New here... glad to find a forum with the "members currently online" more than (0)

So I got this car sorta free... Engine would run but with no compression at the rear rotor...it just made some noise and shut off.

The car sat in the desert since '92 and just BAKED. But, other than sun damage, and some general lee wheels, its basically stock and complete.

I want to get it running and driving with some decent power/mileage while upgrading to newer stuff with better parts availability.

Attachment 438060

Found a ported '85 GSL-SE block on CL... just needs all the externals to bolt on.

Needing to pass smog and wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes later I picked up this '88 gtu with a blown coolant seal.

Attachment 438061

So I should have all the pieces to the puzzle, just need to put it together right?

Total cost so far-
Car... Free ($600 to transport!)
Engine...$500
Parts car...$400

Am I crazy, and doing it all wrong? Probably. But with little time, and less money... its the only way to go right now.

Any help along the way would be appreciated...

 

Check out my buddy Aaron's 76 Cosmo build:
https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/video-log-restomodding-my-76-rx-5-cosmo-new-vid-new-vid-jul-10-2024-a-923443/
If you have any questions with this car he is the man to talk to.

 

I've been following his build closely... found this site from his webpage actually.

This is my first rotary... so why not start off with the weirdest oddball model of them all right?

 

So, I'm running into some compatibility issues on the engine.

'88 (s5?)lower intake onto '85(s3?)... everything lines up except the rectangular hole on the center iron, just below the intake ports. The later manifold doesn't cover it.

What is this hole for, and does it matter?

 

88 is the last year of S4.
It's a EGR hole that you are talking about.

I think the car would be smog exempt? Im not 100% sure about California Laws.

If you want to go the cheap way just put a carb setup on it with a header.
It came with a carb from the factory if you need to pass smog just put cats behind it.

 

Wow, ok so the LIM I'm using is an S4... my center iron has no EGR valve hole in it...so I was just gonna go without one. Will that affect my smog test? I hope not!

So If my engine is an non-EGR model, (JDM?) why is the hole there below the intake port?

It must be blocked off or it will leak exhaust correct?

 

Oh and the car would be exempt if it were '75 or older. Built it Oct. '75 but a '76.

Sucks.

 

It's not smog exempt so you could not use a header. You would need the EGR system , air pump setup with cats.

Someone with smog passing experience will most likely chime into this thread.

Do a search for passing smog test...you can cheat on the test also.

But for the cheap way I would do a carb setup. Is there a PPM allowance depending the age of the car?

 

Here is the short answer to your question ....yes it can be done with what you have but you will need to block your ACV port.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/s4-manafold-swap-complete-749845/
http://max7.rx-7.org/mods/mod-intake.htm

 

Not sure what the visual test consists of these days... If I thought I could get by with a hiding a holley under the stock air cleaner... I would be in much better shape.

The mods involved in the swap are not terribly out of my range, but might be viewed as modified. As it is I'm trying to smog an engine with no EGR valve.

Friggin' California!

 

Ok, so after giving this some thought, I realized, I may have over-thought this whole project... and welcome any of you to bash me in the head with whatever blunt object you have on your person.

The previous owner registered this cosmo in Arizona...so the tags are current.

I was planning on relocating to Idaho in Feb-Mar.

As long as the CA CHP ignores me (rotaries don't attract attention right?) for the next few months, till I move... I can take my chances with Idaho smog testing... Which I hear is a WORLD of difference compared to CA.

Holley or Weber (depending on cost)
Fuel pump/regulator
Header or maybe still use the rx7 exhaust w/cats since I have it.
Done????

 

Question regarding ignition setups for my 13b 6 port... going holley.

I have the following parts on hand:

GSL-SE dist w/ignitors

Stock cosmo coils w /resistors.

'88 s4 coil/ignitor setup.

I sold the bad engine out of the car...now I realize I should have kept the distributor?

Will an FB 12A (carb car) dist work with my cosmo soil setup?

