So I got my car late January.

'93 FD, Street Port, Single Turbo, Custom Downpipe, Petit Racing Mid Pipe, Greddy Ti Exhaust...Loud as heck...

So went to get emissions in Oregon, and here they do a visual check of the undercarriage and a DB check while the emissions is down by a sniffer in the exhaust only at idle.

Minimums are:
HC: 220 @idle
CO: 1 @idle
DB: 93 @2500 rpm

So first test, as a benchmark i got these results:
HC: 4313 / 220
CO: 9.4987/ 1
DB: 107 / 93


I added a Highflow CAT ($350) (replacing the midpipe) and a butterfly pipe silencer ($225) and retested.
HC: 2585 / 220
CO: 7.4849 / 1
DB: 98 / 93


Finally I added a simple Tail Silencer ($50) and the Electric air pump mod ($150) and turned the idle down from 1300rpm to 850/900rpm
HC: 4 / 220
CO: 0.0392 / 1
DB: 91/93


WOOHOO! I had 2 gallons of denatured alcohol I was going to try next, but dang no contest

After I passed the test, the tester asked, what kind of fuel you running. I said 92 octane pump gas from the chevron across the street... LOL I sensed a strong denial of the numbers.

After 2 months, I can finally get my car registered!

~CYD

(Oregon, OR, DEQ, DMV, emissions, emission, test, pass, fail.)

 

why the hell is your idle so high to begin with?

 

Good question, no idea, it was like that when I purchased it. Though when it was at 1300, it was always steady and exact, now at the lower 850, it wiggles between 850-900. and after it's full warmed up is more around 900-915

 

Well, that gives me hope for when I try an FD project.

 

this may sound dumb, but what is HC? and damn did that drop after the air pump.

 

Hydrocarbon

 

what was your af ratio for all of these? What was your timing advance? These things contribute a lot to emissions.

 

I didn't have the laptop plugged, so not sure the timing advancing, but the AF was 11.6-12.0 range at idle.

Car is tuned for around 14psi on pump, so I would imagine the tuning is richer than normal.

~CYD

 

107dB? Holy canoli. It's a good thing you had to put that stuff on, you'd go deaf.

With a midpipe and no air pump they should have flunked you immediately for visual. But, I guess they would let you take the sniffer test anyway, just to see how bad it is...

You should lean out the idle. No matter how modded your car is, you don't need to run rich at idle, except when starting/warming up.

 

107db, What did you say? LOL

The car sits too low they couldn't get the stick mirror under the car and any angle to validate midpipe. There was no inspection for an air pump. Just an undercarriage check.

11.8/12.0, is that too rich at idle @ 800rpm warmed up?
What should it be in the greater NW where 92 octane is the best pump gas on a good day (March1st through Nov 29th)

What benefit would it serve the car to change the AFR's to 14.7~ at idle?

I know you can pop a motor just by turning the car on. Is that due to running lean at idle during ignition?

Thanks,


~CYD

 

I just passed DEQ today with my GSL-SE.

HC: 20/220
CO: 0.1138/1
Dilution: 13.4/6 (higher is better)

The noise and smoke part is just pass/no pass. Glad that is over with, so I can toss in the new engine!

 

Wrong... you obviously have never tuned a rotary engine or dont know much about the rotary. If you had ANY tuning expierence with a rotary you would know that if you want it to idle happy then about 12.0 AFR is where it likes to be.

 

haha wow net seven is posting thats rare.....

 

What did you do to get it to pass, if anything?

 

I didn't know Oregon did emission testing.....I've never had to ever do one on any vehicle.

 

what's the electric air pump mod? a hair dryer blowing directly into the cat?

 

Uh...I took off the Racing Beat long primary exhaust and re-installed the stock exhaust, cats, airpump and air control valve. Works every time.

 

They only do it in the larger metro areas. And outside the valley, they use a 20 year rule instead of the strict 1975 rule.

 

sucks to be you guys then, I knew I grew up in cow **** and sage brush for a reason.

 

im pushing over 2 years of not having it registered. I think im going to get a PO box out in the middle of nowhere and register it there.

 

uh.. crap. do they open the hood? i have an 87 FC with no smog equipmetn besides cats.
i know it'll pass the sniffer, but i dont know how strict they're visual is

 

<---- No emissions req!

 

My hood release is broken so I never lifted the hood for them, they only needed to open the hood to get an RPM reading...but they can plug into a cigarette lighter outlet...

~CYD

 

Visual inspections aren't really performed in depth. Can't really expect the emissions techs to familiarize themselves with every car's emissions components. Mine was pop the hood, shut it, plug in the cig lighter deal, and fail at idle - pass at cruise lol. No airpump or pre-cat

 

[QUOTE=CYD]
WOOHOO! I had 2 gallons of denatured alcohol I was going to try next, but dang no contest

After I passed the test, the tester asked, what kind of fuel you running. I said 92 octane pump gas from the chevron across the street... LOL I sensed a strong denial of the numbers.

QUOTE]
Why are you wasting money on 92 octane. When I got my car back from Pineapple, Rob said not to waste my money on the higher octane for it was a waste of money. It doesnt affect the rotory the same way it supposedly does in piston cars. I had a class that also claimed that the higher octane fuel wasnt working on the cars as well. It was claimed that the higher octane evaporates away between the pump and the motor. Whether or not its true you can decide on your own, however, Rob did state that the higher octane doesnt add anything to the rotory motor. You can call him up if you want to know more.