View Poll Results: Will it blow up on the dyno?
yes
11
55.00%
no
9
45.00%
Voters: 20. You may not vote on this poll
Will it blow during the dyno tune?
06-29-05, 06:27 AM
#1
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Will it blow during the dyno tune?
My 89 T2 is going under the knife soon.
I chipped a apex seal in 2003, parked the car for the winter and then it sat in the shop for 10 months getting a total make over - microtech, fuel mods, FMIC, BNR stage 3 hybrid turbo etc, etc. The re-wiring of the Hayes wiring is finally done and its Dyno tune time.
I hope this nightmare is finally over so I can drive off into the sunset, posting my 300+ hp dyno sheet.
I chipped a apex seal in 2003, parked the car for the winter and then it sat in the shop for 10 months getting a total make over - microtech, fuel mods, FMIC, BNR stage 3 hybrid turbo etc, etc. The re-wiring of the Hayes wiring is finally done and its Dyno tune time.
I hope this nightmare is finally over so I can drive off into the sunset, posting my 300+ hp dyno sheet.
06-29-05, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dr.jones63
P.S. Its being tuned by Mr. Microtech, Gary Brooks
06-29-05, 02:43 PM
#7
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The rx7store says:
"The stage 3 turbocharger upgrade for the S5 RX7 consists of a modified 60-1 compressor wheel, T04B compressor cover package with dynamic seal backing plate and dynamic sealed thrust collar. Turbine wheel is clipped to spec to decrease back pressure and help stabilize rotating assembly RPM. The Rotating assemblies are balanced and blue printed to minimize vibrations and to give you a more reliable turbocharger upgrade. The stage 3 turbocharger has a 360 thrust bearing option for the people running 15 psi or more. The wastegate is ported, and the turbine housing inlet is portmatched to the gasket. The stage 3 is capable of 340-350 RWHP at or below 15 psi on a properly modified car. The car will reach peak boost at an estimated 4K rpm."
I called the rx7store and asked if I could tune it to 15 psi boost on premium pump gas and they said it should be no problem. I figure why spend the $ on a system built for 15 psi and then run it conservative. So the plan is to run the boost up to 15 psi and see if a Hayes "bulletproof" stage 2 strootport can take it. Gary told me the car was running strong right now and is planning on having a turbo guy help since he is mostly a supercharger tuner.
"The stage 3 turbocharger upgrade for the S5 RX7 consists of a modified 60-1 compressor wheel, T04B compressor cover package with dynamic seal backing plate and dynamic sealed thrust collar. Turbine wheel is clipped to spec to decrease back pressure and help stabilize rotating assembly RPM. The Rotating assemblies are balanced and blue printed to minimize vibrations and to give you a more reliable turbocharger upgrade. The stage 3 turbocharger has a 360 thrust bearing option for the people running 15 psi or more. The wastegate is ported, and the turbine housing inlet is portmatched to the gasket. The stage 3 is capable of 340-350 RWHP at or below 15 psi on a properly modified car. The car will reach peak boost at an estimated 4K rpm."
I called the rx7store and asked if I could tune it to 15 psi boost on premium pump gas and they said it should be no problem. I figure why spend the $ on a system built for 15 psi and then run it conservative. So the plan is to run the boost up to 15 psi and see if a Hayes "bulletproof" stage 2 strootport can take it. Gary told me the car was running strong right now and is planning on having a turbo guy help since he is mostly a supercharger tuner.
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06-30-05, 12:07 PM
#11
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Good luck Don. By the way, who's going to run it on the dyno? I seem to remember a previous issue with you and dynos. Post up the numbers when it's done.
Brian
Brian
07-02-05, 06:59 AM
#12
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KABOOMSKI !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!
After thoughts, theorys, speculation & uneducated rantings:
1. I wonder if the blower at the dyno was too small. It looked small to me, and my license plate blocked 1/2 half of it? Rotarys make a ton of heat.
2. Bad rebuild using too many used parts?
3. 3-4 hrs on the dyno could have totally heat soaked the engine - read next.
4. The KNN Intake filter tore off and showed signs of melting (I inspected it right after it happened and the rubber was very soft) where it was strapped to the compressor. Should have had a TID. I told Hayes to put one on when they removed my AFM (standalone) but he convinced me I didn't need it, I've seen FD's that way. read next
5. Rubber particle from the carnage could have been sucked into the engine but it would have had to pass through the FMIC.
6. It seems the BNR stage 3 was just starting to outflow the Walbro fuel pump @ 5000 rpm . Before I try this again I will upgrade the fuel pump.
Known Issues:
1. Water temp gauge on dash not working, the MT reads off a different sensor but still the wire is missing - Has been ever since I got it back from Hayes.
2. RPM gauge on dash not working. Is this because I'm running a standalone?
3. All of this happened at 8 psi of boost. $450 Apexi ACVR Boost controller not hooked up. Need to reinstall ACVR so I can make the BIG boost/hp.