Maybe add in a MSD Box?

Thanks for the help.

 

Use the GSL-SE distributor.
Use MSD 6AL with wastespark setup with your S4/S5 coil on leading plugs...will give you more power and will help with emissions also.
The spark is hot so you don't need the trailing plugs.

 

Where in Norcal are you? I know there was a later 76-77 Cosmo Rx-5 at the pick-n-pull in Fairfield. Dunno if its still there, or if you needed anything. Doing anything on these with a budget in mind is pretty difficult, but good luck.

fyi pick-n-pull has a search by vehicle option on their site which is really nice, it will only list a model if one of their yards has one. I found an Rx-3 in Redding this way.

 

I'm in Placerville, about 45 min east of sac.

As of today there are only rx7s.

Mine is pretty complete... just some things broken and/or sun damaged.

I'm not expecting to find parts for it anywhere, so just making the most whats here.

Engine and brakes are priority right now. I've got a rear caliper leaking, and nobody makes a rebuild kit for it. It would be nice if someone made a kit to swap s4 brakes onto the car... but why bother there are only like 50 or so of these jokers out there anymore.

 

Yeah as far as compatibility the Rx5 was kinda all by itself
Mazda used a lot of newer goofy **** on them only to raid
The parts bin when the rx7 was made. So rx5 stuff was essentially
3 or 4 years only. Someone in i think Denver is selling a 6 port swapped
Cosmo for $3000. Maybe pick that guys brain about swap etc.

 

Getting this car to pass Ca smog legit is gonna b a huge head ache for u....

 

Yup... I figured I'd be better off with F.I. All stock, cats, the whole nine.

Anybody work at the dmv???

 

a dodgy smog is only a Vietnamese smog technician away! $150 should do it

 

Regarding the eccentric shaft pulley bolt... the S4 engines have the thermal pellet setup, but the '85 13b just has a normal bolt or what?

Mine is missing. Would a bolt from an earlier 12a be the same?

Also, which water pump housings fit this '85 13b? I bought an aluminum radiator which has the cap, so I don't need the t-stat housing with the integrated cap, so which cars came with or without? Is there an advantage to running both caps?

 

Do you plan on rebuilding this motor? The reason I ask is because if this bolt is missing, you will at the very least have to remove the front cover and ensure the torrington bearings are aligned and set the endplay.

 

I bought it used. Its sitting with the everything off, up to the thrust plate. I just need all the parts on hand to set the end play. Can't set the end play without the front bolt on and torqued correct?

 

Hey all, just wanted to bump this and get some opinions as this beast is about ready to fire up.

I ended up with a few wires to the rx7 ecu that I'm not sure I need?

Heat hazard sensor?
Over top switch?
Fan sub relay?
Air bypass relay?
Port air solenoid valve?

These wires came from the front harness of the rx7, not the engine harness, so are they just going out to warning lights???

The Cosmo has its own heat hazard sensor in the trunk... just not sure if its necessary?
The car has no A/C, power steering, or sub-zero setup.

Just need to know what to keep and what to dump?

Also, the aluminum radiator has no bung for a fan switch. If I run an e-fan, is there another place suitable for the fan switch, or should I just stick with the stock fan/clutch setup?

Any help will be huge, Thanks!

 

To help you with the second part of your question regarding running a e-fan....you have some options for where you want to run the switch at.

RE-Speed sells a thermostat housing (that connects to the upper rad hose) and for a little extra they could weld a bung in for you to run your switch.

You could also use the back of the waterpump housing (like a 12a setup) if there is not a temp sensor back there already, you could just drill/ tap and fit the switch there.

There is also those kits that attatch to you radiator fins to read temp and turn on the fan although I am not really a fan of these.

Good luck...looking foward to a start up video on this thing.

 

Good luck with the build/start-up man. I just got a 76 Cosmo about 3 months ago and love it to death. I have no opinions on your build but willing to help with any thing else you may need.