sen2two

iTrader: (10)

I have a 72 Rx2 and have removed the front sway bar. I also swapped out the Rx2 strut assembly for the GSL-SE ones. I made an adapter plate so they can mount to the existing Rx2 arm. That arm is also where the original sway bar would mount, which also positions the wheels.

Since I no longer have the sway bar, the wheels have no locating point now. So i need to make a custom caster rod. Which really isn't all that difficult. But, I would like to use the stock 1st gen Rx7 caster rods and mount. I would also like to use the 1st gen arm that bolts to the bottom of the strut and connects that to the sub-frame.

I don't have a spare one handy to try this out, does anyone know if it will work?

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

Or even using the entire front sub-frame from a 1st gen. I know its a little wider, But i could cut the extra length out from the center and weld it together to shorten it.

Any ideas on this?

gsl-se and 12a 1st gens sub-frames the same?

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

The rx2 crossmember uses a fairly large stud/bolt for the inboard pivot of the control arm. The first gen arm will not bolt in place.

if you did get them mounted you will still have the length of the first gen control arm to contend with. I doubt they are the same length.

IMO, you are better off making a new tubular lower control arm that uses a first gen ball joint, has the appropriate size pivot point inboard and provisions for your strut rod. This way you can use first gen steering arms without the adapter you have currently.

-billy

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

No, they are different.

A closer match would be an RX3 cross member. It has the same size bolt for the inboard pivot as a first gen but not sure about oil pan clearance, the rx2 crossmember is the shape of a banana for a reason.

-billy

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

making a tubular one is probley the best idea. Where would one get the correct ball joint to do this? Never checked if it's a 1st gen/Mazda specific one, or a random one I can order from any parts store?

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

The ball joint mates with the steering arm via a taper. If you use FB steering arm you should use a FB ball joint. Any parts store can order one for you. Or you can use a large rod end instead of a ball joint but would need to turn a special tapered pin to connect the two.

-billy

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

I have a 2 1/8 front sway in my RX-3 which is same design as a RX-2. It is off the car at the moment. I will contact the friends @ TMC Racing in LA and see if they can copy it but If Billie wants the task, even better.

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

I have been waiting on a rx2 unit to come down from TN. Would be nice to have a rx3 to double check to as well.

Wacky, you mean 1-1/8" correct?

-billy

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

yeah, 1 1/8. there is no diffence between RX-2 and RX-3 stock front sway bar. They are identical in shape/design except the RX-2 has a thickcer front sway bar. In fact, I have it in one of my RX-3s

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

So I decided to take your (billy) input and make one myself. I am going to use a 3/4" chromoly rod end instead of a ball joint. But instead of making a tapered insert, I will mill out the tapered area on the steering arm so I can use a regular spacer/insert with a through bolt.

When it comes to mounting the caster rod (stay rod) on my custom control arm, does the angle, placement, ect. play a big effect? Or can I just place it anywhere I see fit?

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

The placement of the front pivot of a stay rod will effect the caster change in bump/droop. Stick with aprox the same relationship to inner pickup from the first gen.

-billy