So for right now I need:
1. A TID (Turbo Inlet Duct for you n/a's) and new intake filter
2. Cosmo or Supra fuel pump
3. Heat wrapp the new TID & ducting from the FMIC to the intake elbow.
4. Get a rebuild - Bids welcome, would like to pay after the sucessfull dyno tune, with a deadline = penalty if late, bonus if it dynos greater than 350 rwhp.
I'm going to lick my wounds over the next week and figure out my path forward.
Anyone got any Ideas?
After thoughts, theorys, speculation & uneducated rantings:
1. I wonder if the blower at the dyno was too small. It looked small to me, and my license plate blocked 1/2 half of it? Rotarys make a ton of heat.
2. Bad rebuild using too many used parts?
3. 3-4 hrs on the dyno could have totally heat soaked the engine - read next.
4. The KNN Intake filter tore off and showed signs of melting (I inspected it right after it happened and the rubber was very soft) where it was strapped to the compressor. Should have had a TID. I told Hayes to put one on when they removed my AFM (standalone) but he convinced me I didn't need it, I've seen FD's that way. read next
5. Rubber particle from the carnage could have been sucked into the engine but it would have had to pass through the FMIC.
6. It seems the BNR stage 3 was just starting to outflow the Walbro fuel pump @ 5000 rpm . Before I try this again I will upgrade the fuel pump.
Known Issues:
1. Water temp gauge on dash not working, the MT reads off a different sensor but still the wire is missing - Has been ever since I got it back from Hayes.
2. RPM gauge on dash not working. Is this because I'm running a standalone?
3. All of this happened at 8 psi of boost. $450 Apexi ACVR Boost controller not hooked up. Need to reinstall ACVR so I can make the BIG boost/hp.
So for right now I need:
1. A TID (Turbo Inlet Duct for you n/a's) and new intake filter
2. Cosmo or Supra fuel pump
3. Heat wrapp the new TID & ducting from the FMIC to the intake elbow.
4. Get a rebuild - Bids welcome, would like to pay after the sucessfull dyno tune, with a deadline = penalty if late, bonus if it dynos greater than 350 rwhp.
I'm going to lick my wounds over the next week and figure out my path forward.
Anyone got any Ideas?
Last edited by dr.jones63; 07-02-05 at 07:04 AM. Reason: spelling
07-02-05, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dr.jones63
KABOOMSKI !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!
After thoughts, theorys, speculation & uneducated rantings:
1. I wonder if the blower at the dyno was too small. It looked small to me, and my license plate blocked 1/2 half of it? Rotarys make a ton of heat.
2. Bad rebuild using too many used parts?
3. 3-4 hrs on the dyno could have totally heat soaked the engine - read next.
4. The KNN Intake filter tore off and showed signs of melting (I inspected it right after it happened and the rubber was very soft) where it was strapped to the compressor. Should have had a TID. I told Hayes to put one on when they removed my AFM (standalone) but he convinced me I didn't need it, I've seen FD's that way. read next
5. Rubber particle from the carnage could have been sucked into the engine but it would have had to pass through the FMIC.
6. It seems the BNR stage 3 was just starting to outflow the Walbro fuel pump @ 5000 rpm . Before I try this again I will upgrade the fuel pump.
Known Issues:
1. Water temp gauge on dash not working, the MT reads off a different sensor but still the wire is missing - Has been ever since I got it back from Hayes.
2. RPM gauge on dash not working. Is this because I'm running a standalone?
3. All of this happened at 8 psi of boost. $450 Apexi ACVR Boost controller not hooked up. Need to reinstall ACVR so I can make the BIG boost/hp.
So for right now I need:
1. A TID (Turbo Inlet Duct for you n/a's) and new intake filter
2. Cosmo or Supra fuel pump
3. Heat wrapp the new TID & ducting from the FMIC to the intake elbow.
4. Get a rebuild - Bids welcome, would like to pay after the sucessfull dyno tune, with a deadline = penalty if late, bonus if it dynos greater than 350 rwhp.
I'm going to lick my wounds over the next week and figure out my path forward.
Anyone got any Ideas?
After thoughts, theorys, speculation & uneducated rantings:
1. I wonder if the blower at the dyno was too small. It looked small to me, and my license plate blocked 1/2 half of it? Rotarys make a ton of heat.
2. Bad rebuild using too many used parts?
3. 3-4 hrs on the dyno could have totally heat soaked the engine - read next.
4. The KNN Intake filter tore off and showed signs of melting (I inspected it right after it happened and the rubber was very soft) where it was strapped to the compressor. Should have had a TID. I told Hayes to put one on when they removed my AFM (standalone) but he convinced me I didn't need it, I've seen FD's that way. read next
5. Rubber particle from the carnage could have been sucked into the engine but it would have had to pass through the FMIC.
6. It seems the BNR stage 3 was just starting to outflow the Walbro fuel pump @ 5000 rpm . Before I try this again I will upgrade the fuel pump.
Known Issues:
1. Water temp gauge on dash not working, the MT reads off a different sensor but still the wire is missing - Has been ever since I got it back from Hayes.
2. RPM gauge on dash not working. Is this because I'm running a standalone?
3. All of this happened at 8 psi of boost. $450 Apexi ACVR Boost controller not hooked up. Need to reinstall ACVR so I can make the BIG boost/hp.
