1973 929/RX4 Coupe Project
07-13-16, 09:07 AM
#26
Wheels and brakes...
My brake upgrade was not as simple as I had hoped, my original plan was to run FC discs and calipers but that would have been too easy...
When I test fitted a front disc and caliper to my wheel, it was an interference fit! I have to space the disc off the wheel by about 20mm for them to clear.
I could run a 20mm spacer but not my style!
So the hunt for another option is underway, so far, Wilwood looks like the go. I also came across Aerospace brakes but to have them shipped from the US to NZ will cost a fortune!
I have been in touch with Custom Garage in Australia, Darren has been great, we are currently working on a solution for my little problem.
The other pic is a comparison of FC calipers vs. FD. Neither one wins!
When I test fitted a front disc and caliper to my wheel, it was an interference fit! I have to space the disc off the wheel by about 20mm for them to clear.
I could run a 20mm spacer but not my style!
So the hunt for another option is underway, so far, Wilwood looks like the go. I also came across Aerospace brakes but to have them shipped from the US to NZ will cost a fortune!
I have been in touch with Custom Garage in Australia, Darren has been great, we are currently working on a solution for my little problem.
The other pic is a comparison of FC calipers vs. FD. Neither one wins!
11-04-16, 01:00 AM
#29
Engine prep
Engine is now prepped and ready to be assembled, I ended up using FD irons & housings, S5 NA rotors, RX8 crank and RX8 stat gears (All new). All new Mazda seals and springs.
The rotating assembly was balanced and bearings clearanced before assembly.
Using a 12lb flywheel with ACT Extreme PP and street/strip disc.
The rotating assembly was balanced and bearings clearanced before assembly.
Using a 12lb flywheel with ACT Extreme PP and street/strip disc.
11-04-16, 01:15 AM
#30
Front Brakes
As my original plan for using FC front brakes didn't work out I had to find another option.
As I needed to retain my 4x110pcd I did not have too many options and without changing my wheels this proved to be a not so straight forward exercise...but what is when building cars!
I ended up finding a company in Australia called custom garage, Darren was able to set me up with a set of custom calliper brackets for using with Wilwoods, this was step one.
I then took my discs and hubs into a local engineering shop to have the PCD changed on the discs's and the original RX4 hubs machined down so they could fit inside the FC discs.
When I got the hubs back and re-mounted them on the car, I was not happy, there was no easy way to securing the disc to the hub and I would have needed a hub-centric spacer machined up for certification...so, I decided to order some steel hubs from MSF Racing, again in Australia.
These hubs retain the standard offset, made of steel, not cast and have the option of 4x110 or 4x114.3. They are also supplied with a hub-centric ring for use with FC discs or don't use the ring and they will work with FD discs.
As I needed to retain my 4x110pcd I did not have too many options and without changing my wheels this proved to be a not so straight forward exercise...but what is when building cars!
I ended up finding a company in Australia called custom garage, Darren was able to set me up with a set of custom calliper brackets for using with Wilwoods, this was step one.
I then took my discs and hubs into a local engineering shop to have the PCD changed on the discs's and the original RX4 hubs machined down so they could fit inside the FC discs.
When I got the hubs back and re-mounted them on the car, I was not happy, there was no easy way to securing the disc to the hub and I would have needed a hub-centric spacer machined up for certification...so, I decided to order some steel hubs from MSF Racing, again in Australia.
These hubs retain the standard offset, made of steel, not cast and have the option of 4x110 or 4x114.3. They are also supplied with a hub-centric ring for use with FC discs or don't use the ring and they will work with FD discs.
11-04-16, 01:26 AM
#31
Dummy engine and gearbox mounting
I wanted to get the engine in the car so I could make sure everything lined up and fitted correctly, this would also give me the opportunity to fit the gearbox and sort the mounting and shifter location.
The mounting was reasonably straight forward, I was able to utilise the original gearbox mount and adapt the S5 gearbox mount to it.
Shortening of the selector took a few attempts, I shortened it by just over 100mm the first time which was not enough, second time around I had to take another 45mm off it.
The picture you see of the gearbox in the car, this was the first attempt, 45mm too long.
The picture of the gearbox end-casing, you see the final location, I had to have a second locator tab welded on and the housing shimmed so the selector shaft would move smoothly.
The mounting was reasonably straight forward, I was able to utilise the original gearbox mount and adapt the S5 gearbox mount to it.
Shortening of the selector took a few attempts, I shortened it by just over 100mm the first time which was not enough, second time around I had to take another 45mm off it.
The picture you see of the gearbox in the car, this was the first attempt, 45mm too long.
The picture of the gearbox end-casing, you see the final location, I had to have a second locator tab welded on and the housing shimmed so the selector shaft would move smoothly.
03-15-17, 11:41 AM
#34
Looking very good! I'd like to see what power this thing puts out when done. Engine is fairly similar to mine, just porting and fuel injection will be different. I thought about trading my carbs for fuel injection a few times and almost pulled the trigger on a few throttle body setups in the classifieds. Keep up the good work.
04-03-17, 07:07 AM
#37
Wiring, fuel and suspension.
I have a bit of time on my hands so I thought I would do a quick update.
Have got a few things done over the last couple of months, for me, the progress is good, I am starting to see some systems being close to complete...overall, still a way to go though!
I was in debate about what to do for fueling for a ling time, I wanted something as compact as possible, I don't like to drill too many holes in the car so was reluctant to mount pumps and filters seperately...so this is my solution.
