bumpstart

use the auto balance mass that is already on the ex auto engine ( take off the flex plate )
use any generic aftermarket flywheel
as these are designed to balance neutral and bolt to the 6 bolt hub pattern on the auto mass balance
cheap and chrome moly will be the go ,, cheaper ones are heaviest
ring gear on these is often shrunk on ( may have a couple of weld tags )
( lighter ) ones have cheese cut near edges to lower inertia moment and sometimes lazer cut ( integral ) ring gear


avoid factory flywheels,, these need to be exacting for the engine type to rebalance the engine ( have mass inbuilt )
and need to swap via that big 54mm nut
and they are much heavier , and made from cast iron

gerald m

I found this a while back , pretty much the same thing as I am doing .. If these guys use this on aircraft it can't be to bad of a set up . ..http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&...FhQiBA&cad=rja

I am going to keep following my ideas with the 500 holley maybe make some tubes or use the UIM and build a smaller air box .. One thing is , I'm sure as hell not an engineer I have one hell of a time getting my ideas from my head to paper as soon as I start poof it's just a fart in a mitt . now where did I put that darn bud buster . Oh hey look there goes Karack's chicken again .

gerald m

Finally found a VST belt drive that should work on my bike .. I came across a thread from 05 some of the guys were talking about a VST drive well here it goes ..

It comes from a 500 Sportsman Polaris ATV and should be good up to the 200 to 250 HP range I guess depending on how much traction and so on can be achieved but with the new frame and smaller design I'm hoping for around the 350 pound range without rider so it should be pretty easy to accelerate

The thing I like about this set up is it has a overriding clutch that will lock up and brake the rear wheel on deceleration until the bike speed reaches engine idle speed or until the throttle is opened again..

Opened up both primary and secondary clutches and found just normal wear on buttons and all bushings .. I think I might need lighter weights to keep the clutch from engaging to soon and a full set of bushings for both clutches . something I might try is to put round grooves in the weights where they contact the rollers while the clutch is at idle . It should in theory hold the weight back just enough on rampup that it will pop out of the groove on acceleration and grab the belt fast instead of having the clutch closing slowly on the belt and burning it .. It seems Arctic cat have used this method with good success on some of their more powerful machines ..

The frame build is just not going to happen until I get all this stuff worked out ..once I get the pieces together then I will be able to figure the size of things and build the frame ..

chainreaction

Gerald check the PM I sent you.
The engagement rpm's are controlled by the colored primary spring, then minimally impacted by the weights you use. I tune with the clutch weights to control belt grip. With a 4-tower Micro-belmont race clutch I actually us 58g Polaris weights on two and 62 g weights on two. I also use a stock Polaris belt. With a lighter vehicle, you will probably get away with lighter total clutch weight.s You want to focus your engineering on keeping your belt as tight as you can and preventing the clutches from flexing on their mounts, especially the secondary clutch. That will equate to lower launch gearing, thus allowing your motor to rev up quicker. The secondary clutch spring tension is used to adjust shift rpm's.

chainreaction

gerald m

pictures first then my long wjnded story

gerald m

a few more just so my idea is clear

gerald m

All the work I done on the bike engine last year is now coming into play I am finding it much easier knowing what to expect from the little engine .

gerald m

Ok so the weights are 46.5 grams ( #10 WH ) stamped on weight . there is no make or name .

On the end of the E shaft there is a nice machined spot for the torque converter to fit in , I will make a shaft that fits into it then make a taper on the shaft to fit the inner end of the primary clutch drill a hole in the end of the taper and thread it for a fine thread bolt . I will make a hub with a flange that fits the 6 flywheel bolts . The machined shaft will fit snug inside the hub and be welded into place . The primary will fit on the taped stub and a bolt ran through the center of the clutch and into the tapered stub fine threads ..

The housing on the engine is the first section off the auto trans and allows the primary clutch to fit inside ,with no problems .. the hole with the bolt holes around it will need to be cut out right to the edge of the holes to allow the primary clutch to travel freely in and out .

I can see the exhaust will be a bit of a problem but I will figure something out .. The starter will stick out the side about 4 inches but should not be a problem .

Somehow I need to run a flange brg on the outside of the secondary clutch to give it support and keep the jack shaft from flexing , in turn causing the drive belt to slip ..

The Polaris ATV clutch set up has a overrunning clutch built into it EBS ( Engine Braking System ) it freewheels on acceleration and locks up on deceleration using the engine to brake the vehicle which should almost eliminate the need for a rear braking system and am thinking it will almost slow things down to fast .. another 10 pounds or more gone .

Shouldn't be long now another couple weeks and the frame project should be ready to start ..

gerald m

There you go , One 500 Polaris Sportsman CVT clutch installed on the 13b .. There is a total of 6 pieces involved to make a proper coupler that will be stable .

All pieces are machined to fit one another so the finished product will run true and be strong..

I used the stock flexplate for the starter machined two separate pieces and drilled them to bolt on the flywheel to space things out for the clutch and belt to have enough clearance , cut out the back of the spacer to give the E nut enough room , made a hub to weld the second spacer to , Made a stub shaft with a 3 degree taper to fit the Polaris CVT . drilled the tapered end and threaded with 1/2 inch fine thread 2 inches deep .. On the other end of the stub shaft I machined a flange that fits inside the E shaft where the torque converter would run ( Which will hold everything straight and make it run true ) Then welded the stub shaft into the hub at the right depth to make everything fit and bolted the hub to the flywheel ..

