View Poll Results: Is She Worth Saving?
Keep her, it's too hard to find a clean coupe.
26
59.09%
Keep her, finding a 2dr coupe is going to be EXPENSIVE!
11
25.00%
IF you got the time/skills/and means, just fix her.
20
45.45%
Get rid of her, there are cleaner cars out there.
0
0%
Much easier to get into a 85' GSL-SE.
0
0%
Just move up to a FD3S, ton of parts still available.
1
2.27%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 44. You may not vote on this poll
On The Fence, Is She Worth Saving?
08-13-13, 08:28 AM
#26
Save it, awesome history and easily repaired rust with a little time. Leave it modified from 88' too (with a little refreshing), looks great.
As far as repairing the rust, remove everything, trim, glass, etc and carefully plan out how you can cut the bad rust out. You want to cut an additional 2" around the affected area so use a sharpie and a straight edge to outline the area. It's much easier to fabricate square pieces than rounded pieces. You can either take the cut out piece to a metal fabricator to have them bend something up similar or try it yourself. There are a lot of guides online on how to repair rust so a little reading will likely get you fired up. I would then strip/grind down all of the surrounding areas to search for any additional rust to prevent it from eating into the metal. You can get an angle grinder with a flap wheel or use a 1/4" grinder. You can get primer that converts rust into paint if it's minor and is sanded down. It's going to take some time but will definitely be worth the work when it's all done. Don't worry about getting the car 100% perfect with metal work, you can always skim coat Rage bondo up to a 1/4" to hide imperfections if they're treated and will not rust from the inside. Just remember, bondo absorbs water so it must be primed and sealed (generally two separate things) before it's allowed to get wet.
Make sure to keep the car away from rain, a sealed carport or garage would be ideal. Repairing rust and then having the car get wet is going to prolong the process.
I've seen and fixed a lot of classic cars that were significantly worse than this one. Just take it one step at a time.
Hope I've helped, I would love to see another RX-2 on the road.
As far as repairing the rust, remove everything, trim, glass, etc and carefully plan out how you can cut the bad rust out. You want to cut an additional 2" around the affected area so use a sharpie and a straight edge to outline the area. It's much easier to fabricate square pieces than rounded pieces. You can either take the cut out piece to a metal fabricator to have them bend something up similar or try it yourself. There are a lot of guides online on how to repair rust so a little reading will likely get you fired up. I would then strip/grind down all of the surrounding areas to search for any additional rust to prevent it from eating into the metal. You can get an angle grinder with a flap wheel or use a 1/4" grinder. You can get primer that converts rust into paint if it's minor and is sanded down. It's going to take some time but will definitely be worth the work when it's all done. Don't worry about getting the car 100% perfect with metal work, you can always skim coat Rage bondo up to a 1/4" to hide imperfections if they're treated and will not rust from the inside. Just remember, bondo absorbs water so it must be primed and sealed (generally two separate things) before it's allowed to get wet.
Make sure to keep the car away from rain, a sealed carport or garage would be ideal. Repairing rust and then having the car get wet is going to prolong the process.
I've seen and fixed a lot of classic cars that were significantly worse than this one. Just take it one step at a time.
Hope I've helped, I would love to see another RX-2 on the road.
08-15-13, 10:47 AM
#27
72' Rx2 Turbo
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Save it, awesome history and easily repaired rust with a little time. Leave it modified from 88' too (with a little refreshing), looks great.
As far as repairing the rust, remove everything, trim, glass, etc and carefully plan out how you can cut the bad rust out. You want to cut an additional 2" around the affected area so use a sharpie and a straight edge to outline the area. It's much easier to fabricate square pieces than rounded pieces. You can either take the cut out piece to a metal fabricator to have them bend something up similar or try it yourself. There are a lot of guides online on how to repair rust so a little reading will likely get you fired up. I would then strip/grind down all of the surrounding areas to search for any additional rust to prevent it from eating into the metal. You can get an angle grinder with a flap wheel or use a 1/4" grinder. You can get primer that converts rust into paint if it's minor and is sanded down. It's going to take some time but will definitely be worth the work when it's all done. Don't worry about getting the car 100% perfect with metal work, you can always skim coat Rage bondo up to a 1/4" to hide imperfections if they're treated and will not rust from the inside. Just remember, bondo absorbs water so it must be primed and sealed (generally two separate things) before it's allowed to get wet.
Make sure to keep the car away from rain, a sealed carport or garage would be ideal. Repairing rust and then having the car get wet is going to prolong the process.
