-003.jpg   Help with old school emissions removal-repu-engine-bay-005.jpg  
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 03:22 PM
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I removed the center section of the exhaust from my Cosmo yesterday. Air pump too. Most of the rat's nest has already been removed, but some tubes still remain. A couple of them are necessary for proper PCV action.

Gonna see about removing the thermal reactor today. It looks like the intake manifold will have to come off... Joy!

Hey, when I put everything back on, it'll have a header exhaust and a 5 speed. I suppose I could mention what I install to make it run right. You could follow along while clearing the top of your engine.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 06:27 PM
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Thanks Jeff, that'll be a help.

I removed most everything last night andjust plugged the hoses, fired up fine. Do you happen to know where the PCV is on a REPU?? Also, is there a hard vent line on the cosmo coming from the fuel tank to the carb?
Not sure what to do with that...
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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IIRC all you really need is the brake booster line connected to the intake manifold and a vacuum advance for the distributor... everything else can be removed pluged or blocked off
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 08:27 PM
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you probably dont even "need" the vac advances, but it wouldn't hurt to keep'em
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 11:21 PM
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Vac advance hasn't been there since I put the 85 dizzy in, no ill effects. Do you guys think I can just get rid of the fuel tank vent..maybe just leave it open near the tank? Right now it is a hard line that goes from the tank to the engine compartment, then to a hose connecting to a port on the breather lid.
I was thinking to leave it open at the tank and put mayne one of those little bitty ricer cone filters on it, just to keep crap out of the tank.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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It's best to keep the fuel tank vent and PCV functioning. There should be a PCV valve on the manifold. Connect it with a T to the oil filler tube and gas tank vent. Connect the air cleaner charcoal canister to the nipple on the intermediate plate (it's near the nipple on the oil filler tube).
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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^werd

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/magic-socket-makes-thermal-reactor-removal-easy-133872/
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 12:50 AM
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From: REPUsville TN
Here's the engine for reference

Mike, basicaly like someone said remove everything and plug it off. This engine is a frankenstien of sorts, 81 12A plates and 85 GSL-SE housings and internals. Its common practice to build a newer 13B for some of our older rotary powered vehicles. Mine had all the emissions removed when I got it so it made it easier for me to put it back together without any.

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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 05:32 PM
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Thanks, I think I've got it for the most part, but a couple of questions:

The oil fill tube has two ports. I have the top one open (maybe plug it?), the bottom one runs to the PVC. I have the fuel tank vent run into the new RB air cleaner I just bought, but I like the 'T' idea better. Ok to plug, or leave open, the top port?

2nd of all, what is the coolant sensor on the top of the engine block for? There's a two prong plug going to it that doesn't seem to trigger any lights...maybe an emissions deal?

Thanks
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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Talking

Im tempted to post but my evil side tells me to wait til later.
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