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13B Series 5 Porsche 914

Old 09-15-17, 08:46 AM
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It's been a while since this has been updated, so here goes.

This car hasn't gotten a lot of love since it's main man left (Hi Kyle), but I'm trying to take over (biting off more than I can chew, LETS GO!).

After the clutch and gas cables broke, the next problem was a nasty grinding/squeal when the car turned left. The rear caliper wasn't shimmed in the right spot, so it trashed (read: FULLY DESTROYED) the rotor where the two touched.



I checked the front brakes while I was in there, and found this:



These rotors bolt to the hub, and that one isn't attached. This meant that we drove the car for a bit with one of the front brakes completely detached!

After new rotors all around, I discovered we were missing all of the pins that keep the pads in; after few minutes on the lathe the pads are secure.




The next steps are to get new harnesses and get it running better and broken in.
(I already hate Microtech ECUs )

If anyone has any questions, I'm happy to oblige!
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Old 09-16-17, 11:28 AM
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Props on getting the brake system figured out! I did I very basic test. Had the car in the air, wheels turning, hit brakes and they stopped. That was good enough for me to test drive it.

If you need help with the Ecu, I can try to help. You can also reach out to microtech support. Just keep in mind that they're in Australia.

keep up the good work, Gabe!

Kyle
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Old 09-18-17, 08:33 PM
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We'll get to the ECU soon enough... (I hope)

The car was formerly air-cooled, so someone put an air duct through the center of the car to feed the engine. Since it has a radiator now, all these holes do is blast people with gravel. Formerly cool, now not cool. Also, dangerous- you can touch the accessory belts from the seats.



Process to fill holes:





This was the main reason I tore into the car this summer, but while I was curled up upside down inside (it's REALLY tight in there) I found a few more things that needed to be done properly.
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Old 10-01-17, 07:22 PM
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The seats were attached precariously, so improved mounts were in order. I copied the mounting rails added to the driver side, with some overkill 1/4" steel.


There wasn't a harness bar for the passenger since it was built as a single seater, so that went in too.


Both seats shoulders got mounted to the harness bar with more beefy tabs



Here's a pic of the welding setup, well just because
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Old 10-01-17, 07:40 PM
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And after coating everything with paint, its looks pretty good!




This meant the seats could go back in, and I could get comfortable inside. Depicted: most common position for working on this mess.

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Old 02-02-18, 10:20 PM
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people won't die now

The last step to finishing the interior (exterior, really) were harnesses. The ones in there before expired in 1987. Sooo, that meant new tabs to bolt them in, because the old ones didn't fit. Viola!


And installed: 4 total, for the lap belts. These insure that the belts are actually installed with the correct hardware, and are at better angles. Do your homework and install harnesses properly.


They look cool too. Also it's nice to know you won't die if you hit a speed bump.

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Old 02-02-18, 10:29 PM
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Now let's get to the real reason the car has been out of commission. The left radiator fan wanted to leave it's mark on the world, and chose our radiator to do so.

That mark was a quarter inch deep impression of itself unfortunately.. Catastrophic failure. Coolant everywhere...

And several months of work later: Also, the oil coolers have always leaked, so in went a shiny new leak free part. Logo tuning on point.
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Old 02-02-18, 11:18 PM
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I don't why I'm not subbed to this ..
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Old 02-25-18, 09:53 PM
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Turbo smokes (turd blows smoke?)

This is the most second most frustrating issue I have come across on this car, whenever it drove, it left an actual, full-on cloud behind it. (VapeNation?)
Below you can see the drain line coming from the turbo, and the baked on aftermath. Noe shown is how it curved upward. Needless to say, the turbo did not drain. Hence, the ridiculous smokescreen.


I found this recipe for scavenge pump installation in the deep web:
First we need a fitting: Check!


And some steel: Check!


Let that simmer for a while...


Uh oh.
Let's back up and try that step again...

That's more like it!

Add a dash (-6 in this case) of seasonings, and done!
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Old 02-25-18, 10:19 PM
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Recipe Explanation

The art you see above is actually a reservoir for the oil draining out of the turbo. It gravity feeds in to that small tank, then the scavenge pump sucks up and spits it out into the oil pan, where it belongs (not on my exhaust housing!). Actually installed, it looks like this:

Turbo to reservoir

Reservoir up to pump


And taking it nicely full circle, the blue AN line in the background of the first picture is the fitting to the oil pan. (I told you this is art)

Some technical notes: This took months to figure out and plan.
The pump is triggered by the ECU to run whenever the engine is running.
It pumps more than comes out of the tank, so there's a vent on the reservoir to let air in. A catch can is needed now, because there's a bunch of fresh air being pumped into the crankcase (rotor housing?).
The -10AN is still not large enough to flow all the oil, so even after all this, it still leaks...
You still need oil flow through the turbo after the engine is off, look up oil coking.

