I recently replaced the hateful thermal reactor with a Racing Bleat header and encountered the usual problem removing the thermal reactor nuts, particularly the top rear one. After much head-scratching, I came up with the solution and used a 9/16" u-jointed socket that had been ground down to be shorter as well as having a smaller outside diameter. Because the 9/16" socket is just slightly larger than the 14mm nut, the socket can go on at the angle necessary for clearance, and removal was a breeze! Here is a picture of my "magic socket".
-Mike

 

Huh, nifty. I'll keep that in mind. I put my header on while the engine was on a stand so no need for all that . Nice tip though, thanks .

~T.J.

 

No problem. I might add that if the intake manifold is removed, the nut is simple to take off with "normal" tools. -Mike

 

And how well does it work on so-rusted-it-would-strip-even-with-correct-socket bolts?
I'm looking at using a grinder for the POS I just pulled out of my parts car.

 

Good question, I don't know. If the motor is out of the car, take off the intake manifold, hose down the rusty bolt with liquid wrench, or my favorite, "knock 'er loose" (love that name!) and use a six-point 14mm socket with a healthy breaker bar and hope you don't snap the bolt.
Good luck! -Mike

 

i had a hell of a time getting mine off too. i ended up bending an s bend box end with an oxyacetlyene torch and a mallet to get that bastard off. i tried all kinds of snakey extensions and kookey cantraptions that look like yours, all to no avail .

 

Oh, boy, you guys are really making me look forward to removing this thing. Any simple prep work I could do to give me a head start? Probably won't get my header until the end of the week.

 

Ha Ha Ha, welcome to the club!
Hey, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger, right?
Hint: if you start with the top rear nut, it's all downhill from there, LOL! -Mike

 

Grrrr...All that laughter sounds somewhat ominous. On the other hand, compared to removing the TR, the installation oughta be a cinch, right? riGHT? RIGHT? Thanx Mike (Wankelguy), I went out and bought the u-joint 9/16 in dreadful anticipation. Wish me luck.

 

Try it on an RX-2. The bottom forward nut on mine was impossible to remove without making a wrench.

 

the installation is very simple. it took like 30 minutes or so, just because i had to bend the support thing thats near the rear flange of the header. so yeah it is a cinch. LOL you should go ahead and start with the top rear bolt.

 

Ominous? Me? (snicker, snicker)
Once you get the old stuff off, the rest is a breeeeeze.
Feel better, now? Good, because you may have to grind down that nice new socket like the one in my picture to make it work right. And yes, good luck to you!

P.S. Save the top piece of the thermal reactor shroud, the one with the provision for the carb pre-heater hose.
I made mine into a little intake manifold heat shield that I'll post some pictures of. -Mike