I removed about 1 inch from the inside of the housing hole to permit the cvt clutch to pass through ( you can see the outer flange in the pics has had the bolt holes removed .. now need one longer 1/2 inch fine thread bolt grade 8 to hold clutch to tapered stub and new longer bolts for the flywheel .

I left my bike at my buddy's for about a month covered in his shop air cleaner on choke closed tight , two coke cans with the ends cut out over the header pipes and squeezed tight . the dam mice filled one rotor with flax seed ..

A lot of picking and vacuum work to get that crap out . the flywheel would only turn about 2 inches back and forth to start and finally made a turn .. Took for ever to get all the little hulls out from under the apex seals to get compression back ( good thing they could only get to one section of the front rotor ) The up side of it being a oil seed it sure made it clean and shinny inside the engine .. It looks just like new inside .. Next year I will put up a sign for a 6 suite condo for rent with revolving doors

gerald m

few more clutch pics

gerald m

CVT mounted on flywheel , (I've done easier things ) housing cut to fit .

gerald m

finally getting to the frame work The Vermont state police had this emblem designed and made by the state inmates ( notice the pig on the back of the cow

gerald m

A few more pics

gerald m

Well things are coming along slow but sure just a bit of an update . Decided to take extra time and cut all tubing with the mill and lathe for proper fit .. Getting ready for the top section ..
ordered the change over kit for the 500 Holley so I am hoping things will work out with it .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=_TYsM3bw_Ao

Off the subject a bit .. My neighbor and myself host a Family fishing derby on the Family day long weekend .. Biggest fish was 10 pounds 11 oz. 58 fish caught in 1.5 hrs.
This year we are giving all proceeds to the Friggstad family in Outlook SK. their 9 year old son Kohl has type 4 Brain cancer and the family is having a terrible time. We are hoping that it might help them forget their problems if even for a short time .. I'm usually a bit of a hard nose but that poor little **** makes me cry..

gerald m

a few pics of the front engine mount I came up with .

There is a 1 1/8 tubing behind the engine mount that it will be welded to as well as the two ends that fit over the two frame tubes . then two braces will be welded into place from the down frame to the mount , just to help keep it from twisting . ,wherever they fit nice and look the best .. lots of room left for the oil cooler line and coolant drain plug .. It was necessary to remove all studs and use all bolts so the engine can lift straight up from the mount when being removed . The rear mount will be a little harder as there is really nothing to bolt to that has any heft to it ..

gerald m

Finally figured out a way to build the frame with no top frame tubes to be in the way .. more to come also have a mount figured for the rear exhaust side at bell housing.

gerald m

Finally got brave enough to measure from my core-plast template and cut a piece of aluminum plate for the rear left engine ,/ driven clutch mount . Drilled the main hole to fit the alignment bushing first . maybe get to the rest tomorrow
So the aluminum plate is 1/4 inch thick so I need to set the clutch housing up in the mill and cut 1/4 inch off the face where the plate fits inside so the other side fits up nice and flush where the starter mounts . There will be 4 bolts on the housing mounting the aluminum plate to the little engine and 4 bolts mounting the aluminum plate to the floor plate , so with my small HP it should be lots strong , .

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

love how things are looking. you should get some street tires and take it out for a spin when it's all done and rev on some harleys with that monster clutch/flywheel with straight pipes... time for retribution!

gerald m

Thanks Karack Coming from someone accomplished like yourself that means more than you might realize .
That is what I have been figuring I need a street tire for the burn out contests anyway so why not . One of the good things about Saskatchewan is so long as you have brakes , front and rear fenders and the proper lighting and signals there is no safety inspection for motorcycles. Exhaust could get to be a bit of an issue .
Actually there are a few guys lined up at the gates mostly harleys and a couple of smaller imports ,( I watched them pretty close last year and in all honesty the imports are going to be tuffer than the big guys ) waiting for a run against the dragon but they only know that I am building a bike for dirt racing , unless they have been following me on the forum they haven't got a hint of what is happening. The biggest add on change I saw was a motocross tire . I can hardly wait to roll it out of the trailer .
I think there should be enough room to run the exhaust pipes down under the cross shaft and then up right behind the seat and a little out on each side 2x2 inch pipes . Thanks Gerald

gerald m

Well one more aluminum brg. bracket finished front part of frame is welded up and splashed some black stuff on it just to help keep it cleaner ( that darn tubing took a lot of cleaning before welding .). need to get brg holders mounted then the cross shaft work will be finished . Please excuse the ugly rags .. Still waiting for the 500 holley kit .Starting a much small version of the air box , i think will make it from aluminum also just to keep the weight down .. The hutterites a couple towns over have a fantastic metal shop and do nice very inexpensive work so I will get them to tig it up for me . This is the first place the dragon will race . I know a lot of these guys and ride with some .. http://www.andersonvillenorth.ca/event.html

gerald m

Just cutting some 1/4 aluminum pieces for my new air box . I don't have anything else to cut this stuff so I will just use the mill and 1/8 inch bit . My new enriching kit for my 500 holley just came in from AZ. so that will be next and then the finished air box . Gerald m http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHClb1hzALA

gerald m

Using a common hole saw to cut holes in the air box pieces for the carb mount and intake manifold runners http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esd-I...2&feature=plcp

gerald m

The kit for the Holley finally came in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X98N2...2&feature=plcp

gerald m

Been a while since I started rebuilding the intake for the dragon ( I know Aaron I must think fuel injection and I am but this needs to do for now ) It should be a big improvement over the first box .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcjib...1&feature=plcp