For the next iteration (third try), it should end up something closer to this.

Questions about this are welcome
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Old 02-25-18, 10:27 PM
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I just want to post this, because

Originally Posted by WANKfactor View Post
I don't why I'm not subbed to this ..
I think there's a button for that.

We've also been messing with the shifter and clutch, and inexplicably improved the shift pattern. Don't ask me about this one, I can't explain it.
Old:
New:

Coming up on the RX914:

I'm not an electrical engineer, but
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Old 02-26-18, 07:05 AM
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Kudos for building the oil drain setup, but I'm not sure that's your issue. Your turbo isn’t mounted any lower than most peoples’ turbos. It is more likely a crank vent issue or an actual turbo seal issue. It's tough to diagnose now that there is oil in the exhaust since it will take some time to burn off the residual oil and see any improvement. If the engine has a lot of blowby from seal clearances, it can make the smoke even worse.
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Old 02-26-18, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Shainiac View Post
Your turbo isn’t mounted any lower than most peoples’ turbos. It is more likely a crank vent issue or an actual turbo seal issue. It's tough to diagnose now that there is oil in the exhaust since it will take some time to burn off the residual oil and see any improvement. If the engine has a lot of blowby from seal clearances, it can make the smoke even worse.
Thanks for the reply, this is interesting. For some reason that never occurred to me; if my turbo isn't any different, what do other people do for oil drains? The car has done enough driving to burn out all the leftover oil, and as long as the scavenge pump is on it doesn't produce giant clouds, so I conclude the scavenge pump is working. However, it still leaks oil from the center housing at a slow rate, coating the drain system and the entire underside of the car. I'm don't think it's caused by blow-by because it's a recent rebuild. (Or are the clearances larger because it's not broken in yet?).

I know the engine is venting, whenever the scavenge pump is on, it blows light oil vapor from a vent on the oil fill port. I don't believe the innards of the engine are pressurized.

The turbo seals could be the culprit. I have not found a conclusive answer to if they are permanently damaged from running with poor oil drainage.
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Old 02-27-18, 11:27 AM
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I've always ran a 10AN drain to the front cover similar to how you have it. Have you verified that there isn't excessive shaft play on the turbo?
If I were you, I'd consider rebuilding the turbo. You can find rebuild kits online for $50-100. Rebuilding a journal bearing turbo is pretty dang easy. You just need standard hard tools, snap ring pliers, and a pick. Watch a few youtube videos and take your time.
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Old 07-29-18, 08:50 PM
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Sit down (criss cross applesauce preferably), gather 'round, it's story time!

I finally got around to editing some videos of the (lack of) progress. We start fall 2017 after the car has been sitting all summer (getting some schweet new seats, might I add). We were chasing around why it wouldn't start - I guessed the super rich tune was just dumping fuel and flooding it. I cut out a lot of cranking and temperature fuel enrichment, but to no avail. We checked three of the four ingredients of combustion (air, fuel, spark) and all were present. That left us with, uh-oh, compression.
That test did not have strong results... Considering how little the engine ran since it was rebuilt, catastrophic failure was not likely, so we pressed on. I was still hanging onto the flooding idea, so we opted for the extreme method of Unflooding a heavily flooded 2gen.

MIRACLES ARE REAL, PEOPLE. Once it was alive, we found another issue though, which is the last clip.

That was the smokescreen of oil not draining from the turbo. To fix this, I built the oil reservoir in the posts above. It still leaked (small drips), but it didn't blow smoke so we continued driving it around. That noise sure is something.

We drove it like this until the next weakest link broke. The 40+ year old 901 transmission.
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Old 07-29-18, 09:07 PM
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She done dead

That poor trans has been raced (read: abused) for a great portion of it's life, and since the rotary is right on the gearbox torque limit, we knew it was bound to happen. Witness the carnage. RIP 901.

1st/Reverse Synchro. No teeth left.


Reverse Idler and Gear. Teeth chipped and rounded (they are rounded from factory, but not this bad)



Where did the teeth go? Oh, right to the magnetic drain plug.


The car has been chilling in the bay since then, awaiting our fix. We bought a transaxle from a Cayman to replace it, but the sticking point (read: poor planning) is the starter motor placement. The rotary starter is transmission side, but the Cayman starter is engine side. Not sure where to go from here.
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