I know for fact over the whole journey of killing, rigging, rebuilding of my motor ive messed with alot of the screws and stuff.

Wondering if anyones got the knowledge and tools to properly set the idle?
Hoping someone around Tacoma/Olympia/Lakewood area. Im off tomorro if anyones available. I keep getting looks from po po's lol cause my idles rigged to ~2k


text 253-324-9206 or reply here :]

 

oh, if it matters at all. S4 Na

 

Have you adjusted the idle bleed screw on the top of the throttle body?
Set the timing properly?
Looked for vac leaks?
Do all that and usually the idle will be fine.

 

i played with the screw but it didnt do much. timing, i got the motor ported so the timing may be different? but when army of one came down after the rebuild he set the timing and said it was on spot.

as for vacuum leaks, ive got all of them connected, i dont know how to test for leaks besides spraying soapy water. The only problem i have with that method is my fan is blowing at me pretty hard.

 

Ok so what exactly does the motor do right now without it hardwired for a 2k idle? And what sort of mods are you running? We need more info to help.

 

only mods at the moment are a rb catback.
OMP is capped at the moment since the lines were broken originaly.

I know that the tps screw is not where it should be for one. Its been messed with quite a bit.

it holds idle at 15 and will drop to 11. other times it will die if the idle gets close to 800 by itself. BUT, if you barely touch the gas when it get under 1000, it will idle. Its like it doesnt get fuel at that low of rpm. i do have a flooding problem. I usually have to deflood it if i dont let it sit for a few hours.

i have a video on my phone that im currently trying to load to the computer.


Is there another method i can do to test for leaks?

 

Whoa...that is a basket case. Start with the basics.
Short the initial set connector (by the battery 2 wire female terminal green housing)
Set the TPS (lots of info online )
Recheck your timing.
un-short the set connector
Check all of your connections the AFM will seriously screw up a car if its not fully connected or leaking after the meter.
Use some propane to check for leaks (torch nozzle on a camping bottle, unlit of course) The motor will want to rev up when you pass over a leak.

 

ah ha. Figured it out....how to load the video that is.

NOw, the car was at 1500. I pulled my ebrake, and slowly let the clutch out till the RPM dropped and before the car died i barley touched the gas. That is where the video begins. Im literally like feathering te throttle holding it around 900.

What i dont understand is it stays alive just fine..IF i give that bit of gas. If i had let off the car would have fought ti stay alive for a few seconds then die. After i held it there i blipped the throttle aand let off. 1500 is where it always platues around.

Im hoping borrowing a TPS light and messing with the tps screw and the screw ontop the TB will cure my idle issues. As for the flooding, ill figure that out later after i conquer this.

 

I really need to get on the ball with this electronics stuff. I feel like a dinosaur. A velociraptor but extinct nonetheless.

 

hey, atleast your a cool dinosaur. your the tiny t-rex

 

ok so i did the tps adjustment with the multimeter and now my car idles....lumpy?

and for some reason will hold idle at 700 fine with the tps unplugged. but its real shitty without it plugged in. i think i either need a better video of it running now or youd have to see it in person.