So for right now I need:
1. A TID (Turbo Inlet Duct for you n/a's) and new intake filter
2. Cosmo or Supra fuel pump
3. Heat wrapp the new TID & ducting from the FMIC to the intake elbow.
4. Get a rebuild - Bids welcome, would like to pay after the sucessfull dyno tune, with a deadline = penalty if late, bonus if it dynos greater than 350 rwhp.
I'm going to lick my wounds over the next week and figure out my path forward.
Anyone got any Ideas?
Last time I was in your shoes before getting on the Dyno my car seemed to be running fairly well, then when I got on the Dyno they said my car was only doing 40hp after completing the Dyno. On the way home the 2nd time on the Dyno a corner seal went. Isnt that caused from running the car too lean? So maybe the tuner leaned your car out a bit too much. Or Hayes just flat out built your motor with used crappy parts.
The RPM gauge on my car works after the install of the Microtech. I talked with someone on the phone last night about all this and he said they all need to be intergrated into the ECU, and that everything should work on your dash.
After spending good money at Hayes, and good money for the re-wiring from Hayes crappy job, and now needing a re-build. I would take Hayes *** to court, get your money back from them and also the money back that you had to pay to the person that just worked on your car. Also get a reciept for the work that was just done on your car.
I'll call you later with one possible option from this side of town.
07-02-05, 12:22 PM
#17
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It ain't a AE. My son drives the AE. V8 ain't an option for me or I would have got a vett or a camaro. Im sure I will blow more engines in my life time...........hopefully later.
Since I have never done a standalone before or dynotuned a car I don't feel qualified to claim work was performed wrong. Everything was being constantly monitored by 2 tuners using a Mustang dyno, a fairly new WB, and a fully programable Microtech with frequent pauses to let the car cool down. The car wasn't even boosting above 8 psi (confirmed on autometer mechanical, Microtech and Apexi ACVR). This is also going through a Greddy FMIC.
Since I have never done a standalone before or dynotuned a car I don't feel qualified to claim work was performed wrong. Everything was being constantly monitored by 2 tuners using a Mustang dyno, a fairly new WB, and a fully programable Microtech with frequent pauses to let the car cool down. The car wasn't even boosting above 8 psi (confirmed on autometer mechanical, Microtech and Apexi ACVR). This is also going through a Greddy FMIC.
07-05-05, 01:42 AM
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Hey don, Doug called me this weekend asking about your motor... Sorry to hear about it going south. Hayes sticks it to ya one more time!
You are a good sport though.
You are a good sport though.
07-05-05, 05:04 PM
#19
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Did Doug tell you how they melted the new KNN intake off the compressor? Part my fault as my walbro must have not been able to keep up, but the car does have a WB.
Im not that good of a sport btw.
Im not that good of a sport btw.
07-06-05, 01:58 AM
#20
a.k.a TheLatinHeat
Good luck with the dyno and hope this dosen't happen to you; Check out the video.
http://xfer.gofastvideo.com/gallery/...144/1/aar.mpeg
http://xfer.gofastvideo.com/gallery/...144/1/aar.mpeg
07-10-05, 06:11 PM
#21
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Sorry for all you LOSERS who voted late, after I had trouble on the dyno, but...........it appears that the rumors of my demise were greatly exagerated. WOHO!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I dont know what the issue was yet but I did a compression check on the motor and it's solid. I adjusted the Idle and it idels smooth...........wtf?
This could be premature but having blown 2 engines this one dosent act like it's blown to me. Instant trottle response, vac is a solid 16 at idle, pulls like a ****.
For you fc guys, I had the BAC still hooked up........to atmosphere, huh? so I made a block off plate and capped the coolant lines.
I still have no water temp gauge or tach.........................but I don't think its blown.
I dont know what the issue was yet but I did a compression check on the motor and it's solid. I adjusted the Idle and it idels smooth...........wtf?
This could be premature but having blown 2 engines this one dosent act like it's blown to me. Instant trottle response, vac is a solid 16 at idle, pulls like a ****.
For you fc guys, I had the BAC still hooked up........to atmosphere, huh? so I made a block off plate and capped the coolant lines.
I still have no water temp gauge or tach.........................but I don't think its blown.
Last edited by dr.jones63; 07-10-05 at 06:29 PM.
07-10-05, 08:39 PM
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Don good to hear everything might be ok. Damn!! and I was hoping to borrow your Microtech to get my car running...j/k
Should bring your car on over when my Microtech comes in or before so. I guess mine was mailed back from Austraila on the 5th. They say it can take up to 16 days. Looks like all our luck might be changing for the better. Maybe we should have a Dyno day here in the Spokane area. Good to hear that Darlenes, Allans, and your car is running.
Very happy for you Don....you deserve a break big time.
Should bring your car on over when my Microtech comes in or before so. I guess mine was mailed back from Austraila on the 5th. They say it can take up to 16 days. Looks like all our luck might be changing for the better. Maybe we should have a Dyno day here in the Spokane area. Good to hear that Darlenes, Allans, and your car is running.
Very happy for you Don....you deserve a break big time.
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