I've seen and fixed a lot of classic cars that were significantly worse than this one. Just take it one step at a time.
Hope I've helped, I would love to see another RX-2 on the road.
As far as repairing the rust, remove everything, trim, glass, etc and carefully plan out how you can cut the bad rust out. You want to cut an additional 2" around the affected area so use a sharpie and a straight edge to outline the area. It's much easier to fabricate square pieces than rounded pieces. You can either take the cut out piece to a metal fabricator to have them bend something up similar or try it yourself. There are a lot of guides online on how to repair rust so a little reading will likely get you fired up. I would then strip/grind down all of the surrounding areas to search for any additional rust to prevent it from eating into the metal. You can get an angle grinder with a flap wheel or use a 1/4" grinder. You can get primer that converts rust into paint if it's minor and is sanded down. It's going to take some time but will definitely be worth the work when it's all done. Don't worry about getting the car 100% perfect with metal work, you can always skim coat Rage bondo up to a 1/4" to hide imperfections if they're treated and will not rust from the inside. Just remember, bondo absorbs water so it must be primed and sealed (generally two separate things) before it's allowed to get wet.
Make sure to keep the car away from rain, a sealed carport or garage would be ideal. Repairing rust and then having the car get wet is going to prolong the process.
I've seen and fixed a lot of classic cars that were significantly worse than this one. Just take it one step at a time.
Hope I've helped, I would love to see another RX-2 on the road.
I will do what I can with the little time I've got available to get this thing "band-aided". The body work is quite significant and there are a lot of wholes now... a lot of patch work to do.
Problem: My BIGGEST CONCERN was not being able to stop the rust from getting out of control! Especially, the internal side and having it attack the structural framing because it penetrated the outer body.
Solution: Quick & Dirty BUT, seems very effective so far! CORROSEAL It's referred to as a "Rust Converter" and will Convert/Seal/Prime the rusted area and it will not rust again! (this part I will find out) But, I've got to say it seems pretty good to me so far!
If there is someone out there that has 1st hand knowledge with this product or a similar product please feel free to chime in and know some knowledge.
For those who might be in a similar situation as myself:
1) I got this at my local Home Depot for about $22 bucks and tax.
How so you use it... this is the best part:
1) Scrub loose rust off surface with a Wire Brush.
2) Apply and let sit for 20-40 mins (depends on the area ) before adding another coat IF Needed.
I just got a spray bottle from Home Depot for $0.99 and filled it and sprayed in areas where I needed it and used small paint brush to spread it around.
I like it because I WILL be able to hit those areas of concern (inner structured areas ).
I will throw up some photos. Maybe I will start a new thread that this info might be more appropriate.
Anyways, right now I'm striping down the car to be able to access everything from inside and out. Even managed to take down some areas down to the metal to get ahead of the rust.
She looks like crap right now but, when I get the chance I will do it up properly and get her better than ever!
My GOAL for Now:
Basically, to save and protect Until I have the proper time and funds to throw at her. Going to be spending a lot of $... got BIG PLANS!
Again thanks guys! Good to know there is a community out there filled with good peoples!
If anyone has advice, requests, questions, let me know I will be as direct, concise and candid with my responses in hopes to helping some of yall out there ( as being down for me! ). I will try to throw up some photos to keep you posted and perhaps start a thread.
Been decided.... NOT ON THE FENCE ANYMORE! THANKS TO EVERYONE!
08-15-13, 12:44 PM
#28
POR15 is another product that will convert rust. You have to get the big stuff off first. If you can flack it, it needs to be removed before applying the rust convertor. I wire wheel on a drill works good. If it where me I'd build a pressure pot and blast the body.
08-16-13, 12:25 PM
#30
Madaz
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I'm going to go against the grain here and say it is not worth rebuilding the car.
Having owned 7 RX-2s in the last 20 years the visible areas rusted on this car will be the tip of the iceberg plus are some are structural and therefore must be fixed properly. I would like nothing more that to see another RX-2 coupe back on the road but her legacy may be donating to a less severe project.
To put this in perspective. I am currently restoring a RX-3 coupe - The rust was limited to the rocker panels and lower fenders. I wanted this car to be perfectly straight and rust free... I am currently over 13k in the hole for the body work and she is only just in primer. I am not saying this can't be fixed just saying it may not be financially viable. Even if you could do the work ( and I must say this is not a matter of patching this car as it would need to be unpicked at the seams to do a lot of the work properly ) then the cost is going to be horrendous. RX2 coupes are not that difficult to find at reasonable prices if you a prepared to look. One came up in Nova Scotia a few months back and the owner was asking $500 (Not a typo) it needed fenders and minor floor rust repair and came with an additional 12a. I am currently trying to track the guy down as he put it in storage after it didn't sell and then stopped responding to emails. If I can get hold of the guy AND don't buy it myself I will pass on the details.