It is a Aeroflow surge-tank with an internal pump, it can accomodate dual pumps but I will only need one. To feed this tank I am using a carter LP pump. The 2 filters you can see, one is a 60 micron prefilter (Holley), the second is a 10 micron post filter (Aeromotive). This will be used to supply my 2 x ID 1300CC injectors. Am also using a Aeromotive regulator which is mounted close to the fuel rail.
The wiring harness, this took a few hours to do, this is for the ECU, all the plugs have been left off for now until it is passed through the firewall...I am contemplating a bulkhead connection which would make things cleaner and easier to remove in the future.
The struts were done through a friend of mine, they are original RX4 struts that have been shortened and the coilover platforms welded into place. These will allow me to adjust ride height without changing the spring rate.
Have got a few things done over the last couple of months, for me, the progress is good, I am starting to see some systems being close to complete...overall, still a way to go though!
I was in debate about what to do for fueling for a ling time, I wanted something as compact as possible, I don't like to drill too many holes in the car so was reluctant to mount pumps and filters seperately...so this is my solution.
It is a Aeroflow surge-tank with an internal pump, it can accomodate dual pumps but I will only need one. To feed this tank I am using a carter LP pump. The 2 filters you can see, one is a 60 micron prefilter (Holley), the second is a 10 micron post filter (Aeromotive). This will be used to supply my 2 x ID 1300CC injectors. Am also using a Aeromotive regulator which is mounted close to the fuel rail.
The wiring harness, this took a few hours to do, this is for the ECU, all the plugs have been left off for now until it is passed through the firewall...I am contemplating a bulkhead connection which would make things cleaner and easier to remove in the future.
The struts were done through a friend of mine, they are original RX4 struts that have been shortened and the coilover platforms welded into place. These will allow me to adjust ride height without changing the spring rate.
04-25-17, 11:40 AM
#38
Extractors
Today I received a picture of the extractors that I've had made for my car, the first set that were made were very sub standard, sourced from MSF racing in Australia...I was not happy
!!! The welding was terrible, and I won't even begin to talk about the flanges...
After modifying the first set I ended up using them as a welding jig for this set, went with the v-band joins also.
!!! The welding was terrible, and I won't even begin to talk about the flanges...After modifying the first set I ended up using them as a welding jig for this set, went with the v-band joins also.
08-29-17, 09:50 AM
#39
Seeing the light at the end of the tunnel
It's been a fair while since I updated this thread, I managed to get a fair amount of the 'Big' stuff done to the car while I was at home but now I'm back to work for a while, thought it time to update.
First thing I'll go through is the diff upgrade, I was lucky enough to get a hold of a Toyota Hiace diff, the axles on these things are impressive, I'll not be breaking any thats for sure!!!
Once I got ahold of the diff, the first thing I did was strip the drum brakes off it and throw them in the bin, then it was sent to a local shop for shortening.
Once I got it back , it was sand blasted and primed...then when the temperature got about 12deg C, I put some paint on it and kept it warm with a heat gun to help it cure...
The diff head is a 4.44 LSD...I'll see how thins performs on the road, I may go up to a 4.8 ratio.
For the brakes, the axles have been redrilled to 4x110, discs being used are Nissan P11, calipers used are Nissan U13
First thing I'll go through is the diff upgrade, I was lucky enough to get a hold of a Toyota Hiace diff, the axles on these things are impressive, I'll not be breaking any thats for sure!!!
Once I got ahold of the diff, the first thing I did was strip the drum brakes off it and throw them in the bin, then it was sent to a local shop for shortening.
Once I got it back , it was sand blasted and primed...then when the temperature got about 12deg C, I put some paint on it and kept it warm with a heat gun to help it cure...
The diff head is a 4.44 LSD...I'll see how thins performs on the road, I may go up to a 4.8 ratio.
For the brakes, the axles have been redrilled to 4x110, discs being used are Nissan P11, calipers used are Nissan U13
08-29-17, 09:55 AM
#40
Wilwood Bias
As I have changed both front and rear brakes, I thought it best to upgrade the bias valve, for this I used a Wilwood Bias Valve.
The lines were bent up for this first to determine the position where the valve would sit, then I designed the bracket to suit and had this cut using waterjet.
Once things were in place, it was welded and then painted black to look pretty...
The lines were bent up for this first to determine the position where the valve would sit, then I designed the bracket to suit and had this cut using waterjet.
Once things were in place, it was welded and then painted black to look pretty...
08-29-17, 10:17 AM
#41
Exhaust
Now that I have the diff in place, the next logical step for me was to get the exhaust sorted...and the plus being I get to hear the engine without wearing ear defenders!!!!
I ordered 2 resonators and a rear muffler from AdrenelinR in NZ, these guys deal with rotarys on a regular basis and being stainless, it suited me well, they were able to provide me with a set that should keep the noise within legal limits aswell.
I ordered 2 resonators and a rear muffler from AdrenelinR in NZ, these guys deal with rotarys on a regular basis and being stainless, it suited me well, they were able to provide me with a set that should keep the noise within legal limits aswell.
08-29-17, 10:23 AM
#42
Interior
Now that I had the exhaust in place, I thought I had better put some decent insulation in place to try and limit the amount of heat that is going to be conducted into the cabin.
I used the GT Mat product as it's cost vs. coverage was more to my liking when compared to Dynamat and it didn't have printing all over the mating.
On top of this, I am using a closed cell foam to again reduce heat and noise...this may not be shown in the pics...
Carpet was supplied by Knox Carpets in Australia.
I used the GT Mat product as it's cost vs. coverage was more to my liking when compared to Dynamat and it didn't have printing all over the mating.
On top of this, I am using a closed cell foam to again reduce heat and noise...this may not be shown in the pics...
Carpet was supplied by Knox Carpets in Australia.