Having owned 7 RX-2s in the last 20 years the visible areas rusted on this car will be the tip of the iceberg plus are some are structural and therefore must be fixed properly. I would like nothing more that to see another RX-2 coupe back on the road but her legacy may be donating to a less severe project.
To put this in perspective. I am currently restoring a RX-3 coupe - The rust was limited to the rocker panels and lower fenders. I wanted this car to be perfectly straight and rust free... I am currently over 13k in the hole for the body work and she is only just in primer. I am not saying this can't be fixed just saying it may not be financially viable. Even if you could do the work ( and I must say this is not a matter of patching this car as it would need to be unpicked at the seams to do a lot of the work properly ) then the cost is going to be horrendous. RX2 coupes are not that difficult to find at reasonable prices if you a prepared to look. One came up in Nova Scotia a few months back and the owner was asking $500 (Not a typo) it needed fenders and minor floor rust repair and came with an additional 12a. I am currently trying to track the guy down as he put it in storage after it didn't sell and then stopped responding to emails. If I can get hold of the guy AND don't buy it myself I will pass on the details.
08-17-13, 12:45 PM
#31
That's some pretty deep, flaky rust. I'm with project Rx3 here by saying look for a shell. There's one on LA craigslist now for $2000 in Fontana, which means $1200 cash in the real world! Although illegal you could swap your vin onto new shell to keep the love affair going. I've seen bare shells pop up a bit lately, although not pretty they look to be a lot more useable than yours. When rust starts traveling up the windshield frames and starts eating out the rocker areas you're up the creek without a paddle. Good luck, mate.
08-18-13, 02:10 PM
#32
72' Rx2 Turbo
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Thanks guys, I do appreciate prospective and insight.
Rust is illusive and suface rust is always the tip of the ice berg. That much I was fully prepared for and willing to do.
Doing the repairs and metal work is not a problem. Having a fabrication background as well as body shop owners for friends makes life more convenient.
MAIN GOAL - to prevent it from getting any worse before she crosses into the relm of "point of no return".
I'm due to leave the states for a while and returning to Japan so, basically on a limited timeline and wanted to buy myself a extension.
Again always good to get input from experienced people.
The most difficult challenge for myself is sheet metal forming. I look forward and am excited to get new equipment.
Always wanted to expand my hand forming skills and get shrinking/expanding & English Wheel.
This will be my excuse to get those things as well as my new hobby.
I will make a new thread...again thanks for everyone who has contributed.
Rust is illusive and suface rust is always the tip of the ice berg. That much I was fully prepared for and willing to do.
Doing the repairs and metal work is not a problem. Having a fabrication background as well as body shop owners for friends makes life more convenient.
MAIN GOAL - to prevent it from getting any worse before she crosses into the relm of "point of no return".
I'm due to leave the states for a while and returning to Japan so, basically on a limited timeline and wanted to buy myself a extension.
Again always good to get input from experienced people.
The most difficult challenge for myself is sheet metal forming. I look forward and am excited to get new equipment.
Always wanted to expand my hand forming skills and get shrinking/expanding & English Wheel.
This will be my excuse to get those things as well as my new hobby.
I will make a new thread...again thanks for everyone who has contributed.
08-20-13, 03:09 PM
#33
72' Rx2 Turbo
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Just want to say thanks again for EVERYONE'S input!
Started a new thread : https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...9#post11552049
Hope to get your valued input as I progress & maybe give some of you hope. I might be worse off than some of you guys...maybe it will inspire some of you to fix your rides sooner than later!
I know I regret not doing it earlier but, hey I'm up for the challenge!!
Doing simple paint, body, engine tweaks, too easy...this one I'm going to have to really put the skills and knowledge to the test.
When I get home I'll try to officially close this thread.
Cheers!
Started a new thread : https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...9#post11552049
Hope to get your valued input as I progress & maybe give some of you hope. I might be worse off than some of you guys...maybe it will inspire some of you to fix your rides sooner than later!
I know I regret not doing it earlier but, hey I'm up for the challenge!!
Doing simple paint, body, engine tweaks, too easy...this one I'm going to have to really put the skills and knowledge to the test.
When I get home I'll try to officially close this thread.
Cheers!
09-11-13, 08:56 PM
#34
72' Rx2 Turbo
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